Wrong Color, but...

I'm looking at buying this tractor.  I haven't seen it in person, but assuming everything works properly, what would be a fair price?

http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n491/shano27/?albumview=slideshow

Thanks

Greg

No, but I'll keep it parked in the back of the garage where it's real dark.

Have you looked at tractorhouse or iron search to see what others are asking for that model? Also if you have a local dealer or auctioneer you can ask them? You might even find another  similar one that way, never hurts to have options.

I worked for a builder a few years ago that bought one new. I put the first 100 hrs on it spreading gravel. I liked it very well and it was the first I ever used with an electric pto which worked awesome for post holes. When you hit the switch is stopped right then. It started good but sounded bad and knocked/hammered and smoked when started first time each cool day

Four wheel drive is a help in moving snow. Those tires look worn down and tire quality is a big factor in snow. I've tried a garden tractor with snow thrower (plugged more often than it tossed snow in a wet late spring snow but was better on the average than a Ford 8N with good tires and a rear blade), the 8N with rear blade (and no chains), and a MF-135 which is a heavier tractor than that green one but without front wheel drive. The MF-135 had a MF-236 loader which was too much loader for the tractor and when a chain fell off, it could only move by bucket power. It needed a ton of added weight on the rear axle. Last winter I used the MF-135 without loader (because I moved that loader to a JD 4020) and a heavy duty rear blade. I got it stuck trying to drive forward and shove snow to the side with an angled blade. It doesn't have enough ground clearance. I may move the 4020 from farm to home for next winter, or build a plow for the front of the 135 or spin the rear blade and back into the deep snow with the 135. I did succeed in keeping the main driveway open with the 135 by being timely each snow, not letting the drifts get too tall for it to get over. It would have failed at that the previous winter.

The day the 4020 was delivered, I spent all after noon with the 135 and loader trying to open up the farm driveway. The 4020 drove over the same drifts practically as if they weren't there without chains, drifts that I failed to move with the 135 and loader. The 4020 with blade or loader I think would be far more effective because of the greater ground clearance which this little utility tractor fails to have even with FWD.

A tractor with blade or front plow runs out of room to push snow around here. The 8N could only push snow backwards by lunging at the snow which broke the lightweight blade frame once or twice. The snow thrower was best at moving dry snow but moved it further than a bucket or blade and so worked better over multiple snows. A two stage snow blower would be better and I have a walk behind to begin the opening process around here now. A loader and bucket allows stacking snow higher than a blade will push it but unless one starts the piles well back from the place to be opened a long winter like the last two can run out of space. The 24" wide walk behind snow blower can open up snow more than 2 feet deep though not very fast and for stuff that would move with the rear blade its fairly fast. Its handy for opening up the sliding door on the machine shed so I can get the bigger equipment out.

Gerald J.

Don't know what they are asking but those are Green painted Yanmars. I personally think the best value in used JDs is in the 5000 series and up tractors. The 5000 series have lots of power, enough weight to handle a 6' bucket with ease and can do alot of work without needing 4wd. My 5400 with the forks on can lift an Allis CA and put in on a trailer. They can be had for around 15k