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Run @ 540 PTO RPM or faster when cutting?

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Kcgrain View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:44pm

Dave,the engine on the XT wasnt over heating beacuse of insufficient RPM or a design flaw by Allis Chalmers  that wasnt my statement it was over heating because the engine not being at full throttle was  not running at the HP needed to run the recutter, so the engine, laboring was generating more heat than the system was designed to cool. At full throttle the engine was  no longer laboring, wasnt generating the extra heat was flowing more water more air etc to remain cool. Also because this engine is turbo charged it proabably wasnt developing full boost to develop full power, at wide open the engine in its design was devloping the hp, boost, cooling capacity etc to handle the load.There was no internal problem with that tractor, none, not a clogged radiator, bad pump loose belt nothing the only difference was the RPMS and the lack of available HP for the job.I still have the tractor if it had some interanl problem it hasnt showed up since 1981 when this happened.which would pretty much rule out any such problems you stated.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:39pm
  The only reason I wouldnt run it wide open with the pto is because whatever your powering may not be capable of anything more than rated speed. In field work I run my tractor wide open and everyone else I know does too. We pull a 15' farmhand brushhog behind my 7050 or 7060 and have been known to cut down up to 3" trees by backing over them.  The clutches let you know when its had enough, but if our brushhog was anybetter than it is we wouldnt do it. Its 1000 pto though.

Edited by 7060 - 11 Jul 2011 at 11:40pm
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Ryan Renko View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:30pm
So ignore the factory tachometer and just bury the throttle at all time when using it under a load??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:21pm
you guys have it completely wrong if for some reason you think you are doing some dis service to your tractor by operating it at full RPM.It was designed to do that, combines run wide open 90% of the time, where is the abuse in that? When my uncle bought that XT new in 1970 the dealer told him flat out to run it hard to break it in properly and he did just that , and that tractor which I now own is still running great.You guys are stuck in the 1920's by thinking that operating speed is abuse.Its just that simple.Abuse would be running your bush hog at full RPM and than working the tractor till its ready to die and not giving it some room to breath, but I have an AC bush hog you cant make a tractor beg that hard the clutch slips, or if you have shear bolt type the bolt shears. Does that mean every job for the tractor requires full RPM. .........well by no means are we saying that, common sence dictates speed, and in some applications like baling hay or picking corn you cant run full RPM nor do you need it, but in other jobs like grinding feed, chopping crops, blowers, mold board plowing anything heavy that requires power open it up thats how it was made you will never hurt it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:17pm
PLEASE...

Everybody, go back and read the OP question.

There is no point in arguing horsepower against appropriate speed.  The implement is rated at 540, because the ASME COMPATIBILITY CRITERIA are all based on making equipment interchangeable between machines.  The whole purpose, was to establish design criteria so that IMPLEMENT MANUFACTURERS could make a good implement, that would be used between many different machines.

The machine was built to operate on a given PTO type, it had a given shaft size and spline count, was expected to be operated at the given RPM (1000 or 540 usually), and was expected to be brought no more than a certain amount of torque (the workload) and not more than a given amount of shock (hence, shear-pins).

Tractor manufacturers accomodate ASME PTO categories the same way.  They build a tractor, fit it with tires, gearing, and ballast according to the amount of tractive effort they're trying to provide.  Once that's all done, they set up the engine governor for however they feel will be most successful under those circumstances.  THEN they set up gearing that provides one or more of the common ASME PTO speeds applicable to that category.  They put a demarcation band on the tachometer to give a general indication of what engine speed yields the designed ASME PTO speed.

Then they put the tractor in your hands.

From that point, you pick your implement, and hopefully, you pick something that's a good match... i.e., don't pick a Category II PTO implement requiring 89hp, and put it on a Category II tractor that's only 55hp.  Likewise, don't expect a Category 1 540rpm post-hole digger... or your ground-man operator, to survive with it stub-adapted to a Category III 110hp tractor with a 1000rpm PTO.

Finally, don't swear by the premise that 'faster is better' or 'slower is better', and don't generalize postulation that stress on a given component at one speed is more, or less than speed at another.  Stresses given up in one scenario, are always met, and replaced with stresses from others.

Reason:  The engineers who designed the machine know more about what they were thinking and doing... than anyone else ever will.  As a frequent retrospective engineer, I face challenges left by engineering errors and presumptions, not only from original design, but changes that casually occur in manufacture, but worst, after modification by people who may have had a pretty good grasp for what was happening, but clearly did NOT understand the ramifications of how their modification affected other aspects of the situation.

If you want something to yield the safety, performance, longetivity, and durability intended by the original design, then OPERATE it that way.  That means, if the tractor's book says "Operate at xx for maximum power"... but the PTO device says "Never operate above xx", you'd better take the more conservative route of the two.

Next... Throw fallacy in the trash.  When an industrial or agricultural engine is designed, it is 'curved'.  That means, it is analyzed on a dyno for fuel consumption, torque, and thermal stability.  When they leave the factory, you can rest assured that the Owner's Manual will indicate the acceptable range of operation... and staying within those guidelines will provide the performance indicated in all curves.  They didn't 'design' it to be used to drive implements faster than the IMPLEMENT DESIGNER intended.  NO engineer would even THINK of doing that.

The comment about overheating due to insufficient RPM-  Bunk.  It MAY have happened, and you may swear by it, but I assure you that the reason has NOTHING to do with the engine being designed that way... it's because there's an UNDERLYING PROBLEM that needed resolution.  ALL cause of low-speed overheating on a LIQUID-COOLED engine can be traced to either compression leaks (into the water jacket, typically through cracks, a damaged coolant circulatory pump, a failing gasket, or a missing or stuck thermostat.  First condition, is combustion gases being forced into the jacket, and displacing coolant from the top of the cylinder head.  Remaining conditions cause overheating because draw pressure at the INLET SIDE of the water pump is too low to prevent cavitation... and coolant therefore is not able to absorb waste heat for extraction.  I guarantee that agricultural engine manufacturers DID NOT design and release an engine that would overheat at common ambient ranges when operated below some speed... especially for non-pressurized cooling systems. 

And finally, the speed at which you set the engine speed lever defines GOVERNED SPEED, not THROTTLE.  At just off idle, you can apply a heavy enough brake load to the engine such that the governor will respond by opening the throttle all the way.   You may not get maximum engine rated HP, but this is because of the disadvantage indicated in the TORQUE CURVE.  Peak Torque occurs at the point where the cylinders fill most completely.  Peak horsepower, however, occurs where the coincidence of torque and RPM yield the highest multiplication product.  In reality, calculating PTO horsepower is irrelevant, because abiding by the ASME standard means you only need torque... the other variable is FIXED AT 540.  That means for every ten foot-pounds of torque you can find at the shaft, that equates to a smidgen past one horsepower.  100ft-lbs = 10hp.  500ft-lbs = 50hp.  If your implement is only strong enough to take 350ft-lbs, and you feed it 630, you'll be visiting either the morgue or hospital, and your machine will be in the workshop or scrapyard.

Now, as for running machines that indicate higher acceptable input speeds, the manufacturer rated them as such for good reason.  Machines like silage blowers NEED to run fast, they're designed and built to do that, and simply will not throw adequately if you don't... but they're RATED accordingly.  I suggest, however, that if you have a 1000rpm silage blower, and only a 540rpm-equipped tractor PTO, that you look for some other drive method, as your tractor engine will be hard-pressed to GET there, or if it does, will be screaming bloody murder to swing it's PTO at almost twice it's rated speed... and you'll likely not be able to get the engine to spin there without disabling the engine governor.

Finally, there are some machines that you simply CANNOT run outside rated speed.  First and most obvious- the AC generator.  540rpm = 60hz line frequency.  Try to spin the engine 'faster' to get 'more power', and you'll be burning up electronics, overspeeding electric motors, and generally wrecking stuff.  Likewise, running it too SLOW will generate power at too low frequency, causing motors to drag and overheat.

Laws of Man, when broken, will frequently get you a slap on the wrist.  violating the Laws of Physics and Nature will get you the death penalty, and there ain't no trial-by-jury.
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Ryan Renko View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 11:02pm
I think this is why some tractors last many hours and others are beaten like rented mules!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 10:47pm
Kcgrain has it right. In the Nebraska test the tractor is running at full rated speed and then the PTO is loaded to bring the RPMs down to 540 to simulate field conditions not throttled back till the PTO is running 540 with no load.
 
 
I guess what pisses us, or at least ME off is when someone who is ignorant about how to operate a tractor starts throwing around words like stupid while spouting opinions which are pure nonsense.
 
 
If you really can't think of a situation where a tractor should be operated wide open, take it off the trailer and hook it to a tillage tool. Or at least read your owners manual.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Renko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 10:28pm
This is getting heated and long. I use my common sense when mowing small sh*t and when I get into bigger stuff I watch my trusty tachometer with the 540 mark adjusting ground speed. Ramming the throttle wide open would be dishonor to what common sense our dad taught us. Ryan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 6:09pm
wow how such a simple question can piss some people off. Tractor running slower than designed will do more damage than a tractor running faster. Cut the speed of a spinning shaft in half double its size, is a rule of thumb. A faster spinning shaft has less stress than a slow one. When a manufacturer has a 540 or 1000 pto mark on the tack it means to not pull the tractor's rpms to below that point or be prepared for problems.When a tractor is dynoed its is full throttle pulled down under load to its rated speed, which gives the proper reading on the dyno. This is how the dealers or fools think that a tractor is making tons of power, dyno it at full throttle and not pull it down to rated speed (the 540 mark or 1000 mark depending on the pto) and the dyno reads big numbers. Seen a dealer try and convince a customer his 2-105 white was making 200+hp stock, I told the guy there was no way in hell a stock 105 could do that, I got in a huge argument with the dealer because he had no clue how to properly dyno a tractor. The throttle on any brand tractor goes to the end for a reason and if the company didnt think so it wouldnt go that far. To call people names because they are running a tractor wide open, I hate to say this but you are showing your ignorance of the situation.When I was a kid we use to use a gehl 99 recutter to grind high moisture corn from ear corn to the silo it ran 1000 rpm , my uncle had a xt series 3 we filled silo with that thing for years and it would play with that recutter, loaned it to the neighbor because his Case tractor had broke down and he needed 1000 rpm on his recutter, after a couple of days he was complaining that the XT kept boiling over, we couldnt imagine what the deal was because we never had such a problem, went down to see what the trouble was he was running the XT at 3/4 throttle making it labor and not flowing the water properly opened it wide open like we ran it (for years I might add) the tractor cooled right down and played with his recutter. Thus endth the lesson, to steal a phrase.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 427435 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 4:24pm
Just remember that if you over speed a rotating device by 10%, the forces involved are increased by 21% (including how far something may be thrown).  A 20% increase yields a 44% increase in these things.

Check the Nebraska test reports for hp at rated PTO speed for your particular tractor-------there usually isn't much drop off and sometimes an increase in hp from rated engine speed.

A 175 had 62 hp at rated engine speed and 54 at 540 rpm PTO speed for instance.

A 185 was 75 vs 71.

A 6060 was 64 at rated engine speed AND 65 at rated PTO speed.
Mark

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Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bill2260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 4:13pm
When I swiched from baling square bales with wd45 to using 185 on a 14t baler, I noticed the knotters not moving as fast with the 185 as they did with the wd45. I am sure that my wd and wd45 pto runs faster than 540. 185 at 2000 rpms is suppose to be 540 and it just didn't work as fast as with the wd45. Maybe I am just simple, but that is the way it seemed. Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 4:03pm
Kinda shows how many of our posters have either never farmed/worked an Allis or are just new to tractors. I farmed on my own for 28 years, plus having grown up farming to age 25 or so, and never heard of NOT running equipment at "full throttle" when working it, including sickle mowers, rotary mowers, and various other applications. Granted there were times when we did not run "wide open", but that was choice rather than fear of tearing something up. Of course I would not belittle someone for not running their 60-70 year old equipment fast when there is not a need for it. I had a couple of Olivers, 1850&1855, and they had a shiftable PTO, from 540 to 1000, and when I didn't need power I shifted up and backed off the gas just to save fuel!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian G.  NY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 3:49pm
Boy, oh boy, oh boy!!
' hard to believe the number of people who don't have any concept of the governor's purpose on a tractor. Opening the throttle lever on a tractor is nothing like "puttin' the pedal to the metal" in an automobile.
Full throttle is not necessarily "wide-open" throttle. For heavy work, the tractor is designed to run at full "governed" throttle. The governor keeps the engine speed at the optimum RPMs which in turn keeps the PTO running at optimum RPMs.
PTO powered equipment is designed to run at either 540 RPM or 1,000 RPM and generally, equipment should be run at either of those recommended speeds in order to operate efficiently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeffrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 2:47pm

Try and blow corn silage at 2/3 throttle. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordan(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 9:19am
Originally posted by victoryallis victoryallis wrote:

it blows my mind hearing of people running wide open.  To my knowledge none of my tractors have been ran wide open while I have owned them.  Drive slower,  switch to a bigger tractor, or take the 15 minutes and switch the PTO over to 1000 rpms.  If you run wide open you have more money than brains.  One reply talked about picking corn and having to run wide open what where you using a garden tractor? I haven't picked much corn in my life (that why gleaner makes combines) but using anything from a D-12 to a 6080 and never went past 3/4 throttle.


You must have more money than brains as well since you can afford a tractor 50% bigger than your equipment requires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jordan(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2011 at 9:13am
Originally posted by Auntwayne Auntwayne wrote:

     As a matter of fact, I can not think of any piece of equipment that would require the tractor to be run at full throttle for any amount of time, EXCEPT......MAYBE......If I was pulling a onr row cornpicker with a full wagon attached.....and, I was buried stuck, and, even then, I would unhook from the picker !!!


Have you ever done any field work?  Because that takes full throttle to make full HP.  If full throttle is so terrible for the machine why would the engineers let it go that fast?  Look at a combine, they run full throttle 99% of the time out in the field.  Our 8030 went 6600 hrs. before needing an overhaul, at least 95% of those hours were full throttle running a chopper or doing tillage.  Also have a Ford 5640 with 5700 trouble free hours, 95% of those were put on at PTO speed or full throttle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 7:51pm
Just so I'm not confusing anybody, 540 rpm on my D17D is like 1650 engine rpm and is what I run my 160 mower at. The governor limits the engine to 2000 rpm max.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 7:46pm
Like what Russ says, that is in the owner's manual for my CA and D17D.
Page 16 of the D17D owner's manual says "When working tractor, operate engine at full throttle, or nearly full throttle, and select the desired transmission gear speed to suit the work being done. Severe over loads may be thrown on engine if tractor is operated at reduced engine speeds on heavy loads."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boogerowen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 5:10pm
Gosh, I have a new Bush Hog Razorback and my operators manual says in plain english to operate it at 540rpm, so I guess that is what I will do, as I don't like to tear equipment up because I do not own a bank.
I do however run my air-cooled lawnmower wide-open, just exactly as the manual says.
Looks to me like some of you fellers are trying to compare APPLES to ORANGES.
 
 
 
 
My 2 cents....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Russ SCPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 3:10pm
If you look in the front page of an operators manual for an AC 7020 and/or 7060 in large bold print, DO NOT OPERATE UNDER LOAD AT LESS THAN 2300 ENGINE RPM AS SERIOUS OVERLOAD CAN OCCUR,
 
PTO driven machines are operated as close to recommended input speeds as possible, 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ranger42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 2:16pm
I had a brand new gearbox put in a bush hog. While it was being repaired my grandfather, without me knowing, put the AGCO-Allis  5670 PTO to 1000 rpm. The  Bush Hog was a 540 pto. Anyway, after about 4 hours of light brush hogging...gearbox failed. So I know first hand running the implement at a speed for which it was not designed will cause failure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 427435 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 9:16am
Originally posted by cougar766 cougar766 wrote:

all I can say is when you equipment flies apart I sure hope none of you family or friends are around to get hurt or killed from your stupidity as pto equipment was/is designed to run 540 or a 1000 rpm and the tractors are set on their pto's to that speed. when you run faster than what was designed something will break. but hey what do I know I'm just a dumb ass that was taught to respect his equipment not just drive it.
sorry for the rant but stupidity boils my blood


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 9:09am
I run the lawn mower wide open, baler on the 190 at 1,500 to 1,700 rpm (way below 540 PTO), the discbine to get best cut I run at rated speed on the 7050 which is 2,300 rpm and 540 PTO. I have more tractor than implement so I rarely exceed 1,900 engine RPM on the 7050 when doing tillage work. The 190 XT get run at rated speed for most tillage. I think is says in one of my 185 sales brochures to gear up and throttle back for best economy. I have a Case 1896 - 2096 brochure that I believe says the same thing. Pulling the same equipment you did before but with a little bigger tractor gives good economy and better reliability according to these brochures. Now I'll have to dig them out to see if I made myself a liar.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Auntwayne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 8:34am
       Cousin Gary got off of the riding mower, and, when he stepped down planted his heel directly into the discharge chute and the blade took off his heel. You should see how he "walks" today!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 1:32am
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

I know from chopping iron pipes and trees with my dad's mower, that a boot, even steel toed, isn't going to save your foot from the modern mower, probably won't even slow it down as it mulches your toes.....
 life with half a foot is not as handy as with all your toes.


You're absolutely correct, Gerald, in fact, if you're wearing steel toes and wind up with a foot under a walk-behind, it is more likely for you to lose your leg just above the knee, than just a portion of foot.

I was lucky-  I only lost half a foot, and you are correct that it is rather unhandy.  Not unliveable, but one wears out shoes incredibly fast, and the asymmetrical gait is hard on the lower back.  You wouldn't believe how often people ask me "Why weren't you wearing shoes"...

Yeah... they're that stupid.  I don't even try to argue- I ask them for their shoe, and when they say "Why?"  I tell 'em I'm gonna throw it on the ground, run a mower over it, and show 'em how tough that shoe is, compared to a 212mph machete.

The fact is, there is NO inherantly 'safe' way of doing most things... but I certainly WAS wearing shoes, and I still have that shoe... and unlike most rotary mower accidents, I didn't do anything glaringly wrong... nothing stupid, just slipped and went down.

My 9-year-old son and 7 year-old daughter have seen that shoe, and just to make it very, very obvious of what they're dealing with, I placed a rock  in the yard at a strategic point, and 4 layers of 5/8" OSB against a tree... then drove over that rock, sending it through all four layers... and out the other side. Rule is, when they hear a mower running, they move to the other side of the house, so the mower is never, ever in view.

The only 'safe' lawn mower, is goats and sheep... and they've got their dangers, too... but they're a whole lot better to eat than a Lawn-Boy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bauerd44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2011 at 9:30pm
All of my PTO equipment have statements to the effect that 540 is the maximum input rpm.  That is what I do.  For any non-PTO work, I will go full throttle as needed. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2011 at 9:21pm
the only times we ran full throttle with pto equipment was when using the forage chopper,the silo filler(blower) and the portable feed mill when grinding oats or grinding baled hay for piglet feed.all other we ran at pto speed, haybine, baler, manure spreader, only two things that I can recall running pto real slow was the forage wagons and the pto powered elevator.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Dave in il View Drop Down
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Location: Manville Il
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in il Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2011 at 8:44pm
If running my equipment properly is stupid, I guess I'm really stupid. 
 
 
I've ALWAY operated lawn mowers and tractor mowers wide open for more than 40 years. I've never had anything "fly apart" that didn't involved lack of maintenance or hitting an unseen object. Same thing with other PTO, or any kind of equipment for that matter. The LOADED speed of your tractor or lawn mower will be around the operational speed your equipment was designed for unless you have more horsepower than it requires. Run the tractor wide open and adjust your travel speed as fast as as you can go and still do a good job.
 
On light loads, yes I shift up and throttle back on jobs like running the planter, sprayer or things of that nature. But if you're running a tractor at 2/3 throttle and your plowing, discing, field cultivating or running a baler or a mower you have too small of an implement, too big of a tractor for the implement or you should shift up a gear.
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norm[ind] View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote norm[ind] Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2011 at 7:50pm
 acombine is to run at 540 when combing not in the banyard  should run about 545-550 when empty no materiaif you run it faster it shake the s--- out of the shakers and sievesl  benn there done that we ran 2 all the time 60 & 66
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Location: Elvis Land
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2011 at 7:31pm
Well I don't know what side of the world Cougar got up on this moring but it looks like it was the wrong side.  I for one take good care of what I have.  Here's my mowing rig.  It has 5600 hours on it and has never been apart.  In fact we have never had one fail yet, mower or tractor related.  Although dad did pull the 2000 mono-frame plow in two on a hard clay hill one time.  I'll say a prayer for you tonight Cougar.
1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson
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