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Thad in AR. 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Arkansas
Points: 9653
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 Topic: gastank cleaning/muratic acid
Posted: 27 May 2012 at 1:45pm |
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I've pressurewashed, cleaned with bleach vinegar mix, pressurewashed, strapped to a cement mixer with chain and nails (the mixer spins to fast and the chains just flop side to side instead if sliding) rinsed and used acetone. I still don't feel like it's ready for red-kote. I bought some muratic acid today and I want to know if I should dilute it or use it straight and for how long? Thanks for any tips.
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Tricky Dickie
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Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Location: North Yorkshire
Points: 186
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 2:35pm |
I do not recommend using hydrochloric (muriatic) acid on a steel tank! It is intended for descaling copper plumbing and will damage your tank irreparably.
Tricky Dickie
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Coke-in-MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41979
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 2:47pm |
We used it in a dilute form of about 10 to 1 with water to prep metal for coating with dry-film resist , we used it for de-rusting many metals but not any non-ferrous metals or should say any soft metals as we also used it on tungsten sheet, molybdenum sheet, You can also use sulfuric acid to de-rust as it does not give off fumes as bad as HCL acid . Should follow with a pH neutralizer or good rinse and then use the red-kote prep material .
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Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 3:52pm |
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My experience (once with a JD A tank) was it flash rusted as soon as I rinsed it out. It might be a neutralizing agent would help. There are things you can spray on to stop the flash rust but I don't know if they would interfere with coating it.
I'm a lotta help right?
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 27 May 2012 at 3:53pm
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TimNearFortWorth
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Joined: 12 Dec 2009
Points: 2014
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 5:18pm |
Some, not all, radiator shops still clean/coat them. Had my D12 tank done a few years ago, including coating application.
Mine was fine and did not leak. Had the blasting shop carefully "hit it" and we ended up with many pinholes in the bottom floor that sure would have given me trouble not far down the road.
A GOOD radiator shop will know what they are doing and IMO, it was well worth the money.
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Glockhead SWMI
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: South West Mich
Points: 2657
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 5:24pm |
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phospharic acid is best for iron oxide I think. muratic attacks the steel.
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tractorboy
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Joined: 03 Oct 2009
Location: southern Va
Points: 474
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 5:35pm |
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Thats the good thing about red kote, it doesn't have to be perfect! Just try to get a thicker coat. I don't drain it all out right after coating, instead I keep turning the tank every 30 min, 1hr, then twice a day & in direct sunlight. after about a month the tank on my 60 f100 was rough inside, like a spray-on bedliner but is completely sealed with no problems. If you put it back too soon,you can tell by a red sediment bowel, I did this on my d10, just drained the tank and let it dry several weeks and it was fine. Keith SO Va.
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Thad in AR.
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Location: Arkansas
Points: 9653
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 6:55pm |
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I'm a believer. I made a mix 50/50 water and muratic acid and let it set for 30 minutes and then drained it in a bucket. I then rinsed it quick and then poured in a solution of baking soda and water which made 1 gallon. I did the baking soda mix 3 times then tried to drain it good then rinsed again. Next I poured in a quart of acetone and sloshed it around. I also did this 3 times and drained it well. I then tied a piece of a thick towel on a stick and poked it in the gas hole and swished it around to dry up any access acetone. I looked at it a couple hrs later with a flash light and it looks like new galvanized metal but not quite that shiny. If I knew with out a doubt it wouldn't leak I wouldn't line it. If anyone ever decides to try this make SURE you have everything you need before you start and give yourself a few hrs to get it done.
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 7:31pm |
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If you use kream instyead of red-kote. it comes with a acid etch and nutralizer. just follow the instructions and it will hold very well. last one I did was 10 years ago on my CA still a nice clean leakfree tank.
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OrangePowerFranzen
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Joined: 05 Mar 2011
Location: nashua
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Posted: 27 May 2012 at 10:04pm |
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i used muratic acid when cleaning gas tanks for the tractors ive restored, i havent had any bit of problem but i also have the tank off the tractor and the sediment bowl off, i pour a fair amount in and let it do its job for 45 minutes to a hour, rinse it with water then poor in diesel fuel, just to coat the inide of the tank, was tough this by a good friend.
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David Maddux
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Posted: 28 May 2012 at 7:12am |
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Redkote has excellent instructions on their web site. dave.
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