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ryan(IN) 
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Bluffton,IN
Points: 769
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 Topic: WD45 front pedestal bearing and race
Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 7:38pm |
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Going through the front pedestal on my brothers WD45 and got it all apart except for getting the old race out. Front pedestal is still on the tractor and really don’t want to remove it if we don’t have to. How do you get that race out?
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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old farmer
Silver Level Access
Joined: 12 Oct 2011
Location: Sturgis, Mich
Points: 341
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Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 8:31pm |
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Weld on the race a couple spots. It should shrink the race so that you can get it out.
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627
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Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 10:30pm |
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Ryan, I re did the front pedistal on dads WD 45 several years ago. One of the bearings has a curved race with barrel shaped bearings. I could still get the bearing from AC. Because of the cost, I chose to get it from O'Reillys, big mistake, I was promised the bearing overnight from O'Reillys. It took 3 weeks to get it. I pulled the pedestal, it was fairly simple to work on with it out. I took the right side frame rail loose, cribbed up the tractor under the hand clutch part of the tractor. If I remember correctly the seals were only available from AC. Good luck with your project. I also put new u joints in the steering shaft and replaced all the grease zerks. It steered a whole lot easier.
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Merrill Wi
Points: 2010
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Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 6:32am |
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I made a long punch and drove out the race from the top.
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GreenOrange
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 836
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Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 6:53am |
 Lon(MN) wrote:
I made a long punch and drove out the race from the top. |
X2 - I did the same.
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2174
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Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 8:01pm |
I used a hammer and a 3' or so length of 1" round stock I had laying around to knock that race out. Mine wasn't stuck in there too badly.
When I ordered a replacement bearing from AGCO about a year ago, the cone and race they provided were just plain old tapered roller bearings, not the barrel/spherical/whatever you want to call it style that was in there and completely shot.
From looking at the parts book, early WDs had a different part number for the bearing and race, so I almost wonder if AC started with a plain tapered roller bearing and then had to change to the barrel style later in prouduction due to some problem with the tapered roller bearings not holding up. I looked and looked and as I recall you can still find the barrel style, but they are pricey ($200+). I think AGCO's logic is the tapered roller bearing will probably last most tractors for the rest of their lives, and they're probably right.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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ryan(IN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Bluffton,IN
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Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 8:47pm |
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We ended up pulling the shaft out to do it. Not as bad as we thought it would be to do.
We got the bearing and race through AGCO.
New question. How tight does the bottom bolt need to be? We tightened it to what we thought was good but I wanted to know from you guys how tight it should be.
Edited by ryan(IN) - 08 Jun 2021 at 8:49pm
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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