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7000 down on power |
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Posted: 10 May 2022 at 8:51am |
Yesterday I was using my 7000 all day plowing then disking. Everything was working great until the last 5 minutes when there was a slight change in the exhaust note and it was down a little on power. I dropped down a range in the PD and finished up as I only had one pass to go, which it did without issue.
I unhooked the disc and headed back to the shed, it sounded normal again. The temps were good all day, as was the oil pressure. Any idea what I'm looking at? I figured I'd start with a new fuel filter as this one has around 200 hours on it, although the book says change every 500. Simple and easy to change, I'm doing it. The other note in the book was to do turbo maintenance every 1,000 hours and do a rebuild at 2,000 hours. I have no idea when it was last touched. I'm watching the granddaughter this morning (pretty nice duty! ), she's down for a nap so I figured I'd ask here for any ideas before I head home later and take a look. Edited by Play Farmer - 10 May 2022 at 8:52am |
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Ron(AB)
Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 943 |
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Also check the condition of the fuel line...
The filter was probably the cause though. |
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19538 |
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Start with a new fuel filter. Leave turbo ALONE, unless it starts leaking oil.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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The filter did not solve the issue, unfortunately. I'll get the line changed but I do have more info that may be helpful...
After the filter change it worked well for about 5-10 minutes. It seems when everything gets heat soaked is when it starts. It acts like it might be dropping an injector. Something new is every now and again the engine will randomly pick up a few RPMs, like it was throttled up, then it drops back down. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to when this happens. I have no problem spending the $$$ to fix it, I'm just not sure where to go next. As always, thank you all in advance. Honestly the knowledge on this forum is a big part of why I'm driving orange.
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dp7000
Bronze Level Joined: 26 Sep 2021 Location: Winchester Kent Points: 134 |
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Have you checked the fuel flow out of the tank? It could be obstruction moving around.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Not yet - that's next. Yesterday I finished getting the corn & beans in, next week I hope to get back on the tractor.
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Ron(AB)
Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 943 |
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How many hours on the injection pump?
Changing speeds could be the governor is due for a rebuild - the whole pump. |
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405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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I have no idea, not even a guess. |
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4772 |
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pump is a DM so no flex ring to fail. You simply have a fuel flow to the pump issue! Once it starves, the advance will go to full retard and it will be a real pooch! If pump has a worn h&r it would be hard to start, worse when hot.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I would say you are duking air for some reason. Bad fuel cap, restriction in tank or line, loose hose camp, old cracked line or oring on fitting. MACK
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youngorange2000
Silver Level Joined: 27 Mar 2019 Location: eastcentral MN Points: 308 |
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Has a collapsed inner air filter been rueled out?
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19538 |
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Make sure it is a bottom draw supply hose instead of the old standpipe design which wasn;t any good.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Lots of good information here - THANK YOU ALL.
I'll get the tractor back to my shop next week, get the tank drained, check the inside of the tank, and replace everything from the tank to the filter. Since it'll be in the shop I'll replace every other rubber part too. |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19538 |
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Inspect and verify which fuel supply system to the filter base it is. The old standpipe system has a plastic line coming from the top of the fuel tank to the lower rear side of the filter base. This system wasn't good. The newer design is a rubber hose coming from the bottom inner side of the fuel tank to the bottom rear corner of the filter base. If this is what you have, disconnect the hose at the filter base and lay it down below the fuel tank level. Fuel should GUSH from this hose. If not, it's blocked inside the tank. Also the filter base can be plugged with debris. Remove the filter and blow air backwards thru the base to expell anything that might be trapped there. Do this with the filter removed.
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Tim NH
Orange Level Access Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Lancaster NH Points: 1062 |
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I had an issue like that. Turned out to be the set screw for the fuel shut off shaft on the pump was loose.
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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rw
Silver Level Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 377 |
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Better check pipes and hoses between turbo and intake for leaks or air filter plugged.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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It's a bottom feeder. I'll be doing a complete inspection of the system hopefully next week. |
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Tim, RW, everyone - thanks.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 19538 |
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There is an occasional fuel shut-off cable that slips in it's clamp on the right side of the engine, not pulling the fuel lever clear ON. The fuel shut-off lever should be almost straight UP at 12 oclock when turned fully ON.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Following up some on this;
I got the tractor in the shop and found a few things that certainly didn't help. The filter housing fitting is a push-lock type fitting, the line was just standard fuel line and there was no clamp on it. The line would spin freely on the fitting, so that wasn't good. The line itself was pretty old and a little stiff, so it was replaced and new clamps on both ends installed. The next one might be the root cause. I found this in the tank, in the rear section, behind the baffle, right where the line feed port is. I ended up removing the tank completely to get it out. I wonder how long that had been floating around? The priming plunger is a bit old and stiff, I'm picking up the new one today or tomorrow. I also adjusted the shut-off cable as Dr Allis suggested. It was pretty decent as it was, I tightened it up anyway. While I have it the shop I also replaced the valve cover gasket, which it needed. With all this done it does seem like it might be running a touch smoother. I also seem to be getting about 100 more RPM out of it and I needed to readjust the low side idle, so obviously something changed. I only have one small section of field left to work on, and we've had a bunch of rain the last few days, so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to see if it's 100% fixed. Based on what I found and how it's acting in the shop I'd tend to think it's better. Thanks again for all the input and suggestions - this is an awesome forum with a lot of smart people.
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DanWi
Orange Level Access Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1705 |
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When you did the valve cover gasket it would have been a good time to check valve clearance.
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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It would have been, for sure. Pretty easy to do it later though. I've never changed an easier gasket.
On a side note, I went to pick up the new plunger yesterday, nope. Our local Agco dealer was recently sold and they're no longer an Agco dealer. They're packing everything up and sending it back. Apparently "I'll be over to pick one up" translated to "pack that away and ship it back". As much as I'd like to buy local they forced me to buy one on-line. It'll be here next week. |
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4772 |
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Your local injection shop should have them, stanadyne 23457.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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FIXED! With all of the other stuff I had done it acted better but it still would hunt a little while idling so I knew it wasn't 100% fixed yet. The only thing I hadn't yet done was the filter base, as the Good Doctor suggested. Today I had some shop time so I took off the filter and unhooked the feed line. I didn't see anything obvious but put a shot of air to it. There was a little POOF sound and this came shooting out of the housing. Amazing it worked it's way that far through the system but it did. I put everything back together and headed to the field. After an hour of semi-heavy disking I'm calling this one fixed. Again, thank you all for the information and suggestions - you've fixed another one! Edited by Play Farmer - 26 May 2022 at 4:45pm |
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lentsch
Silver Level Joined: 10 Feb 2011 Location: Glencoe,Mn. Points: 212 |
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Hope you got the updated fasteners for the valve cover when you replaced the gasket. They have the little spring with a shoulder bolt, pretty well eliminates future leaks, at least they did for me.
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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070
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Play Farmer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Jan 2016 Location: NNY Points: 732 |
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Thats what was on it. I think the tractor has had some decent work done on it before I got it. |
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