generator or alternator on a d14

it appears the 12v generator in my d14 isn't charging. so is it a good time to switch to an alternator or just have the generator rebuilt?  I checked the generator with a multi meter and I'm lucky to get 3 volts out of it when the tractor is revving and even that isn't consistent.  couldn't tell ya the rpms since my tach don't work. neither does the voltage gauge.

Are you sure it is a 12 volt generator.I believe all d.14 were 6 volt from the factory.

Gary

I asked the fella I bought it from and he said it was 12v, when 12v battery didn't charge when running I doubted it.  but the tag on the generator says delco 12 volt.  the positive wire goes to the points, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be 12 v negative ground

serial# dates this d14 at 1960, no band on the starter, a tag on the starter  says 12volts.

You can get a 1 wire Delco alternator off ebay for less than $60,I just put one on my Oliver
1600 Utility.Saved all the original stuff.Run the wire from the alternator to where the battery cable hooks on the starter solenoid and you're in business.If generators+voltage
regulators were better they'd of never started using alternators.

tried grounding the field terminal and got no change in the few volts it was putting out.pulley was a little loose so I tightened the belt, still no change, just a few volts and some times it is negative volts.

Actually, its totally up to the individual what he or she wants to do. You can have the Gennie rebuilt and a new VR mated to it, which obviously, if done correctly will be twice as much as upgrading to an Alternator. Gary's line is funny, but he's correct in his statement. I don't suggest one wire Alternator's for Tractors, but again, to each his own. The 3 wire version works great for Tractors because most older earlier Tractor engines aren't designed for high rpms. Most one wire Alternator internal VR's excite at 1200-1400 rpm. There are a couple out there that respond now to a little lower rpm for excitement, but there's nothing like firing up the Tractor, bringing the rpm's up to around 450 (where its easy on the engine) and the Alt is charging without reving the piss outta' the engine. A lot easier on parts to. We offer a retrofit kit for the "D" series Tractors to replace the Gennie or older "DN" series external regulated Alternators if interested. If the wiring on the Tractor has been replaced before and is in real good shape, it should work fine for you. As  Jay mentioned, we offer complete 12V conversion wiring kits also if interested. Visit our website. There's lottsa' good information on 12V systems I put on the site from the 49 years I've been doin' this stuff....
Steve@B&B

The ones I've been getting off ebay have a double pulley makes it a lot easier to get the belt to line up on different tractors.Also it starts charging as soon as the tractor fires up
at regular RPMs.

Got 57 D 14 6 volt and it quit . Took gen apart and wire going to brush went around screw wrong and when brush wore spring could not push it down on commuator.Had never been apart. Work good now no cost just a ittle time.

If you use your tractor for short runs, an alternator is better. generators are great for 'all day' use, as they slowly recharge the battery but for 10 minutes here, 15 there, kinda days...an alternator will keep the battery properly charged.
Also better if you add a winch..

BTW you should carefully look at all the wiring....after 50-60 years, it'd be a good idea to replace it. ANY corosion( blackend copper, bluish-green..) do your tractor and you a BIG favour, get new wires for her !!

Jay

Since the alternator can generally put out 2wo or 3 times the current of the generator, the main output wire going to the battery through the alternator needs to be larger as does the ammeter. Rated for 60 amps instead of 20 or 30 amps. Like 6 gauge.

Gerald J.

Automotive wiring is rated differently from NEC household wiring. For 60 AMPS my automotive chart shows either 10 or 12 AWG, depending on the length. Remember that alternators are rated in peak AMPS. A 60 AMP alternator would be expected to put out 30 AMPS continuous.

I've worked on vehicles with 100+ AMP alternators and I've never seen alternator wire heavier than #8. Look at your own car. The NEC isn't concerned one bit about the wiring in a motor vehicle. The NEC code is designed for structures safety. Wire insulation in the open air with the proper insulation will not melt nearly as readily as with multiple conductors in a conduit. If you want to be a purist, go ahead and run #6. I'm just saying that you won't find that thick of wiring on any 60 AMP alternator on a car or tractor. BTW, if you look at your battery spec sheet you'll find that a battery shouldn't be charged at greater that 20 percent of its reserve capacity. If you have a battery with a RC of 100, which is getting into big battery territory, you really shouldn't be pouring more than 20 AMPS into it.



Edited by DougS - 06 Apr 2017 at 11:23am