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Cultivator Spacing |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8447 |
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Rookie question here. The only time I’ve cultivated row crops was with my G, and with the way the tractor was designed, I could scratch the surface to within a couple inches on either side of the one row it cultivated, and it had my full attention at all times.
Now I’ve got a 6-30” cultivator on the rear of my 7080, and I’m wondering how close most people set the inner shovels to the row? Never used a rear mount before, so there may be some “iron root worm” loss until I get the hang of it. Luckily most all the rows are very straight. |
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1900 |
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It depends on the size of the crop,how fast you go, are you trying to take out alot of weeds or just till the soil? It was nice when the corn was over a foot tall or close to 2 ft and just fit under the axle, you could go 4 or 5 mph and throw some dirt around the corn. It depends on what kind of shanks you have on the cultivator and if you have lumps in the soil that cover the corn, and very last if you are on flat ground you can set closet then if you are on sidehills. I would say start with a 12 inch gap and adjust in or out for conditions. Good and bad thing with a 7080 on a 6 row the cultivator will go where the tractor goes. One more thing what shovels do you have? If you are running something like a 6 in sweep, years ago when everyone cultivated they had half sweeps you would use next to the row.
Edited by DanWi - 08 Jun 2022 at 3:10pm |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8447 |
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I’m cultivating cotton, and it’s currently about 1 true leaf. There aren’t a bunch of weeds everywhere, just in pockets. I won’t get started quite yet (muddy) but once it gets a few more leaves I’ll probably have to. I do have rolling fenders so hopefully those help. I’ll start at about 12”.
Edited by CrestonM - 08 Jun 2022 at 3:01pm |
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4932 |
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Mount a mirror forward and low, that will look underneath of the tractor at the row, turning around to see what you are doing is a sure way to hoe out the rows.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3472 |
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Creston, congrats on getting your 7080 running this season. Give your cultivator a trial run the way it’s been initially set. Operate it (cultivate 50-100’) then stop & raise up cultivator. Inspect its front shovels for any crop roots hanging from them.
More cultivator info please(ie.. Brand/model? Front shovel width4”,6”,etc? Front shovel full size or row-side wing trimmed flush to shank side? Front shovel condition(+-1/2used or new?) Coil spring danish tine shanks? Or-flat steel spring shank? Or-fixed cast shank with knew kickout springs? If the cultivator’s front shovels have their row-side wings trimmed off, you’ll probably want them adjusted closer to side of rolling fender(4-6”??). If shovels are new, give them 2” more from fenders. If shovel shank is flexible(danish time/AC vibra-shank), allow an 1” more for their movement for turns & ditches. Carry a pair of 3/4”, 15/16” box/open end wrenches in tractor for in-field adjustments? Set tractor’s 3pt sway blocks to their “in” position if you want to allow cultivator to float side-to-side. If small crop size demands slow 1st gear travel speeds, don’t forget your favorite cab music (fm radio, cd, mp3, smartphone speaker???). |
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jvin248 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 421 |
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You'll get the hang of it once you practice on rows that are on the edge of the field near all the trees (lowest grain bushels there to lose if you cultivate badly). Shorter crop you need to have the shoes farther apart and drive slower. Taller crop you can drive faster with the shoes closer to the crop. By then you may have cultivated a few times so any crop plants that grew outside the general row are long gone by now anyway. Story is my one uncle, when a teenager given the cultivating job, got a strain in his neck looking at the indicator rod on one side of the tractor about mid-day so he moved it to the other axle and carried on. He did not check position carefully enough so he spent the whole 4th of July out in the hot field uncovering corn with a hoe instead of with the family at the 4th of July party. If the plants are small, you may need cultivator shields to protect them. I cultivated some of my corn too early and too small and covered some of it. I thought of my uncle when I was out there with a hoe. Which reminded me of another farmer who boasted he had the best hoers in the state. .
Edited by jvin248 - 08 Jun 2022 at 7:31pm |
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2444 |
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1st question, did you plant with 6 row? This don't work well if ya cultivate 6 and planted with 8...now if ya gots one of them new fangled guidance things,this may be a non-issue...
You'll learn to drive good,, hope yacan get that 7080 tires in enough to get down them 30" rows |
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8688 |
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I've little to no cultivating, but what I always heard from my father in law, and what was stated above, is always look forward; don't turn around and look back
Darrel |
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Ray54 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4661 |
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I concur on the don't look back from my time cultivating vineyard. Keep the front end of tractor where it belongs tool on 3pt follows. I like Paul's idea of a mirror.
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8447 |
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Boy howdy, a lot of questions to answer from a lot of helpful folks! Thanks to everyone for their input. I’m not sure on the terminology, but the shovels are not the half-shovel kind, but the front shovels on each row are about 4” across. All are used, mounted on flat steel spring shanks. It’s an old John Deere (all I could find on short notice) RM cultivator from the 60s/70s that was originally 6-40” rows that I narrowed down to make 6-30” rows. Planted with a 12 row planter, so I think it will work fine.
The mirror idea is a good one. I’ve got extra mirrors I’ve pulled off junk combines and cotton strippers, so I should be able to rig something up. I really wanted to be able to adapt a Deere front mount cultivator that would’ve originally been on a friend’s 4430, but I haven’t found a decent way to adapt it to the Allis. Not looking back makes me nervous, but I understand that turning around will take enough time to get you off enough where crop could be taken out. I cultivated about 50’ with it and that’s what happened when I turned around to check it. Edited by CrestonM - 09 Jun 2022 at 3:21pm |
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Michael V (NM) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NM Points: 2444 |
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12 to 6 will work great. My dad could turn and look back, if I tried that,I seemed to always make a mess....I have since got to where I could look,but takes LOTSA acres covered..we always had a rear mount, so I haven't had the opportunity to run a front mount. Really,cultivating is pretty much a thing of the past around here,with all the new chemicals. But a crop sure looks good after a cultivator pass, I think it actually would grow some within a few minutes after
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11965 |
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If I was cultivating with 6 rows on 12 rows planted, and a tractor that size, I might consider doing a skip-loop pattern. Cultivate your 6, skip 6, next 6. You could either go all the way across the field and come back, or, once you had three done you could do an alternating deal, fill in a pass, skip 6, loop back. Hard to type out, but I think you know what I mean.
Been a while since I've cultivated, but I agree, sometimes a crop sure perks up from it! I guess I missed it, what did you find on the tractor to get it fixed?
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24348 |
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re: 'don't look back'... because when you do, you turn the steering wheel(probably right), start wiping out some crops, then when you 'correct', you wipe out even more........ look far, far down and the tractor will 'magically' stay on track...
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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wildcat2 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 03 Aug 2011 Location: United States Points: 110 |
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A company in Minnesota made a tractor mounted mirror for cultivating called culti vision. Bluestem Farm Supply may have them for sale.
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farmboy520 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2016 Location: Beason, IL Points: 553 |
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Those whoops are (or were) called lightning strikes around here.
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On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's)
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4932 |
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Culti-Vision was an IH trademark for the Cub, A & B tractors. If someone was using that label for a mirror, I'm surprised they were not sued. IH was sued (and lost) by Allis Chalmers for what Allis Chalmers termed the "wasp waist design" that the Farmall A & B tractors used.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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soggybottomboy ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 206 |
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When I was a teenager we would cultivate corn twice. I started with a wd and a 2 row front mounted cultivator when my brother went into the service. I was 12. Dad used the wd45 with a 4 row front mount. We would work till almost sundown in June, and then we would go home to milk the cows and feed the hogs. I milked. Dad didn't milk. Suppertime was 10 pm usually, at least during the month of June. Later, we bought a couple of rear mount cultivators, and we used 7 inch sweeps with the ones along the rows being half sweeps. We moldboard plowed everything in those days, the ground was loose, and i think we had those row spaces at 7 to 9 inches depending on how big the crop and the weeds were. First time thru was low gear, and the second time we could go in second gear. Cultivation with a row crop cultivator does not work as well as it used to for me, and I think it is because we do not use the moldboard plow anymore. The sweeps throw slabs and cover the crop, even if it has a little size to it. Our soil is not super loose anymore and even using shields that second sweep back will throw slabs of dirt up and over the top of them. At least that is what happened the last time I tried it. I sure don't miss it either, but it was an economical way to beat the weeds.
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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green cultivator huh?
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bigal121892 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 808 |
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We used these before guidance systems: If your 7080 has the small fuel tank, it would be best to remove it for better vision with the mirror.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24348 |
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Someone, years ago, posted a black and white picture of corn and it was PERFECT straight lines, N-S, E-W, and the diagonal... Them old guys KNEW how to operate their equipment.....probably 30s or 40s ??
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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bigal121892 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 808 |
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Checked corn planter; there was a chain the length of the field, the chain had a "knot" every so many inches. The knot would catch a set of forks, that would then turn the seed plate and drop seed. This allowed for cultivation north to south, east to west, or diagonal. Essentially it was an early positioning system.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3768 |
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You mean precision planting?
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bigal121892 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 808 |
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That would probably fit it better.
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soggybottomboy ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 206 |
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I can barely remember dad planting with a check planter.
Ours was a roll of wire with knots, but I can't remember how it worked. The wire needed to be moved every time you came to the end. So did a person use 2 rolls with 4 stakes, one roll being for the next pass and one roll for the pass after that?
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Mikez ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Jan 2013 Location: Usa Points: 8604 |
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Ok not to steel the thread but how would one choose the sweep size or use of shovel
Edited by Mikez - 12 Jun 2022 at 6:59am |
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soggybottomboy ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() Joined: 20 Feb 2018 Location: Iowa Points: 206 |
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Sorry Creston for getting off on a rabbit trail. I hope you get that cultivator rig working. It takes some trial and error sometimes.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3768 |
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I was being facetious. My apologies |
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3472 |
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Creston, The RM with it's flat spring shanks is a good culitvator. I don't know much about cotton fields (crop &/or its weeds), but you might be mindful of particular weedy areas where taller cut weeds(volunteer corn?) tend to bunch up under the cultivator's flat shanks? Essentially weeds get "raked", then can balled up, and begin pushing over into the crop rows & breaking off plants?? Shovel/sweeps width was usually determined at the local dealership in the cultivator's initial setup. Shovel's width usually allowed an overlap of 1/4-1/2 their widths from front row to the next row of shovels. A "gang" (frame,depth wheel, 4 shovesls, & 1 sweep)covers an area between adjacent rows, wherein there are 3 stages from front to back(Two outer front shovels positioned next to crop rows, followed by two inner/middle shovels, which are then followed by one rear sweep). The "sweep" shovel was usually quite wide, hence the term sweep. That arrangement of shovels/sweep would suffice most conditions and do good weed up-rooting. Ideally, cultivator is designed to uproot weeds & pass that uprooted weed thru another shovel/sweep to knock all soil from it's roots & lay it uptop the newly tilled soil to die/dry out in the sun. Depending on cropping & row cultivator desired setup/practices, maybe once across a field might suffice? Timing the crop height a little taller could enable faster cultivator speeds which enabled better soil movement to sides to "cover" tiny weeds in & around crop plants. If high weed pressure demanded earlier row cultivation in small height crop, then "fenders" could aid some. Usually a decrease in travel speed was in order? If so, then less soil being moved sideways. Could result in second pass a week or two later to capture escapes?? The later cultivations in taller crops could produce loads of crop roots being pruned/trimmed/cut-off. That wasn't good as it was deemed a potential crop yield decrease? If necessary(too weedy) though, it was tolerated. So new sharp shovels/sweeps usually uproot weeds best & are worth their replacement costs. Back in the 1960s-70s-80s, a whole set of new shovels were replaced every year on each row cultivator. On my Dad's 900 acre farm back then, we operated two end-folding eight row JD RGs(earlier version of RM) on JD 4020 diesels & an AC 4 row for the AC D17 gas. Our goal was to get one pass(2 if allowed) on corn & two passes minimum on soybeans.
Edited by AC7060IL - 12 Jun 2022 at 5:55pm |
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