Rear tire recommendations

So I have seen a couple of recommendations to switch to 16.9 x 28 tires when I replace my old ones. I get they will be about 2" wider and 3" taller than the 14.9 x 28 tires I have now, but what is the advantage? They should have more weight if fluid filled to the same level and the top speed should be a little higher but what else? I would think pulling power would be slightly less due to the taller tire, but is that more than compensated by the additional width?

DrAllis wrote: Some have no concept of how many cast iron weights it takes to replace 1,000 lbs of calcium chloride fluid.

Yes to the loader, but no tillage work for now. I have been requesting quotes from a couple of the local tire stores to get an idea of cost for rims, tires, and fluid. Probably not going to like the numbers I get, but that's part of it.

Loaders tractors DO NEED lots of weight on the rear. However that doesn't always mean fluid filled tires.

My XT had CC when I bought it. Slight damage to one rim at the valve stem so I had it repaired. Installed new tube. Recovered the CC in a tank, and choose to put it back in both sides after new valve was installed on the other side. Other rim and tube was in excellent shape. Painted both rims inside and out. As others have said it provides good weight and a good ride. The cc ballast works well for me on hay ground with Our NH 273 and a full load of hay on a slight slope. I have wheel weights to add for the 20’ AC disc and 4 bottom semi mount plow. We still plow when it’s time to replace worn out orchard grass fields. I know that’s not popular with the no-till crowd but we have fairly level ground. It’s worked for years and I really enjoy running a plow as our father did. As hobby farmers, we go with what we have, old school, but effective.

tractor tires are easier to mount than car tires. just a lot heavier. when I've bought tires here mounting was included. they even pumped the CaCl back in. using a loader you definetly want loaded tires. 

If it were mine, I would go with the 16.9 tires, mount them myself, with nothing but air, then go find a 1500 pound concrete counter weight and put as many wheel weights as would fit inside of the edge of the tire with whatever wheel tread with you are running. With a loader the wider tread the better. 

Fluid in the tires add zero weight to the rear axle bearings. A 1500 lb weight hanging on the lift arms adds 1500 lbs of weight onto the rear axle bearings.

Just so you can compare. If I still owned my tire shop and my back was still good, 14.9x 28 bias ply tires would cost you $435.92 each. That price is installed on the rim/tractor. Tubes would be $43.10 each. Pumping fluid out and in would be $20.00 each tire.   Unfortunately the wholesale warehouse I used to use no longer stocks rims.   Can't give you a price on them.
16.9R x28 or 420R85x 28 are $814.01 each installed on the tractor. Tubes are $50.47 each. Again pumping fluid would be $20.00 out and in. These are not a name brand tire, but they are ones I would put on my own tractor. To mount tires. First it is far easier to do with the rim mounted on the tractor. You will need a pair of full size vicegrips, a tube pulling chain, 2 36" tire irons work great. And a gallon of good bead lube, NOT dish soap. It AIN'T slick enough. Bowes big blue is the best, but NAPA Ruglide is OK. You want to make sure the valve stem is aligned perfectly with the hole in the rim. That's why you need the tube pulling chain. Some guys pull the stem through the hole, the put the plastic nut on the stem and them finish mounting the outside bead on the rim. I would not recommend that for someone who is first time mounting tires. I've seen too many valve stems ripped off tubes. Also remember there is a front side and a back side to farm tubes. The Valve stem on a tractor tire is not centered on the tube like an end loader tube. You have got to make sure you don't have the tube in backwards. I've seen stems ripped off tubes when this happens. Please use the plastic stem nut that comes with the tube. If you put fluid back in your tires and the valve core seaps over the years, a metal stem nut will weld itself to the stem making it almost impossible to repair the tire. I have actually twisted off valve stems under this condition. Bolt your new rims on the tractor, valve stem hole down, lube up the inner bead, set the inner bead over the top of the rim, clamp your vice grips on one side of your rim so the tire won't slip around while you are attempting to get the inside bead on. Put the tube in the tire, valve stem down, remove valve core, put the stem nut over the chain, put the chain through the rim hole, attach the chain to the stem, push the tube back away from the tire bead and then push the outer bead on the rim as far as you can, you may need to clamp the vicegrips on the rim to hold it in place. Then, making double sure the tube is not close to the bead, install the outer bead on the rim. Pull your stem through the hole, screw the nut on the tube. Put more tire lube on the rim and then start inflating. When the beads just start to contact the rim, stop and let all the air out of the tube. This will allow the tube to straighten itself out inside the tire. Then start airing up the tire. If you have new rims or highly corroded old rims with new tires, you may need quite a bit of air pressure to get the tires to pop out on the rims. Good luck, too bad you aren't close I'd be glad to help.

Edited by HD6GTOM - 05 Dec 2021 at 12:12pm

I have used Windshield washer fluid

I agree that it takes a lot of metal weights to equal C.C. in tires. A few years ago, I put near new (90%+ ) Firestone F & R 16.9x28" on my D17 II. The old tires were about 3/4 full of C.C., didn't refill the newer set. I put 4 of F&H 2628 weights on each side, not sure what they weigh, but was a lot of work at my 60+ years took 2 days to do tires n weights. IF plowing more than ditches and along field edges it still needs more weight to be equal to how it used to pull 3x16" S.C. Also added 2 suitcase weights from 100 series 20+ years ago, heavier front & protects the grill from a bad drivers errors. 

Another huge advantage to liquid ballast is that it creates zero shock to the drivetrain, unlike cast iron weights that drastically increase shock load and increase rolling inertia,  both of which isn't healthy for the drive train or the brakes. Personally, I'll stick to beet juice, pricey, but I learned my lesson once when a 16.9-28 tire got accidentally punctured inside the barn and it sprayed everything in sight before we were able to get it under control, massive job to clean everything up that got a bath. As to the weight/no weight argument, I've often wished for more, but can't say I've ever wished a tractor was lighter. My opinion of wheel weights is that they are nothing but man killers and back breakers.