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SaltCreekValley 
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Joined: 16 Jul 2018
Location: Kansas
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 Topic: G Diesel Conversion
Posted: 16 Jul 2018 at 5:37pm |
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I know this has been on here before, just wondering if anyone has additional info on doing this? We have 2 Gs one we just overhauled and it runs great the other needs a new power unit and I really like the idea of going diesel. I know Kubota's D 902 is talked about, I'm a fair shade tree mechanic, not sure if this is something I should attempt on my own.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 16 Jul 2018 at 6:06pm |
I was going to put one of them Chinese clones of a 10HP diesel in my last G, even made the adapter plate but ,well, other things came up. I wouldn't want to overpower the G though. heard of guys chewing off the splines of the axles. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 16 Jul 2018 at 6:11pm |
Welcome to the forum. There have been several engines used, I remember somebody out in MO was written up years ago, in Farm Show Magazine...
Here's a link to someone who uses isuzu reefer engines:
You might find several more articles, in Farm Show, throughout the years, depending on how you word the search...  |
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Dusty MI
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Posted: 16 Jul 2018 at 7:44pm |
About 20 or so years I bought a G at an auction sale. I was plowing with it and after a couple of hours it stopped moving. The PTO and hydraulics were working, put it would not move. I got towed home, and when took it apart I found a broken axel. I was not twisted but shattered like it had worked hardened.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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farmtoybuilder
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 12:16pm |
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A Kubota D950 would be a great engine for it also.
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5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 12:58pm |
 SaltCreekValley wrote:
I know this has been on here before, just wondering if anyone has additional info on doing this? We have 2 Gs one we just overhauled and it runs great the other needs a new power unit and I really like the idea of going diesel. I know Kubota's D 902 is talked about, I'm a fair shade tree mechanic, not sure if this is something I should attempt on my own. |
There was a company floating around on the internet a couple of years ago that was selling reworked G's with diesel engines. They gave a choice of 1) Buying a complete unit from them; 2) Having them install the engine in your unit; 3) Taking your tractor in trade on one of their available reworked units. Hold onto your pants because it seemed the cost was up near $5000.
Edited by DougS - 17 Jul 2018 at 12:58pm
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 2:22pm |
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If they were known for breaking axles with the gas engine how does ya think it will do with the high torque of a diesel?
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HoughMade
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 2:38pm |
Lonn wrote:
If they were known for breaking axles with the gas engine how does ya think it will do with the high torque of a diesel?
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That would be a concern of mine. The high torque and some people are talking about engines over 20hp, double the original or more. With a more extensive rework than a simple engine swap, these would be interesting.
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1951 B
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 2:48pm |
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I looked into the HP issue(took me 3 months of digging.before I made my plan) and frankly WHY put on a 20HP engine( gas or diesel) ? You're going to get into trouble. That's not an 'if' but a 'when'. Would you really put a 600HP engine in a car that had a 300HP engine in it and NOT change out 100% of the driveline( clutch,tranny,ujoints,diff,axles, etc....) ??
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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bradley6874
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 3:11pm |
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If I was going to do a diesel swap I would also convet it to hydrostatic drive for true speed control
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 3:42pm |
bradley6874 wrote:
If I was going to do a diesel swap I would also convet it to hydrostatic drive for true speed control |
Basically thats what my HINES H-1600 is hydrastatic drive 16HP engine,independent
hydraulic lift 3 point hitches front and center.AC G Series IV.Plus its real easy to get on and off a real BIG improvement over a G.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 4:05pm |
Think about it, they had factory conversions putting either a straight 6 or V-8 in the Ford N series, (the main point of which was to be able to pull a 3 bottom plow in all soils, rather than just 2) This bumped them from about 38 hp to 95 hp with 200 lb/ft torque with the inline 6, and ~100 hp with the V-8. They sold about 5,000 of the 6 cylinders and a few hundred of the V-8s, so it must have worked pretty well.
Sure, if you just pull the guts out you will shell the transmission or rear end in a split second. However, use it right and be aware of your limits and I don't think you will have any problems. I know 2 guys who had Funk 8Ns back in the day, and they used them day in and day out without a problem.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 4:07pm |
bradley6874 wrote:
If I was going to do a diesel swap I would also convet it to hydrostatic drive for true speed control |
If we're going this far, why not sell the G and just get a Tuff-Bilt or Oggun tractor? Far less work.
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Walker
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 4:57pm |
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Id be leaning toward a 10 or 12 hp Kohler air cooled if it was me but it aint me. If for some reason it didn't work out then start sifting for diesels.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 7:12pm |
Hay Creston... If you pull the axles out of a G and an 8N and compare, you'll see why the Ford won't sheer off when you double the HP, with the G it's only a matter of time.
As for gas vs. diesel, I seem to recall the 'offshore 10HP diesel' I was looking at had a low RPM ( maybe 1800-2200) while the gasser(like most ) was 3600 RPM. If you want to stay gas, repair the original, I know you can buy sleeves for them and pay a machine shop to install.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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cabinhollow
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 8:20pm |
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I would go DC and put a solar panel on top.
I think Farm Show have one a few years back that was setup like that.
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 8:25pm |
Gary Burnett wrote:
Basically thats what my HINES H-1600 is hydrastatic drive 16HP engine, independent hydraulic lift 3 point hitches front and center.AC G Series IV.Plus its real easy to get on and off a real BIG improvement over a G.
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They apparently don't build the Hines anymore. Looking at their web site it appears that they might custom build one for you, probably with surplus parts. I wouldn't buy the Oggun. It looks like they want to produce that one in the Ukraine. Tuff-Built looks like a good one, but expect to pay between $13,000 and maybe close to $20,000 depending on how you want to gussy it up. At least Tuff-Built has implements available. They ain't cheap either.
Edited by DougS - 17 Jul 2018 at 8:26pm
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 10:10pm |
Been a long time since they built AC G tractors too but people still buy them.I paid around $1000 for my H-1600 plus a parts tractor and some equipment can't put any kind of motor on a G for that$$$.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 17 Jul 2018 at 10:11pm |
jaybmiller wrote:
Hay Creston... If you pull the axles out of a G and an 8N and compare, you'll see why the Ford won't sheer off when you double the HP, with the G it's only a matter of time. |
That's a good point. I've never had my G apart, but from what you say they must be pretty small diameter? I know on the 8N they are about 2" (5 cm) in diameter. I remember when I had each side out a few years ago for axle seal replacement, they were a lot heavier than I thought they'd be!
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Stan R
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 1:17pm |
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axle dia. I think:
G 1.58"
8N 2.375"
Edited by Stan R - 18 Jul 2018 at 1:18pm
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R.W
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 2:11pm |
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Aren't B, C, CA axles the same diameter as a G? and nearly the same length? What makes a G axle so brittle?
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 6:10pm |
I'm wondering about the size of the splines and how much contact area there is between the axle and the gears ? That's importane as well as the following.. 1)Unlike a PTO shaft, axles go forward and reverse, so more overall wear creating a gap between the splines of the two mating parts, ANY 'gap' will allow for the spline to break off. Any gap over 1/2 though is too much in my book, wonder what they were when new?
remember guys this is a TEN HP tractor designed ( I assume) for MARKET GARDENING not doing 50 rolling acres of clay/stone/gumbo.
2) how the tractor is used. we've all seen the 'mods' to the front end of G tractors, showing they get abused so it's not unreasonable to assume the owner will try to make the poor little G do what a big tractor can do. hmm, get stuck, pop the clutch 20 times to get going again...that ain't nice on the drive trailn and the weakest link tend to break.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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MikeinMadisonCo.
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Location: Southern Iowa
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Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 12:55pm |
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I have found our original Terra Tiger trailer, and may be able to talk him out of it. What is a used trailer worth these days? Thanks Mike.
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If the horse dies....get off!
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eodcoduto
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Posted: 24 Dec 2022 at 10:04pm |
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Lots of good info on here! I love repowers, and the hp usually isn’t the issue its when you try to put that machine in a situation beyond it’s intended purpose then parts start braking. I’m looking for a G to use on a market garden and sickle bar some creek beds, a 20hp engine would do that without being taxed and is probably easier to start and uses less fuel.
Edited by eodcoduto - 24 Dec 2022 at 10:05pm
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TramwayGuy
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Posted: 24 Dec 2022 at 10:33pm |
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“Aren't B, C, CA axles the same diameter as a G? and nearly the same length? What makes a G axle so brittle?”
On the B, C, and CA, there are final drive reduction gearboxes on each axle. On the G, the reduction gears are between the engine and transmission, and the axles have no reduction, consequently they can be overtorqued with not very much more engine power.
The basic transmission is the same as B and C, except for the low ‘creeper’ gear which is outside the transmission case.
One could add reduction gears from a B and increase the engine speed to gain more power.
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phabib
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Posted: 30 Dec 2022 at 11:20am |
I would think the diesel would be a better choice than a gas engine to keep the RPM in the right range. I wouldn't worry about the fuel use though. Even if you got double the efficiency, you'd be saving a couple of bucks an hour in operating costs and that would take you years to recoup.
I posted somewhere else about converting a G to electric. I expect that will be a simpler job since I won't need to worry about things like input shaft length, supporting the shaft in the engine's flywheel, getting the clutch to work right, or any of the other stuff at the engine/transmission interface.
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