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bobkyllo 
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 Topic: Hydraulic wizards
Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 5:20pm |
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So I'm going to buy a 3025e john deere compact tractor. It has hydraulics for the loader only. It would be awesome to have atleast one outlet in the rear.
Looking on the world wide web I find many kits to do such a thing that range in price from 500 to 2000. And the skill level ranges from half hour all the way to more in depth work.
My question is why can't I go to the 2 lines that feed and return the oil to the loader joy stick. Unhook those two lines and create 2 new lines that will t from the loader valve and go up to a single lever hydraulic valve that I could mount up by the fender some place. From that new valve my new remote lines will run to the rear of the tractor.
I hope this makes sense.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 5:48pm |
presently the FEED line to your valve is just circulating pressure thru the valve and back to sump thru the return line.... your PRESENT valve has to be STROKED to block the return and push the feed oil toward the loader cylinders... Then the pressure increases as you load the bucket..
If you TEE into the FEED and RETURN lines, you will have circulating oil only.
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bobkyllo
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 6:16pm |
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I understand that. But if I get another hydraulic valve/handle I will need a feed and a return for that valve so that new valve/handle can operate a set of outlets.
If I get the feed and return lines from the current loader valve that will come factory that should work correct?
All I want to do is "t" into the feed and return lines john deere has used to feed the loader valve and run my 2 new lines to a new valve to operate a outlet in the rear. I understand that if no valve is being used the fluid just circulates.
All I'm asking is will I screw something up doing this. For example If I have a dump wagon hooked to the tractor using the rear remote that I'd like to install, when I operate my new valve to dump the wagon will that some how also operate the loader?
Edited by bobkyllo - 28 Apr 2024 at 6:17pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 6:53pm |
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Look for a joystick valve with power beyond feature, make sure you know all the specs involved, pressure, flow, and open or closed center...
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 7:01pm |
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You could put in a diverter valve - to change the function of one of present valves to operate another function . But you will lose the previous control .
My HD4 used a diverter valve to operate valve body on backhoe , but I lost control to loader functions .
In your case a 3rd valve is the other option , a stack valve change where you could add as many ports to run several functions . If present valve body is expandable or not ?
On my IH 460 the valve body can be stacked with multipal valve bodies , at present there are 3 valves but friend has same tractor with 6 valve stack as he has a mowing attachment on tractor , with a boom and tilt function along with swing of boom arm .
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 8:55pm |
the simple way is to buy a NEW STACK VALVE that has 3 sections to run the loader lift, loader tilt, and rear implement... something like this.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 8:59pm |
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The problem with putting a TEE before your present valve is that the line from the PUMP to the VALVE will continue to only run circ pressure ( maybe 100 psi) thru your LOADER VALVE.. even when you stroke the NEW VALVE and try to get more pressure... You will never build up pressure in the NEW VALVE because you will continue to LEAK OFF thru the LOADER VALVE at 100 psi.. ... the TEE allows all the oil to go to the LOWEST RESTISTANCE POINT ... = NO PRESSURE.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Apr 2024 at 9:19pm |
Your loader valve looks something like this.. Just circulating oil at 100 psi thru the system..
If you tap into the lines above with your NEW VALVE... you will still have 100 psi supply to it until you STROKE THE LOADER VALVE and close off the return.
If you stroke the loader valve and close off the return, then all the oil goes to the loader cylinder and you build up pressure ( depending on what load you have in the bucket). The PUMP, VALVE and CYLINDER all have the 2000 psi at this point.... The PUMP can not build up pressure UNTIL you stroke the loader valve CLOSED.
Like this...
Edited by steve(ill) - 28 Apr 2024 at 9:30pm
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 7:01am |
As has been posted simply teeing into the hoses will not work.
I believe you 3025E is open center hydraulics. The oil needs to go through one valve to the second on by way of a power beyond circuit. You would need to check with your JD dealer (guessing it is an OEM valve on a JD loader) and see if the valve on your loader, can have the adapter for power beyond installed in it. If it will, they should be able to give you plumbing info to go with the adapter.
You could add a new "remote" valve (for grapple and remote couplers) that is set up for power beyond and route the current loader valve supply through the new valve then to the existing loader valve via the power beyond port of the new valve. This may be the most practical.
Replacing your current loader valve with a 3-spool valve would be another way. You could use couplers, on hoses, for the third function. For a grapple route the hoses to the front. For rear remotes route them to the rear.
If you look for a new valve for your loader, get one with the float detent for the lift arms, as I expect your current loader valve has. Not all valves advertised as loader valves have the float detent position.
A diverter valve would work to swap the oil supply from one valve to the other, but that means only one valve will operate at a time, based on the position of the diverter valve. I doubt that would be handy trying to use a grapple on the loader, as you would need to shift the diverter valve use the remote valve, then shift the diverter valve back to use the loader valve.
The electric function swap valves will work for a grapple, but I don't know how well they would work to control rear remotes.
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 3:56pm |
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Why not, on the lines between the cylinders and the valves, pipe a ‘3-way valve’ on each of the two lines? Off that 3-way, run the hose/piping to the rear. Have each handle on those 3-way turned a certain direction for front usage, turn both for rear usage.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 4:29pm |
YEs, Lars... that would work..
Another option would be to TEE into the discharge line on the valve to the bucket TILT... and run a hose back to the rear.... When you use the rear, you would tilt the bucket all the way BACK and when it stalls out you could use the rear hose .. ??? ........... that MIGHT work... putting the valve in the opposite direction should make the rear hose "float" back down. ??
Edited by steve(ill) - 29 Apr 2024 at 4:32pm
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bigal121892
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 4:58pm |
According to the John Deere website, two remote valves can be field installed, might be the best way to go.
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bobkyllo
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Posted: 02 May 2024 at 2:51am |
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Thank you guys for all your thoughts. I was hoping to do this a bit on the budget order seeing as I had the extra valve and two hoses for the rear remote. All I would have had to buy would be the supply and return hose.
You all had great ideas but I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel here. It's my first new tractor and I think I'll bite the bullet and install a factory built and designed kit. Might be cleaner and easier. I hate to keep spending money right away.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 02 May 2024 at 8:10am |
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Pay the piper and be done. You'll be glad you did and a year from now you'll forget the pain.
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 02 May 2024 at 10:11am |
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That is the correct and best answer for a tractor that new.
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