GaryL's Model B Build Thread - Take a Peek

I guess it is good to be safe but my tractors are never left in gear on level ground. Them things are really heavy and in my experience they don't roll well when I need to get that last little bit to drop a pin in. I grew up with the theory leave a car in gear but a tractor you slip it in neutral when you shut it off and wait a bit to see if it rolls at all if it doesn't it won't.   There are about 3 places here they can trick you cause it is cement that isn't level but on dirt they just sink in enough to not roll. I bet there isn't a 1 of my 5 tractors in gear. Honestly the bigger risk is someone walking up and turning the key while one the ground standing in front of the rear tire. I get the not wanting it to roll away. Just be safe I have know people who where long time farmers who ran their foot over that way. Wasn't a pretty site even after the fact left me paranoid.

littlemarv wrote: Back on the first page someone said to buy a C and put the B rear end on it to make a handier mowing tractor. Why?

Narrow front turns quicker, narrow rears make it easier to mow right up next to items.
David from jax

Edited by sandman2234 - 22 May 2016 at 8:45pm

while you're at it, check to see if you can get the clutch to pop all the way over and upside down..  MAKE SURE IT'S NOT RUNNING. then push on the clutch till it goes all the way over, past the stop. If it does, FIX IT!  I had one do that while I was pulling another B off the trailer. 

take a careful look at the clutch pedal. Press it forward. Then MASH it forward further. Will it go past the stop? Mine did. If it goes past the stop, it can then pop over and underneath. Kapische?  What I found that caused this was the rod that goes thru the torque tube sideways that the bottom of the pedal attaches to and pivots was worn and allowing it to bypass the stop. Nearly bit me. 

Gary,
Some of us older folks get a lot more cautious with age.
You got the points on safety. All that being said these tractors start real quick and easy. You should love it! Enjoy your time off!
 Regards,
 Chris

Gary,
 Looks like a great project for the "B"! Lots of rust there. I would recommend getting it sandblasted and then go from there. If you have all the parts that is a big plus.
Regards,
 Chris

Sugarmaker wrote: Gary,  Looks like a great project for the "B"! Lots of rust there. I would recommend getting it sandblasted and then go from there. If you have all the parts that is a big plus. Regards,  Chris

That's probably a good idea.  I was giving it a once over yesterday and noticed a few of the grease fittings were rusted.  IIRC, Kyle stated the tractor had been sitting for a long time, so a complete teardown of the mower is probably a good idea.  I'd rather do it once and cry once but will be satisfied knowing it was done right the first time.

Unit3 wrote: Woods 503. Great mower. Got one under our "C". Under the tin there is an idler pulley arm on a spring. Drill, tap, and put a grease fitting in it.

Thanks for that information and the advice regarding the grease fitting

CTuckerNWIL wrote: It's a Woods L503 , a left handed rotation mower a Woods 503 is right hand. Blades are left handed and spindle has left handed thread to hold the blade on.

I was looking up information on Woods mowers and noticed a reference to left handed threads.  There is a dealer in my area; however, I'm looking for some web sources where I can find parts. 

Gary,
You'd be surprised how much play you can remove with the adjuster screw at the back of the box.  Give it a go.
Steve

Hubnut wrote: Gary, You'd be surprised how much play you can remove with the adjuster screw at the back of the box.  Give it a go. Steve

The pictures he posted, show a B rear with the single nut holding the wheel hub on, with C wheel centers bolted on as weights. I would guess somebody put a C tranny in it if it has a C tractor number. Unless somebody changed the axles out somehow, I would think it has B final drives.

OK, I figured out how to dismantle this.  I had no idea the steering shaft didn't break at the worm gear.

Edited by GaryL - 23 Jul 2016 at 4:54pm

What I do is drill out the pin, and replace it with one from Tracy martin, or buy one from John Deere for a John Deere M, they are replaceable in that tractor and are the exact same profile as the wore out one in the B Allis.
Also Steiner has one from China for about $100 for the whole lever shaft.
Your neighbor could make one but he wouldn't know the profile etc without a good one to look at, and it needs to be hard material.
The seal # is CR 9838

Gary I'll look for pics from when I rebuilt mine. It was a few years back and my memory isn't keeping up. I should have pics of the whole process if I can find them. I'll also look in the shop and see what parts I may have hanging on the wall. I have a good C box bu I don't think I have a complete box for a B.

Gary, I didn't replace the pin on mine. I lucked in to a NOS shaft from a friend, Tracy Martin on the forum makes new pins and could probably tell you how it's done. I've been looking for pics and haven't found them yet. I wish I could remember what I did for the bearing at the bottom. I'll keep looking for the pics. Keep this bumped or start a thread on the steering box and others will also be able to help with parts and advice.