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Allis Chalmers 170 gas |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 643 |
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Good catch! I didn't look at the photo very carefully; apparently the culprit did not care enough to look closely either.
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Lynn Marshall
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2156 |
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You might want to spin the engine over a few times without the plugs in it to blow out any more debris.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Got the chaser, did 2 holes before the kids went to bed, worked awesome. Was able to properly install the new plugs, their gasket flush to the block.
Used vaseline in the chaser slits, worked wonders and turned the carbon into a paste. Tomorrow I'm doing the other 2 holes. I'm relieved this worked out with ease. Hopefully this will usher in a new era of easier starting and better combustion. Thanks everyone for pitching in on the advice! Saved the engine I'm sure of that. |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 643 |
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Yup. Put some grease on the tap to catch the carbon gunk, don't try to go all the way in with one pass; back it out and clean the tap, then go a little further each time. You will get a feel for it.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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A couple of drops of motor oil on spark plug and chaser threads would be a very good idea.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Okay, pfew, that's a huge relief. I'll give that a try! |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 78102 |
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yes... your thread chaser or tap should clean up everything... The plugs screwed OUT, so you should be able to get the chaser back in.. OK.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Oh dear that sounds not so great Dr. Do you have a tractor penicilin for that? Good god man, 😳 So a thread chaser won't work anymore either? |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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R-43-T plugs don't even have a GASKET on them !!! They are a tapered seat sealing type plug !!! which damages the threads in the cylinder head.
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 643 |
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Probably not. With the spark gap hidden up inside the spark plug chamber it might make it more difficult to start the engine.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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I'm glad you guys caught this, it makes sense now why the new plugs didn't want to thread in. The lower portion of the spark plug well seems caked up with deposits. I'll have to go and purchase a thread chaser to clean it out as best as I can. What I don't understand is why would anyone want to put the wrong plugs in an engine? I'm undoing what looks like years of neglect and abuse, it's pretty sad. We've only been the owners of this tractor for a few years. Is there any further damage done by running the wrong plugs ? I laid them side by side to fully understand the significance of what you were telling me, I had no idea you could even run an engine with the wrong plugs! |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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But, a 170 cylinder head uses 3/4" LONG spark plugs( not 3/8") of a proper heat range.
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Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3657 |
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The plug you want has a threaded portion about 3/4 in. long. I've modified an old spark plug with the long threaded section by grinding three or four grooves down the threaded length an used it like a tap to clean the carbon buildup out of the threads. Or you could buy a tap as pictured. No, you shouldn't need to pull the head.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Ok, so assume the reach of the previous plugs was short, doing some research into them. And the new ones have a longer reach. Can I buy a tool like shown above and just clean out the spark plug holes? Please tell me I don't need to pull the head and everything to do this sort of job? |
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Alvin M
Orange Level Joined: 24 Jun 2018 Location: PA Points: 728 |
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Autolite 405 is the right plug if it had short plugs in it clean the holes
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Or did you mean because the wrong plugs were used previously in the tractor (acdelcor43ts), they are a shorter reach and now the threads in the engine block are compromised making fitting a proper spark plug Autolite 405 I assume, more difficult and I need to clean the spark plug holes first like you said with a tap ?
Sorry to have to ask all these detailed questions, feeling pretty bummed to be honest about this issue. |
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Shoot, are you telling me the Autolites 405 are no good? Honestly I don't know the difference between long and short reach, but I guess I could find some ACdelco R45XLS somewhere online.
I got the autolites from Napa, the guy seemed to believe those would be good. |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 643 |
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As Dr. Allis pointed out above, the plugs need to be LONG reach; if short reach plugs were used then the threads are contaminated with carbon deposits and need to be cleaned out with an appropriate tap to prevent further damage.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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The new plugs, the autolite 405, didn't seem to properly fit either. The acdelco I pulled were fit snug and tight, but the autolites, there's a lot more resistance when threading them in, I am worried over tightening and stripping something out on the threads.
I can crank them in harder with probably a couple more turns, I'm just concerned I'm damaging the holes if I do.. Not sure why that is, they should be the right ones for this tractor no ? |
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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I got autolites 405's in it right now, would that do it? |
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Yep, new air filter and new battery are in the works and on the list already.
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8035 |
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A 45 is hotter than a 43. Probably not the reason you're having trouble starting.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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That tractor uses AC Delco R-45 XL or R-45 XLS LONG reach plugs !!!!!!!!!!!!! Gapped at .025" .
Edited by DrAllis - 21 Feb 2024 at 6:31am |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 643 |
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That engine needs to be warmed up fully and worked hard, but first, do whatever is needed to ensure a properly functioning air cleaner. Then you will be able to get a better idea as to what you need for spark plugs (heat range, etc.).
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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I have been progressing slowly, waiting for some gauges to come in and she's hard to start in the freezing cold barn with a weak battery that's due to be replaced as well.
I ran her for a few minutes, then checked the plugs, they were fouled with oil. Could this be because I'm having a hard time starting her, there's no combustion happening, and keeps just cranking without the ability to burn off the oil? Or is there something larger at play here that I'm missing ? The older plugs Acdelco r43ts that I pulled out of her, didn't seem to be right for this tractor, but they weren't fouled with oil, just a bit sooty but not too bad.
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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It was indeed a combination of the battery being weak, and a somewhat dirty carb.
Potentially even the choke panel not closing fully. Made some adjustments, cleaned carb, charged battery in a warm room. Got her fired up for the first time today since parking her in the barn early November. Work is not finished yet, still have to hookup gauges and sort out wiring for that and lights. But, it's looking more positive! I have a keyswitch again with proper wiring and ignition. It's a big win to be honest! |
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Well, i got the wiring done, very simple just focused on ignition. It has spark. It turns over, slowly, but no fire yet.
I took the hose off to carburetor, nada. Charged battery, turns over a bit quicker but still slow. No fire. I do see some light smoke or vapor coming out of exhaust, so I feel like I'm getting closer. But she doesn't seem to want to start back up. Spark is blue and bright. So I am starting to clean carburetor and have ordered a gasket set, it's not too dirty, but hasn't been cleaned since we are the new owners of the tractor. I'm also suspecting the battery, to be 15 years old, so due for renewal. Fingers crossed she will fire up after cleaning the carb and installing a new battery. Any other tips? Feel free to add, really hoping she fires back up. Have spent a lot of time on it so far. I feel like I'm close though, thanks for reading! |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19601 |
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Air cleaner air inlet has no cover on it.
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11570 |
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If you need a new wiring system I build new systems for the AC Tractors. We offer one for the 170/175 Gasser. Visit our website and check it out. I build the systems as the orders come in. Our front wiring kit P/N is 1503-12A. Color coded the same as OEM. Much heavier circuitry than OEM and updated connectors. Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
Edited by Steve in NJ - 14 Feb 2024 at 10:14am |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ElementalEarth
Bronze Level Joined: 05 Oct 2023 Location: Canada Points: 117 |
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Well, it's been a bit of time, work has progressed on the tractor. Parts have come in, more grease has been degreased!
So far I have: *cleaned the radiator, flushed it and refilled with new coolant. * reinstalled coolant cleanout plug at the back top of the block that was leaking previously * removed valve cover, adjusted valve lash and replaced valve cover gasket with cork gasket * changed oil, new oil filter * rebuilt fuel lines with new lines, new fuel filter, cleaned out gas tank and inspected fuel level sender (might still be good, not sure yet until tractor can run) * new alternator 10 si with 3 wires came in, still waiting on internally regulated 12v ignition coil. * got new spark plugs * currently working on the electrical wiring, crimping, soldering, etc. She's almost ready to see if we can start her up again, still waiting on the coil. Cleaned out the air filter, but it's so nasty that might need to be replaced, still need to grab water temperature gauge, potential sending unit, oil pressure gauge, volt gauge to replace ammeter, hydraulic fluid and filter and bits and bobs of electrical parts. The air filter housing does not have a cup to cover the end of it, i take it this is important ? Where do you ground the alternator? any bolt will do ? Do the gauges have a seperate ground wire to the frame or do they just ground to the frame by the bolts that hold them in place ? The old gauges were all metal so I assume they just grounded themselves, some newer gauges seem painted or even plastic. Cheers for stopping in, it's been super cool to work on this beautiful maching and have been eductating and learning alot. Hoping to be able to keep the tractor in better shape for years to come by doing this.
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