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Allis B with melted lead in the oil pan. |
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TomC
Orange Level Access Joined: 24 Nov 2017 Location: Hillsboro, MO Points: 1544 |
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Posted: 16 Oct 2022 at 6:56am |
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Yes sir the hand clutch works like a WD series. A CA is little bit bigger tractor than a B , about a foot longer,800 lbs heavier dry weight,wider and a few more horsepower. I put 12.4 x24 tires on mine, it has a Cross 3 point conversion on it, sometime in it life someone put a CR engine in it (power unit) I just put a new governor in it and that gave it a bunch of snap, I also bought a wide front end for it from a member on this site that's going on it this winter. I use it with a 5 foot bush hog,50 gallon boom sprayer,seeder. I have a 2020D with a loader that I do any kind of loader or dirt work with but my CA does a lot of work as well.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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running B for $400. is a good buy...... B is narrower than the C or CA... good for your trails.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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I didn't know ca's had a hand clutch. Is it just like the wd where it disengages one wheel but keeps the pto and hydraulics running?
I bought a running b this afternoon for $400 but the owner wants to keep the wheels and tires, and the manifold. I should be able to swap parts and get a running tractor. |
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TomC
Orange Level Access Joined: 24 Nov 2017 Location: Hillsboro, MO Points: 1544 |
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Matter of fact there's a CA over by Ogema Wisconsin? $2,300 on craigslist. There's only one picture of it but it doesn't look bad from what you can see.
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TomC
Orange Level Access Joined: 24 Nov 2017 Location: Hillsboro, MO Points: 1544 |
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Split the difference and get a CA, then you have both clutches, adjustable wheels,a 4 speed transmission, I have a CA and love it, I did see a few CAs on craigslist up in your neck of the woods.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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That is my plan.
I am looking to buy a ed 45 with a wide front. I really liked the two clutch set up they had and it will power my baler easier than the b. But I have a lot of attachments for the b and most of my trails are too narrow for a wd , so I want to get the b, or a b running again. |
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TomC
Orange Level Access Joined: 24 Nov 2017 Location: Hillsboro, MO Points: 1544 |
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Make lemonade out of lemons, buy a little bigger one to use now, put the B in the shop and swap engines over the winter,then you have a bigger work tractor and the B for a chore tractor,you can NEVER have too many tractors
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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OUCH... that Sucks... good luck on the NEW PROJECT..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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The governor isn't the problem, it acts the same wit the governor bypassed completely.
But none of it matters any more. When I took off the carburator I saw a water leak behind it. I scrubbed the grease of the block and found two 10 inch long cracks. So at this point I am done with this engine. I need to find another engine or another tractor. |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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i would assume the throttle lever is not set right with the governor / carburetor...
at the front left of the motor, disconnect the governor cross rod from the rod going to the carburetor.. pull the throttle forward and back and watch that the governor arm is moving smoothly across the front of the motor..(behind the radiator) .. Put the THROTTLE lever at FULL OPEN... go to the carburetor and pull the rod FULL FORWARD... now see that the carb rod lines up with the hole in the governor cross shaft.... if not, bend the cross shaft forward or reverse until it fits. If that dont work, then you MIGHT have a governor problem.... and there is a SPRING on the governor rod at the housing , right ? Edited by steve(ill) - 14 Oct 2022 at 8:46pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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I need some help again. Once I got the engine put together it would only run for 10 seconds then wouldnt start again until it had fully cooled. I put in a new condensor and now it fires right up.
The problem now is as soon as it starts the engine wants to run away. The only way to slow it down is to fully close the choke. Even then the governor is keeping the throttle closed so it must still be spinning faster than it should. No matter what position the hand throttle is in the engine wants to run away and the governor is forcing the throttle butterfly valve closed. If I override the governor by forcing it by hand to open it has no affect on the speed of the engine. The only way I can come close to controlling speed is to play with the choke, and even then I can only adjust it from too fast at full choke to runaway as soon as I open the choke a tiny bit. Any guesses on where to start? I had the carburator apart and all the jets out. Everything looks clean. I didn't have a rebuild kit so put it back together with the old parts. |
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corbinstein
Orange Level Joined: 31 Jul 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 796 |
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how much rust do you have in the tank?
I've had rust in the tank cause the same problem. intermittent plugging of the filter and tube. What I did was remove the sediment bowl assembly from the tank, drill the top just a little and install a piece of copper tubing to come about a half inch up into the tank and drill the sides to allow fuel to enter there as well. That way you have more unobstructed places for fuel to enter.
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Alex09(WI)
Orange Level Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1698 |
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iF YOUR tractor was not sputtering or missing when you thought it was 'lacking power' than your problem is not in the carb. If you had spark off the coil wire when the tractor would no longer start, then the electrical components should be okay too. If you have a magneto, to check the timing proceed as follows: Disconnect pug wires from plugs. Hand crank the engine very slowly until the magneto impulse snaps. At this point, the setscrew on the front crankshaft pulley should be pointing all the way up or all the way down. If the mag snaps when the setscrew is before or after vertical, loosen 2 mag attaching bolts and tilt mag so it snaps when setscrew is vertical, either top or bottom. Your static timing is now correct. This setting would have to be pretty far off to have that much affect on engine power.
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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Steve and Les, thank you, I assumed that was probably the case but wasn't sure and couldn't find a for sure answer so I was pretty sure the timing is right(or close to it) but it kept bugging me that it may be firing too late and that is my problem. So since timing is at least close I guess the carburetor is the next step.
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 618 |
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Yes, that is correct. The impulse mechanism retards the spark to prevent the engine from kicking back and breaking your arm while hand cranking. When the engine starts and gets above cranking speed, the magneto goes to the full advanced position for normal running. Edit: Steve is a quicker typist than I Edit #2: The other function of the impulse is to 'whip' the rotor at a much higher speed than is possible to achieve at hand-cranking speed; electrical theory tells us that the energy increases significantly the faster the magnetic lines of flux pass through the windings. This results in better sparking. Edited by Les Kerf - 02 Oct 2022 at 8:52pm |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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YES... the "SPRING" winds up and lets go at TDC when you rotate slow.. Once engine is running, the weights FLY OUT and take the spring out of the picture,.... and it will fire at the FIRE MARK.
mags were setup that way to work with HAND CRANK systems.... Still works OK with electric starter. Edited by steve(ill) - 02 Oct 2022 at 8:35pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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I have a question about the timing. When I turn the engine over very slowly by hand the number one plug fires(from the snap coupling) when the piston is very close to top dead center. Is that correct? Or should it be firing 30degrees before? I read that when it is turned slow it should fire at top dead center. I just don't know if that is correct or not.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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yea... if it ran for 30 minutes... and you still have spark.... sounds like fuel problem.. If it was the timing, it should not have run for 30 minutes.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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Most likely.
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 618 |
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Reckon it's time to find out |
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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The condenser is new(less than 10 hours on it) and all four plugs had really good spark last night at which point we couldn't get it to run for more than a 30 seconds to a minute. Fuel is getting to the carburetor for sure, the fuel is only a few weeks old and the float is working, and there is no water in the fuel. I opened the drain on the carburetor and drained it into a glass container so that is how I how I know all of that, I don't know what the inside of the carb looks like. It could be a plugged jet, the reason I didn't dig into it is lack of gaskets and the carburetor has never been a problem before other than water getting into the tank. It just felt unlikely that the carburetor would choose 30 minutes after rebuilding the engine to stop working. |
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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It wasn't sputtering, but when climbing hills in thicker grass it felt like it was bogging down almost to the point of wanting to kill. Pulling the choke was how I killed it(kill switch wasn't hooked up yet) It took a good 4 or 5 seconds for it to shut off with the choke fully closed. At this point I am leaning towards not getting fuel is the next thing to look at as well as triple checking the timing.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77840 |
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well, if you overlook any INTERNAL problem.. If you just showed up and said " my engine stops after 30 minutes and will not restart very good"..... we would normally say the COIL or CONDENSER are bad.... or your loosing fuel from a plugged filter or tank.... or gas cap not vented.
Loose valves / bearings / worn parts, normally dont keep an engine from RESTARTING after it has run 30 minutes .......... See if it restarts when cool.... See if it has spark.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Alex09(WI)
Orange Level Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1698 |
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VALVE clearance was right in the ballpark .010 hot/.012 cold. Was the tractor sputtering or missing when it was 'lacking power'? Did pulling the choke halfway or all the way have any effect? I am thinking fuel or electrical problem but need more info to make accurate diagnosis
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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It looks like I need some more advice. I put the engine together yesterday and it ran perfect for a half an hour just sitting and idling. I was trying to get it up to temp to adjust the valve/rocker gap. It didn't want to get up to temp so I went to cut hay with it to get it up to temp. While cutting it lacked power. I assumed the lack of power was the valve gap being too big.
Once it was up to temp I set the gap to around .010 to .012 after that it wouldnt run for more than a couple minutes at a time. I tried adjusting the gap bigger and I couldnt get it to run any longer. Eventually I couldn't get it to run more than a few seconds. I eventually took the engine back apart thinking the bearings may have slop again. Plasti-gauge showed 1,2 & 4 were .002 to .003. And cylinder 3 was slightly over .003 I also went through the timing and that appears to be correct. Anybody have suggestions on the problem? |
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Hillmann
Silver Level Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Location: Wisconsin Points: 206 |
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Pretty much all of this is based on the hope that the pump stays working even if I have to prime it before every time I start it. I'll have to watch the gauge very closely and hope it keeps working.
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 618 |
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Yes. PROVIDED that the oil pump doesn't quit again. I would use 20w-50 oil and plug off the feed to the oil filter. Best wishes |
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Lon(MN)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Elk River,MN Points: 1905 |
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I have a hand crank running engine and other new and used engine parts for sale. If you care to make a drive to Elk River Minnesota.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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corbinstein
Orange Level Joined: 31 Jul 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 796 |
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If you're that desperate for oil pressure in that engine, you might could run 25% lucas and get by for a bit. I did it on a 57 Studebaker just going the 7 miles back and forth to work until I had a chance to pull the engine.
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Alex09(WI)
Orange Level Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1698 |
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Yes, the .0025" are 'oversize' bearings for 'undersize' crankshaft. .005" are available also but I don't have any in stock right now. Looks like I have all the other items here that you listed. For your time constraint, I would see running the cam as is if you have to. But the rod bearings need to get better clearances to avoid spinning a bearing. With adjusting the shims you should be able to get close to spec as long as the crank journals are not galled from the bearings. Its possible a VERY tired engine could have that much wear on the cam bearings.
Edited by Alex09(WI) - 23 Sep 2022 at 1:58pm |
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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