generic ignition switch

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   Ok, so I thought my ignition switch on the 180 was responsible for some battery drain issues and decided to replace it.  My neighbor, an auctioneer who brings home boxes of miscellaneous from farm auctions that sell for a buck, had a new switch that looks just like the one I am taking off.  Thought it worth a try.  The switches are the universal ones that have a three arm star on the back with ACC, BAT, and IGN in the recesses between the arms, and the ST in the center of the star.  Box said it was rated for 32A so thought I'd try it.  Since I use the existing push button momentary for START, I was going to leave the ST on the new switch empty and just run a jumper from the push button to the IGN on the new switch.  That sound right??  The reason I'm asking is because the previous owner had the ST going to the relay (magnetic switch), via a red/white wire, that went to the manifold heater through a 10A wire.  The other terminals on the old switch seemed to go to the right places per the schematic.

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edmo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Missouri Points: 94	Post Options Post Reply Quote edmo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: generic ignition switch Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 2:20pm
	Ok, so I thought my ignition switch on the 180 was responsible for some battery drain issues and decided to replace it. My neighbor, an auctioneer who brings home boxes of miscellaneous from farm auctions that sell for a buck, had a new switch that looks just like the one I am taking off. Thought it worth a try. The switches are the universal ones that have a three arm star on the back with ACC, BAT, and IGN in the recesses between the arms, and the ST in the center of the star. Box said it was rated for 32A so thought I'd try it. Since I use the existing push button momentary for START, I was going to leave the ST on the new switch empty and just run a jumper from the push button to the IGN on the new switch. That sound right?? The reason I'm asking is because the previous owner had the ST going to the relay (magnetic switch), via a red/white wire, that went to the manifold heater through a 10A wire. The other terminals on the old switch seemed to go to the right places per the schematic.

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steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85744	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 4:23pm
	sounds good... the START terminal would not be used as you said... ALl your wanting is a ON- OFF key switch, not using the momentary START position.. You turn the key ON.. battery send power thru the IGNITION terminal to your PUSH BUTTON for cranking. DO you need a hot wire after the motor starts to run a light or oil pressure signal, etc ? That would have to be a SEPARATE wire off the IGNITION terminal ... if your ACC terminal is not HOT in the IGNITION position.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85744	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 4:27pm
	maybe something like this... Looks like ACC is hot in both positions.
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7442	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 7:39pm
	Previous owner had it right. ST position is to be used for the manifold heater relay.
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edmo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Missouri Points: 94	Post Options Post Reply Quote edmo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 11:55am
	OK, the other issue I found with the switch is that with the key in O position, my ohm meter shows continuity between all terminals except for the ACC which has not wires attached. It shows considerable resistance, but nonetheless there are no completely open circuits. I assume that is not right. BTW this is the new switch and connected exactly like the old one was.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85744	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 3:28pm
	hopefully not... In the O position, nothing is connect to nothing.. You turn the key over to the accessory position to get that... and you turn the key the other way to 1st positon for ignition and 2nd position to crank ( start)........... dont think you should see anything in the O position ? Ohm meter should work, but i would set on the bench and connect a battery ( or 12 v charger) to the bAT terminal... then take a small idiot light and touch one wire to the NEG battery terminal and the other to the IGN and see if it lights ( in positon #2)... then the ACC and see if it lights ( in position #1).. Edited by steve(ill) - 04 Oct 2021 at 3:32pm
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

edmo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Missouri Points: 94	Post Options Post Reply Quote edmo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 4:40pm
	afraid so. I didn't write down the ohm readings, but didn't get the OF reading like when I touch the meter leads together. Afraid its just from a jumbled mess of rewiring in the past. Bought some #2 welding cable and will be making a battery disconnect. At least I can use the dang tractor while I'm trying to figure it out.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85744	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 5:55pm
	OK...so not necessarily the switch... When installed on tractor, you may get some continuity thru generator , lights, etc... depending on how you are testing the INSTALLED switch. ??
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

edmo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Missouri Points: 94	Post Options Post Reply Quote edmo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 7:27am
	Thanks Steve, I see what you mean. I wouldn't know what what to make of the ohm readings anyway with the key off. I suppose one of them might suggest which circuit is draining my battery, but I'm in over my head which doesn't take much. I'll put all the connections back as they were and see what happens. If the thing starts and the wiring don't smoke, I'm good.