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drobCA 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2017
Location: Perris, CA
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 Topic: fuel line
Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 1:12am |
what's the best tubing material for making new fuel lines? steel/copper/aluminum is there one to avoid?
copper seems easiest to work with... but is it?
Edited by drobCA - 13 Mar 2018 at 1:14am
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3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.
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BEK
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Joined: 05 Nov 2017
Location: Wilmington, NC
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 5:27am |
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Copper works well for me. I have copper fuel lines on both my B and WC. No leaks, pliable, and corrosion is minimal.
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Gary Burnett
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Location: Virginia
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 5:41am |
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Rubber
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DougS
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 5:47am |
 Gary Burnett wrote:
Rubber |
Be sure it is rated for gasoline. Not all rubber tubing is alike.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 7:54am |
DougS wrote:
Gary Burnett wrote:
Rubber |
Be sure it is rated for gasoline. Not all rubber tubing is alike.
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I buy rubber fuel line by the roll from local Federated Auto parts store never had a problem with it gas or diesel,if i want a solid line I use brake lines.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:06am |
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I used marine fuel line on my D15 and it has worked great so far. Works good on small engines also. It is a gray colored flexible hose, EPA approved. Check with a local marine dealer and see what they have.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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1939Dodge
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 12:14pm |
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Copper
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 1:44pm |
If you want your tractor to look original, steel is the way to go. I have used brake lines....a little tough to bend without a bending tool but it can be done using the grooves of v-belt pulleys. Copper works easy but I think it is more prone to vibration cracks which is probably not a problem if the tractor is not worked in the field day in and day out. Rubber is probably the simplest but won't look original. If the tractor originally had a sediment bowl, use it and don't add one of those in-line filters.......to me, they don't look so good. If you maintain a sediment bowl, it works great for removing sediment and small amounts of water as well. JMHO
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PaulB
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 3:52pm |
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As you asking for opinions; I think copper would be about the worst chioce due to the problem of vibration cracking at a flare. OEM on the older Allis tractors was steel with “Imperial Eastman” compression fittings. Quality rubber fuel line would be a next best choice.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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DSeries4
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 4:21pm |
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I bend steel ones with a set of benders. I just get a length of steel brake line from Napa and bend them the way I want. I don't like copper.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 11:07pm |
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We offer a steel replacement line with new fittings if interested. Drop by our website and check it out...
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ErikR
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Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 11:20pm |
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I've got to agree with the others. I think a proper steel line, run behind the air cleaner of a B, C, CA... looks much nicer than a chunk of rubber hose with an in-line filter in it. Especially when the owner runs the line around the outside of the air cleaner.. :(
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1950 B
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dt1050
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 6:53am |
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to me it depends on what your doing. if your looking to keep the orginal look of the machine, then steel is the way to go. my equipment is for work and not show, so I just use "FUEL" rated rubber hose, cheap and easy to replace. I keep it in stock in the garage and usually have a piece in the tool box of the tractor in case I'm in the upper pasture and need a quick repair.
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Just cause it's orange don't make it a tractor, there's only one..Allis Chalmers
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john(MI)
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 12:57pm |
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Yep, used steel brake line and it bent easy and looks good. You just need to figure the radius of your bend and then work it slowly. Move a little at a time to make the bend. Or you can buy a bending tool and do it that way. A nice flaring tool kit goes a long way as well.
I guess if you're in a hurry, rubber would be your best choice, but you still need to get fittings that will accept rubber line.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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drobCA
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 1:28pm |
harbor freight has a "flaring kit" that also includes 3 bending tools (flex tubes) and a tubing cutter for less than a third of the same stuff sold separately at Home Depot. I will check it out tomorrow and likely give it a try same afternoon. from the pictures the tools look identical.
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3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.
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Gary Burnett
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 3:00pm |
ErikR wrote:
I've got to agree with the others. I think a proper steel line, run behind the air cleaner of a B, C, CA... looks much nicer than a chunk of rubber hose with an in-line filter in it. Especially when the owner runs the line around the outside of the air cleaner.. :( |
Having a steel line against the engine block on a very hot day with ethanol gas is not a good combination.
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HoughMade
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 3:25pm |
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Flaring is preferred, but brass compression sleeves available at any hardware store work fine on non-flared steel lines, assuming you have the right fittings at the sediment bowl and carb....also available at any hardware store.
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1951 B
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Bull
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 3:26pm |
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I have the bending tools from HF, they work well.
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WD45 Diesel, RC,CA,IB, B, G, 616, Early B-10, D-10, Terra Tiger, 95G spreader, SC blade
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 4:01pm |
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Copper nickel brake line will work well for you. Bit easier to work with than steel so easy to get it looking good.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 9:08pm |
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The Pittsburgh Tubing Bender for 1/8" to 1/4" tubing from Harbor Freight is made for bending fuel line tubing. Item 94571. I have one, but haven't put it to use yet. The grooves measure a maximum of 1/4" so its for 1/4" outside diameter tubing. They might have a larger sized one or two.
Gerald J.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 10:32am |
The thing you havta' watch about rubber hose, is as the hose ages, minute pieces of the hose breaks off and travels down to the Carburetor where it can cause everything from hanging up the floats, to jammin' up the idle circuit. Inline filter or not, you still have a section of hose from the other side of the filter to the Carburetor. I've seen it many times when rebuilding customer Carbs. And, with todays rubber hose, like anything else we purchase, it isn't like it used to be! It doesn't have to be real "old" to start failing. Sometimes it'll look like poppy seeds in the bottom of the fuel bowl. When I come across this, I'll e-mail or call the customer and tell them to get rid of that rubber hose! There's usually silence at the other end, and then "how do you know I have a rubber line on my tractor"?....  Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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drobCA
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Posted: 15 Mar 2018 at 12:22pm |
hmmm. sounds like that disintegration effect could be causing problems in some old small garden tractors here. definitely worth investigating. yet another "thanks again" to Steve in NJ for sage advice and the info behind it.
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3 Ford 8N's I loan to neighbors, but the '52CA, '41B and little B1 I do not.
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PaulB
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 11:33am |
Here is a picture for the "Correct Police" of the "imperial Eastman" fittings that Allis Chalmers used on the fuel lings of their early tractors. I know these were on most of the early letter tractors and I can't say when the style changed away from this. The ferrule is part of the nut and at the proper torque it will break from the nut and clamp to the tube leaving a swivel.
Edited by PaulB - 17 Mar 2018 at 11:33am
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 3:24pm |
PaulB wrote:
Here is a picture for the "Correct Police" of the "imperial Eastman" fittings that Allis Chalmers used on the fuel lings of their early tractors. I know these were on most of the early letter tractors and I can't say when the style changed away from this. The ferrule is part of the nut and at the proper torque it will break from the nut and clamp to the tube leaving a swivel.
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Very interesting, I learned something today! I always thought they were just a compression fitting, now I know they are a little different. Now I did a brief google search, and it seems that "Imperial Eastman" is the company name, correct? What would this type of fitting actually be called? And where (if at all) can they be found today? Are those the part numbers from Imperial Eastman? Trying to learn a bit more about this for future reference, thanks.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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ac45dave
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 3:47pm |
These were also used on Farmalls and others as well.they're also called break away ferrules.Available through steiner and other places I would imagine. 
Edited by ac45dave - 17 Mar 2018 at 3:48pm
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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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PaulB
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 4:46pm |
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Those are Allis Chalmers part numbers in the picture I posted. I do think the "imperial Eastman" company is no longer in business. What I have in my stock may be all that is left in existence. I was looking for something similar in a different size awhile back for the Cummins in my pick up and I was only able to find a very similar fitting is now available from MSC as a high pressure fitting.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Amos
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 8:14pm |
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We use nichol at the repair shop I work at sometimes, very flexible, lasts forever and almost impossible to kink, only pennies more per foot than the standard coated brake/fuel lines.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 8:43pm |
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Imperial Eastman is no longer in business. Parker/Hannifin bought out Imperial. Used to use Imperial for making hydraulic hose assy's. at work for our Bucket Trucks and Digger Derricks. Like I mentioned in the earlier post, products aren't the way they used to be. I noticed these new Parker fittings corrode very easily once out in Mother Nature. Something that didn't happen before they went over seas. Bummer!
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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CrestonM
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Posted: 17 Mar 2018 at 9:24pm |
Really interesting on those fittings! Guess there were all kinds of ideas that worked back then! I learned via experience Chevrolet used something like that on the valve rocker oil lines on their 216/early 235 engines. The oil line has a fitting that, when slipped over the line and tightened, bottoms out in the hole, and collapses in on itself, making a seal around the line. I found some of those at McMaster-Carr, so I ordered a couple to have on hand. (Really it was just in case I screwed up installing the first one and needed the extras!)
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