Power Director clutch discs

If you brought me your Power Director clutch and said "rebuild it like it was your own",  I almost for sure probably wouldn't replace ANY drive discs or separator plates. Not saying that I absolutely wouldn't, but highly doubtful;. You'd have to have the clutch run dry on oil or be so badly shimmed by someone who had no idea what they were doing to warrant their replacement.  If those parts aren't warped, they are probably good for re-use. I would replace C-clips as needed, all the six rollers and most probably the two ramp plates. The Low and High drive hubs if badly worn would be considered for replacement t. That's it. So, why do you think you need all 7 drive discs??

I'll try again, yes low oil and the shims were way out of spec. long and short were used in the center location, huge gap. A few clutch linings are at or beyond the ware indicators and a few are gouged. High temp discoloration on a couple of them. The brass collar let go and made a real mess, a nut from the collar bolt must have gotten in between the brass collar and the slipper tube (I call it) and wiped out the cog on the slipper tube. I never found the one missing nut after a very thorough search. I have a replacement brass collar and the cast piece that activates it. Also have a clutch housing with the engagement linkage on the way. I'm learning as I go on this one. 

Edited by Brad1 - 3 hours 32 minutes ago at 12:59pm

you might just as well look for a used one

Ramp plate(s) pockets for the rollers that look like those will surely jump out of engagement when the engine is running wide open throttle. I see it has two different driving disc styles, which means someone has been in there before. A missing nut ?? Have you removed the tin pan under the PTO drive gear area? which is just ahead of where this clutch is located. What I see, if the discs and steel plates aren't warped, they will work as-is. Get it shimmed properly with new ramp plates and keep 2+ gallons of oil in it and you'll be fine.