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2000 Ford F150 Give Me Heat! |
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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Posted: 08 Nov 2019 at 7:02pm |
I have a 2000 Ford F150 with the 5.4 motor. It has been lacking heat lately. I replaced the thermostat with a Napa 195 degree one. The coolant is at the proper level. If I rotate the temperature dial it definitely goes from cool air to somewhat warm. Any hints for what to look for next to get me some real heat? Thanks in advance, Ryan
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DougG
Orange Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 7977 |
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Back flush the heating core is the next best step
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6154 |
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Ryan, if you find what the problem/fix is please let me know. I have been chasing that problem on my '99 F150 with 5.4 for 3 years. Back flushed twice, new thermostat, new water pump, full of coolant, blend door moves as it should. The only thing I have not replaced is the heater core because I don't want to tear the entire dash out.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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I am 53 and the older I get I need my heat. My Chevy work truck will almost melt my work boots in the morning and I love it. Hopefully I can figure this Ford issue. Ryan
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Tracy Martin TN
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10576 |
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You should run engine till proper temp. Then feel both inlet and outlet to heater core. I bet one will be hot, one will be luke warm. I bet the heater core has blockage. The GM's from that era were bad to seal over. Back flush from cool hose out thru hot hose. HTH Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13611 |
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puts you in a coffee can on the seat and puts a candle in it! (poke,poke)
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 78343 |
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take the hoses off and connect a garden hose to one and point the other out in the yard. turn on the hose and see what you get.. There is still a possibility that the core is coated with calcium / whatever and will have flow, but not heat transfer.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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john(MI)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: SE MI Points: 9263 |
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Change the hoses going to the heater.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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iowallis
Silver Level Joined: 04 Jun 2017 Location: North Iowa Points: 325 |
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I would guess your heater core is plugged up. Did you happen to mix different colored antifreezes in the past? I had to add some "all makes" antifreeze to my Dakota that had the MOPAR orange when the plastic cracked by the radiator cap in the winter and couldn't get it into the shop for a few days. When I checked the coolant the next day the coolant turned sh!t brown. The mechanic said certain mixtures of different colors of antifreeze will turn to sludge in the radiator/heater core. Did a full flush on my Dakota to be safe and he replaced the antifreeze with Dex-Cool as it is easy to find if I needed to add some. If you think it might be rust other other buildup I have heard of people running Evapo-Rust in the system for a few days and it isn't quite as aggressive to the metals in the system other products. |
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fixer1958
Orange Level Joined: 13 Feb 2010 Location: kansas Points: 2435 |
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You may try blowing air through it first to see what kind of crud comes out. Both ways. If it is already weak from corrosion if will finish it off. Go easy, you will see funk coming out. flush it out with water after, both ways. Air again, close it up and see what happens. If you are sure your doors are working properly the heater core is plugged up. You should be able to tell by the temp of both heater hoses if it is plugged.
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HudCo
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3333 |
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change the heater core we have done many of them around that year style f150 you will have to remove the entire dash controls instrument panel drop the steering colum and remove the a pilar molding to take the entire assembly out the right side door the heater core is the last part in there if you follow all the steps in the sevice manual you can do it in about 6 hours alitle faster with help
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6154 |
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That is the reason I don't want to change the heater core. You have to take the whole interior apart. Well I guess I could put in a new head liner, new carpet, and have the front seats reupholstered while I am at it.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29845 |
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These nasty little machines use a vacuum motor system to open and close the water valve(if equipped), the outside and the recirc air doors, any of those go bad the system will not work very well. Have changed nearly ALL the units on my 99 F250 including the small vacuum pump on the fender(Diesel).
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21669 |
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Probably be quicker,easier and cheaper to install one of those 'diesel cab heaters', behind the seat ! $200, 15,000BTU.... I've replace the headline on my '97 due to rear slider leaking. Did the heater core in late mom's 80 stang....8 HOURS as it hd A/C, 20 minutes if it was a 'heater only' model. I'd really like them 'engineers' to replace your heater core,say here---today, snowy, windy, 22*F !!! Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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