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corbinstein 
Orange Level
Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 796
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 Topic: B/C oil pan removal
Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 12:24pm |
I've got what I think is a Wide front C (has adjustable wide front end and C steering).
It's been sitting outside with only a raincap and is locked up. #3 cylinder is full of rust from what I gather. I will be most likely remove the head and the pan.
Does anything else need removal to get the oil pan off? |
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
Points: 3974
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Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 4:45pm |
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the 2 1/2' bolts in the bell housing are real had to get to. its much easier to split the tractor.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 90812
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Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 9:16pm |
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pull the head and look at the damage to the cylinder wall... then you will convince yourself its time to split the tractor and disassemble the motor.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 1009
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Posted: 11 Sep 2021 at 3:47pm |
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The two times I've had the pan off my B, I remove the front axle with the support that goes thru the bell housing right at the back of the pan. I do OK with the two rear bolts partially into the bell housing, (I guess my fingers are not too big). On a few B's my Dad has drilled holes through the bottom of the bell housing and then a socket on an extension works 'lickity split'.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Ottdurr
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Joined: 24 Aug 2021
Location: New Zealand
Points: 15
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Posted: 13 Sep 2021 at 11:18pm |
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Yep little fingers are a must to get the 2 back ones.
I was able to remove my pan without removing anything else but no way will it go back in with a new gasket youd never get it lined up without tearing it (or your hair out) Just drop some parts of the front end like others have said, it's not too hard.
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corbinstein
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Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 796
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Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 6:28am |
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I was hoping to not have to drop the front end. dang. might just pull the head.
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
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Posted: 14 Sep 2021 at 9:53am |
I can take the pan off (and back on) my B with a new gasket without messing with the axles. Sorry, don't know about a C.
For the B, it takes some finesse and careful angling, but it's not hard.
Truth be told, I freed up an engine that had rust in cylinders 2 and 3 and got it running well before I ever took the pan off. When I was soaking down the cylinders (skip straight to Evaporust and forget about grand pappy's trans fluid mix) I left the drain plug out and let everything drain into a 5 gallon bucket. Sure, I ran some kerosene to rinse everything and then ran it for a bit on new oil to get the schmutz out, then changed the oil and ran it for a year until I wanted to take care of the pan gasket leak. Many years later, it is still running perfectly without new rings or lower bearings- the head was removed to deal with the rust in the cylinders, then freshened with a lap and a new gasket, but that's it. Some day it will need a rebuild, but she runs sweet right now and doesn't burn oil excessively.
Edited by HoughMade - 14 Sep 2021 at 10:01am
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1951 B
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corbinstein
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Joined: 31 Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 796
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Posted: 27 Sep 2021 at 7:05am |
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I got lucky and it freed up easily after sitting 2 months with the Acetone/Diesel fuel cocktail. Now I just gotta get it running maybe thanksgiving. 500 miles from me at the moment.
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