This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


7080 - looking for advice

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
dnel45 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnel45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7080 - looking for advice
    Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 7:48pm
Have an 81’ 7080, good shape, 4500 original hours.   Never been apart. Starting to think about rod bearings and main bearings. Pull oil samples every year, saying no metals in sample yet. I assume we should pull oil pan as a first step to check? I have little motor experience, anyone have a step by step guide? Is the Shop manual a good reference for rod bearings? Still our main workhorse gets about 120 hours per year.   




Edited by dnel45 - 03 Jan 2025 at 7:52pm
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 8:08pm
If the oil samples are fine, WHY would you want to open it up to do anything ??? The oil sampling is looking at things inside without doing so.
Back to Top
dnel45 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnel45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 8:12pm
Everyone says 4500-5000 hours max on 7080 rod bearings? Quite a few posts on here saying that.

Looking for opinions, I’d rather not open it up. Just wait for oil sample to show some wear?

Edited by dnel45 - 03 Jan 2025 at 8:16pm
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 8:37pm
If you use the same oil analysis service, they are like your Doctor. They will tell you when something looks questionable. Main and rod bearing life is dependent on how many gallons per hour the engine uses (load), how frequent the oil and filters are changed and the quality of the oil and lastly clean air to breathe. If you've ever been around a poor old N-6 Gleaner with worn out helical bars and the boost gauge always at 20 psi for hrs on end, the rod bearings wear out much faster.
Back to Top
Mikez View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
Points: 8613
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 8:45pm
That’s a nice looking tractor you have
Back to Top
dnel45 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnel45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 9:03pm
Thanks Dr, we are very religious on all filter and oil changes. 100-150 hours max. Annual oil samples and it’s always had A/C or Agco filters and Rotella 15w-40. Will keep an eye on samples for changes.   
Back to Top
im4racin View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Jun 2017
Location: Garrison ND
Points: 1003
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote im4racin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 9:07pm
I would be more concerned about rod bolts and damper condition
Back to Top
dnel45 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnel45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 9:32pm
Looking up info on the dampers, I’m 90% sure mine is original.   I found a thread on here discussing dampers on 8070s and replacing them with a vibratech damper for a 4-71 Detroit.   Would this be the same for the 7080?

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/front-crank-dampener-for-a-8070_topic193124_page3.html
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2025 at 10:28pm
Yes.
Back to Top
Mikez View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
Points: 8613
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 12:24am
I’m curious. 8070 and 7080 have different part numbers. What was different on the originals 
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 5:51am
Shouldn't be anything different between 7080/7580/8070/4W220/N-5 and 6 /R-5 and 6. Surely from 1974 to 1985 there could have been and probably was a p/n and vender change, but they all interchange.
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 6:01am
A true story. I met this man in 1979 when he was about 60 years old. He was meticulous with his fleet of A-C equipment. He had a 68 or 69 series 2 D-21 that had a complete  7040 engine in it. The story goes when the D-21 was about 7 or 8 years old it had 1500 or so hours on it. In his ongoing efforts to be thee best A-C tractor caretaker that ever lived, he had his local mechanic drop the oil pan to "check" the rods and main bearings. The experienced mechanic did what was requested and reused the connecting rod bolts, of which there was an update to a better bolt at that time. The tractor ran about 20 hrs and pitched a rod right out thru the side of the block. So, the moral of the story is this......if there ain't a real good reason to be concerned, why set oneself up for a POSSIBLE failure ???  especially if you aren't skilled at doing such a thing !! If there was a real reason, that's different.
Back to Top
DSeries4 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7438
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 8:50am
I have to agree with the Dr.  If it does not have a problem, why would you open it up?  Everything you are doing is keeping it healthy:  frequent oil changes, oil analyses, etc.
The engine will let you know when it has a problem.  If you are only putting on 150 hours per year, you should be good for quite a long time.
With little motor experience, I would rather let an experienced mechanic look after it should a problem arise.


Edited by DSeries4 - 04 Jan 2025 at 8:50am
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
Back to Top
NEVER green View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Location: MN.
Points: 8197
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 9:38am
  Pulled rods and mains on 8050 at 6800 hrs, looked like new except for few light scratches.

   The 8050 and 7080 came with bypass filters, makes a world of difference.
2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040   R50       
Back to Top
tbran View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Paris Tn
Points: 3482
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 2:06pm
Agree with Doc, however IF you ever pull the pan and replace brgs if the count goes up - always use the AGCO rod bolts - they are from ARP - none better. Must follow the instruction sheet for torque procedure.. 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
Back to Top
MrSnerdly View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 11 Jan 2024
Location: fairbury ne
Points: 79
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 3:08pm
No advice on the bearings but that is about as sharp of a 7080 as I've ever seen.
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8495
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 4:22pm
If you replace mains the new uppers will have slots for piston cooling from the mains. You will loose some oil pressure. I would only replace lowers if possible. The fix from the smart people is to pull crank and drive tiny steel balls in main saddle. The block is already dilled.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 04 Jan 2025 at 4:23pm
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 4:43pm
I would imagine that tractor still has the 4-ring pistons and piston cooling is thru the main bearings. Only the very last few months of 1981 did any 7000 series engine get the newer pistons and piston cooling design.   When "brass" starts rising in the oil samples, that would indicate rod/main bearings are getting thin.

Edited by DrAllis - 04 Jan 2025 at 4:50pm
Back to Top
dnel45 View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level


Joined: 13 Oct 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Points: 164
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnel45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 7:09pm
Dr- Serial number on this 7080 is 41st from the last one made. Would this have the updated pistons?
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8495
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 7:09pm
Duh, I was thinking 8070.....
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 21396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2025 at 7:37pm
You'd have to use the engine s/n and look on AGCO parts website to figure that out.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum