Fuel economy G-226 engines

Exactly! Sure wish all of the engine overhaul/piston kits would list compression ratio... Makes a huge difference. I'm worried whatever kit I put in my WD might drop it slightly below factory.

Yes, quite an AC Legacy for the G226 - D17,One-Seventy,170,175,One-Eighty,SP-100,Gleaner E,EIII, stationary power units, forklifts, cotton pickers,... any other applications?

Are those kits still available from Agco? Or other sources?

Edited by Ed (Ont) - 16 May 2020 at 9:01am

AC7060IL wrote: Yes, quite an AC Legacy for the G226 - D17,One-Seventy,170,175,One-Eighty,SP-100,Gleaner E,EIII, stationary power units, forklifts, cotton pickers,... any other applications?

Edited by AllisFreak MN - 16 May 2020 at 11:53am

Been searching online for about a month to see what is available in kits for my D17 gas tractor. Reliance 915144. 4 inch bore. 8.25:1 CR expensive kit. About $1600. Here is a link to the Reliance kits available taken from the JenSales site: http://https://www.jensales.com/products/allis-buda-4-cylinder-gas-and-lp-g226-engine-kits-and-parts-ac-226-e.html Another manufacturer sell a flat top piston overhaul kit, IK-405 or OK-405 for half the money at TractorJoe.com. which sells both brands at the best price found, so far. RP 915151(7.25CR) under $500 with shipping. The 405 series is the flat top piston. Have yet to find one of these in a 4 inch bore. OK Tractor also sells these kits. Abilene Machine, AgKits.com, etc. sell these kits with the 7.25CR. Some of these also include cam bearings. I can't remember the name of the company that distributes these kits. Three words first starts with an A. They use parts from several sources to put together these kits. A dealer told me over the phone but I failed to write it down. I saw a couple of kits that offered a standard kit and an upgrade with better bearings. My Allis mechanic of 50 years has a contract with Reliance, and uses only standard 7.25 CR kits. Says the LP/170 version 8.25CR has starting issues. Not sure he is correct as Dr. Allis above has stated about the ones he has rebuilt for customers. I am starting the tear down of my D17 this week in my shop and will do all myself other than valve grinding and block boiling. Will evaluate/mic the crank to determine whether it will be turned down for the new bearings or not. Yet to decide which CR to go with. Number of sources for kits out there and most use these 2 brands of kits. I would buy the complete overhaul kit for a few dollars more just to get the complete gasket set for the engine regardless of doing the job inframe or out. Some inframe kits just include rod bearings, no mains but Reliance includes both in the 915151 and the 915144. The company has 3 different level of kits offered in both IN and out of frame. 112 series, 226 series and the 405's. One can buy the flat top pistons separately, but it is cheaper to buy a 7.25 kit and the pistons/rings separately. Truly a question of how much money you want to spend. Trying to buy all my stuff locally currently just to help out small business. Costs more but...."what can you do for your country"!


Edited by AC 4 Ever - 19 May 2020 at 8:56am

A 170 and 175 gas have the same starter as a D-17, so with a good battery there is no problem.

Mine is 12 volt neg. ground w/generator. Just rebuilt the starter, carb, s bowl, ignition, and powerwashed before the overhaul starts. I have a good source of OEM "new"parts. The dealer I bought my series 3 D17 w/WF (42806) from in 1979 retired & sold the dealership. His son still fixes tractors in the old building and has many pallets of parts. New rod if I need one. He has a contract with Reliance so I will likely get my kit from him to keep my business local. A bit skeptical of the 4&1/8 bore sleeves Seems like they would have to be 1/16 thinner walled, though he has yet to see any fail that he has installed. I don't need more horsepower. I had a cylinder with a bad oil ring. I put a hotter plug on and 2 years later on a hot day brush hogging(6footer) warm season grass seized the piston w/normal water temp. After cooling for 4 hours it started again but had noise. Shut it down. Towed it back. Been parked since last fall. Rolling it in my shop and start taking it apart tomorrow. Full overhaul/repair. Boil the block. Machine/replace crank&rod if needed. Rebuild the head complete with guides,etc. Rebuild oil pump if needed. All new bearings. Clutch if needed. I completely rebuilt the PD clutch several years ago when the fork/bearing failed. I'm 65, the tractor will outlive me but be should be good machine for years to come.

If your crankshaft has a .032" grove in it, it probably isn't worth grinding. Find a good used engine.  One from a Gleaner "E" combine preferably.