![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
b block cracks |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
podunkpuller ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2011 Location: Podunk, MA Points: 112 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 10 Jun 2011 at 8:39pm |
Just bought gramps B back from a cousin. It has sat outside with an open exsaust for eight years! After blowing the water out of the cyls with the air hose and draining 16 quarts of water out of the drain pan, I filled each cyl with p b blaster. for eight days I hung a weight on a wrench from the pto and changed direction every morning and night with a lot of rocking in third gear. No dice still stuck. I pulled the motor and tore it down, off to the machine shop in the morning with the head, block and crank. The raidiator and water jacket had good antifreeze in it, but there are cracks between the cyl at the top of the block, I think and have had other such cracks on other blocks. the head gasket should seal the cracks and the head and head bolts should keep it from opening up when assembled but I'd like some other opinions when the machine shop would like to stitch it for only $600. All I want is the water jacket checked and the deck checked. then clean and check the crank new guides in the head and it'll be all set. |
|
310, 2 B's, C, 2 WC's, 2 WD's, WD-45,D-14, D-17 gas, D-17 d IV, 190
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22825 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So are you taking the block to a shop with the pistons stuck and the sleeves still in it? I would at least beat the sleeves out and then get the pistons out to save the rods. through the rest in the scrap tub if they aren't any good and buy a complete kit with pistons, sleeves, and rings.
There are more of the BE and CE blocks cracked between cylinders than there are ones that aren't cracked. Don't wast money on stitching it. If there are cracks down in the bottom where the o-rings seal the sleeve, find a different block. You might even find one that doesn't have cracks up top for way less than the stitching would cost. Don't even think about putting it back together without replacing the o-rings on the sleeves. Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 10 Jun 2011 at 9:20pm |
|
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
|
![]() |
|
podunkpuller ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2011 Location: Podunk, MA Points: 112 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If the block checks out Ok and the crank is all right I'll be ordering a whole kit. pistons sleeves,rings main and rod bearings and the valve train. I don't intend on having the block stitched , just wanted some other motor heads to back up my opinion when I drop off at the machine shop in the morning.
|
|
310, 2 B's, C, 2 WC's, 2 WD's, WD-45,D-14, D-17 gas, D-17 d IV, 190
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |