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rasman57 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
Points: 389
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 Posted: 07 Mar 2024 at 6:33pm |
I have made a couple different snap coupler pieces for my D-14's . A boom pole and a trailer hitch 2x2 inch receiver frame . I use the receiver to slide in a hitch obviously, but also to carry one of those 6 foot by 2 foot simple carryalls that my 25 gallon sprayer rides in. It also is handy for tools and saws etc. I did as others said and used the eye from AC SC stuff just because it was a no brainer for me.
What I did recently is add a 3point conversion to my narrow front D-14 because it is so much easier to find inexpensive 3 point implements that I can use for my non farming needs in the woodlot and around the property. Finding a used brush hog mower in 3 point was SO much easier AND cheaper than a Snap Coupler set up as you indicated.
I do enjoy building my own contraptions and they have worked well. I built my own front loader fork frame to replace my bucket when needed, and use a couple old lift truck forks on it. I drilled and bolted all the steel together and then took it to the weld shop to make it heavy duty with no worries.
The one thing to be aware of with the snap coupler and even the 3 point conversion is the arc of travel and lift height for whatever you decide to do. It is different geometry than the loader obviously and you need to take into account in your design. A carryall , level in the middle of arc travel is considerably "angled" at all the way up and down. You sure seem like the design aspect is right in your wheelhouse so material and functionality will be your costs. Too fancy and you could have paid for a 3 point conversion AND carryall. I like fabricating too so it appeals to me to DIY sometimes.
Edited by rasman57 - 07 Mar 2024 at 6:37pm
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 07 Mar 2024 at 9:04pm |
Madcow... what i was worried about is the LEVEL of the forks during raise and lower.. Your vertical arms are attached at the top to the rock shaft upper arms...
Similar to what rasman said... linkage needs to be specific length to make the forks LEVEL as you raise and lower... Length of rock shaft upper arms, to distance of vertical legs from the bail point, etc......
I made a 3 point lift with forks and made the parts out of plywood and 2 x 2... Screwed it together and used 1/4 inch bolts for pivot points ... checking how the FORKS were for "LEVEL" as it raised and lowered... Changed the lengths of upper arms, pivot point location, etc .. until i got the forks as LEVEL as possible between raise and lower.
That was the SECOND attempt, after i initially made one without thinking and the forks were dipped 10 degrees down when on the ground and 20 degrees UP when you raised it ... not good.
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MadCow
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Joined: 27 Aug 2023
Location: South Dakota
Points: 112
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 11:09am |
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Yeah. I'm almost more interested in doing the fabrication myself than in saving money or having anything "factory" looking. Although I suspect this will be cheaper.
I used SOLIDWORKS and chose the length of the trailing arms such that the #3 is perpendicular to the ground when the lifting arms are parallel to the ground. Since I don't have pallet forks yet to build around and the "drop" length on tines doesn't seem to be standard. Otherwise I would make it so the forks are perfectly level at 1" off the ground, to fit in a pallet.
Some future options with this are, again adding hydraulics and a SSQA.
Or you could add 1" holes to the trailing arm, allowing you to adjust the "level" height. Could also modify the trailing arms to have two pieces pinned together length wise at adjustable points.
I like pins more than bolts because they can be just as strong, but they don't have nuts that rust on. Anything purely in shear can use shear pins.
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rasman57
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 12:41pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
do the uprights #3 rotate with respect to the frame #1 ? .... what locks them together. |
Yes they rotate. They are "locked" together by the 1" rod (5) going through them. Putting pins and washers on the outside of #3 to hold it together. There may need to be pins on the inside to stop the beams (1) from pinching together - but I don't think I'll need them. [/QUOTE]
I probably am not seeing this as described... but the geometry of the pivot point Steve asks about with respect to "locking" them together ... Doesn't that 90 degree angle need to be a solid fixed point if your forks attach to the lifting arms? If your horizontal frame from the bail carries your load, and your perpendicular lift arms raises the frame, your last drawing with a pivot point at the frame/lift arm point seems allow for the forks/load to need a top link ?
Your initial concept drawing shows the load on the frame. The last, without forks or frame, seems to show the load being carried by the lift arms? Are the forks or plate being made "locked" by resting against that bottom round rod? I may be misunderstanding as my wife usually says.
Edited by rasman57 - 08 Mar 2024 at 12:45pm
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MadCow
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Location: South Dakota
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 3:47pm |
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The load (pallet forks, or in my case hooks attached to a water tote) hang off the 1" bars, either top or bottom. Which transfers to the uprights into the lift arms. The trailing arms stabilize it due to the cantilever on the center of mass. So the trailing arms and the lower 1" rod act as the "top link" just, on the buttom.
If the uprights were solidly fixed to the trailing arms there would be weird forces in the joint, and in the upper snap buckles as well as the lower snap hook.
I'll run some math and see if either method causes more torque in the lift arms, but at first blush I don't think there will be a difference.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 6:19pm |
The dragging/digging forks thing can be easily remedied, just get some forks offa an old backhoe FE loader, the ones that have an eye at the top, and a shaft through them, and a plate that hits the bottom, when you lift the forks up.
BOLO for something that looks like this:
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 6:42pm |
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I think your on the right track MC... The vertical links need to pivot at the bottom as you said..... again, it is the LENGTH of the upper arms compared to the vertical length PIVOT points at the bottom that will effect how much ANGLE the forks change as your raise them up... as you said, a hydraulic cylinder for PITCH could be installed, but getting the arm dimension and PIVOT POINT locations design can eliminate most of the need for that.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 6:53pm |
here is a simple drawing of a 3 point link. BLACK show the links in the lower position and RED uin the upper position.. "NORMALLY" as you raise an implement, the load angles UP SLIGHTLY.. Thats OK for a plow... but you probably want as little as possible on a set of FORKS.... You can draw it out on paper, or mock up with plywood links as a TEST to see what your going to have...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Mar 2024 at 7:23pm |
Normally a design like a RHOMBUS, which makes the upper and lower arms the same length , and the vertical arm the same length as the distance between the upper and lower arms....... will result in a LIFT that does not change angles..... You may want SOME angle to tilt the load forward as you raise.. but maybe not as much as you get with a plow or blade..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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