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I inherited a WD-45

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ovlovwd45 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Jul 2021 at 12:30pm
I replaced all three seat bushings.  No more wobbling.  My right knee still is in the way of the hand clutch.

The lower oil drain pan bolt is seized.  Vice grips wouldn't budge it since was already rounded and the metal seems very soft.  Next I used an extractor set but that ended up just extracting a junk of the drain plug.  I still haven't gotten that chunk removed from my extractor.

What I had ended up doing was draining what I could out the side drain plug and pumping out the rest with an old fuel pump.  

I'd like to eventually get the lower drain plug off.  There's enough meat left on the plug that I could weld a nut on it.  I'm not sure how safe it's to weld on an oil pan that will still have some oil in it even if it's drained though.

Bumble bees have taken up residence somewhere under the tractor.  That's another fun problem.  They haven't attacked me yet but they make their presence known when I use a hammer or impact tool. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2021 at 11:05am
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

. If the bearings are bad in the water pump, there should be play when you try to move the fan. If the water pump  bearings are bad, don't run it or you may ending up putting in another set of hoses and doing some radiator repairs.
When I grab the water pump fan pulley with the belt on, I can feel fore/aft play and some play when turning the pulley. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 10:51am
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

If your seat rocks side to side at the support bar at the transmission like mine did, I ordered new bushings for that and the shock mounts. Reused my bolts as they were not worn. I did however replace the one at the pivot at the trans. Had a neighbor they broke his back when that bolt failed and he went backwards landing on the drawbar. Luckily no equipment was being pulled or it would have been worse.
It's support bar at the transmission that's loose.  It's disconcerting to go around a corner and have the whole seat move.

Do you by any chance know the part number for the bushing at the transmission?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 10:50am
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

Is the coolant coming out of the drain cock or dripping off it? Have you tried removing the drain cock to see what is going on?

If you are low on coolant, the water pump may make more noise. If the bearings are bad in the water pump, there should be play when you try to move the fan. If the water pump  bearings are bad, don't run it or you may ending up putting in another set of hoses and doing some radiator repairs.
It is steaming out of the drain cock.  I haven't touched the drain cock yet.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 8:06am
If your seat rocks side to side at the support bar at the transmission like mine did, I ordered new bushings for that and the shock mounts. Reused my bolts as they were not worn. I did however replace the one at the pivot at the trans. Had a neighbor they broke his back when that bolt failed and he went backwards landing on the drawbar. Luckily no equipment was being pulled or it would have been worse.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 6:58am
Is the coolant coming out of the drain cock or dripping off it? Have you tried removing the drain cock to see what is going on?

If you are low on coolant, the water pump may make more noise. If the bearings are bad in the water pump, there should be play when you try to move the fan. If the water pump  bearings are bad, don't run it or you may ending up putting in another set of hoses and doing some radiator repairs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2021 at 5:28am
All of the above and some you havent found yet sound right on the money! Welcome to my world! Still love these old tractors! Water pump may be bad? I have never had to get a replacement yet. Probably just luck??
 Reverse? Well as mentioned you may have to let the foot clutch out just a little then back in while gently very gently bringing it into reverse? I have one that is smooth as silk shifting, others tight and stiff. 
The seat, well, the shock/ spring can be bad, the rubber bushings shot in the shock and the front pivot, the seat bent distorted, Have seen all of this and more.
Your doing great! Looks better out of the barn, Much more happy tractor!
Hand clutch position: That can be adjusted with the not easy to get too, generally rusted tight clevis/ rod from the bottom of the clutch handle to the arm on th e cross pin through the case. If you can get the small pins out and remove the lever it works better. Take it to a wire wheel, clean and lube the gently see if you can get it free. With it working the hand clutch position can be reset. I like to have mine at the same position as the steering support arm. I am 6-1 and have knee clearance at that position. 
Also those small cross pins in the yokes can be very worn. I have drilled them out and used oversize pins in those joints too.
So what is you plan for the new tractor?
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 28 Jun 2021 at 5:37am
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2021 at 9:25pm
I replaced both radiator hoses today.  After that coolant started streaming out of a little drain cock when the motor is running.  The drain cock is not loose at all.  There's also more noise coming from the water pump area.  

Does this mean I'm due for a new water pump?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2021 at 9:05pm

The oil pressure gauge reads within "normal" but it's on the low end of normal range.  It goes up if I rev the motor.  
That is very normal. The 201 engine uses a bypass oil filter. They don't carry a lot of oil pressure.

The water temperature gauge does not work at all.  I know the low radiator hose has a slow leak.   A new one is on order.  
Are you sure the temperature gauge is not working? Some 201 engines did not use a thermostat. They used radiator shutters to control the temperature. Try using a non-contact thermometer to see if the gauge is working.
I, personally, would change both hoses and the fan belt if it has been sitting that long. You have to remove the bottom hose to replace the fan belt, so it's a good time to change everything.

Sometimes it was hard to find reverse.  I almost had to rock the tractor to get reverse to appear again. 
Again, that is normal. The WD had straight cut gears. If they were not lined up, something has to turn slightly to get it in gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2021 at 9:29am
Things I noticed:
The oil pressure gauge reads within "normal" but it's on the low end of normal range.  It goes up if I rev the motor.  

The water temperature gauge does not work at all.  I know the low radiator hose has a slow leak.   A new one is on order.  

I'm around 5'10" but my right knee is in the way of the hand clutch.  The seat seems to sort of hang to the right.  I wondered if this was correct?

Sometimes it was hard to find reverse.  I almost had to rock the tractor to get reverse to appear again.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2021 at 6:50am
Good job ! Thanks for sharing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2021 at 10:31pm
The WD finally left the shed.    I really need to hit it with a pressure washer.  I did hose it off a bit.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2021 at 3:52pm
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

ovlovwd45,
That tractor runs better than a new one! Awesome work getting it going. I love to get in and work on things in not great conditions for some reason? Just the way I grew up on the farm and around things. Doesn't bother me a bit. It really sounds good! 
Looking forward to seeing more!
 Regards,
 Chris
The dirt floor doesn't bother me.  The junk around the tractor makes it difficult to work on though.  I have to step over and around a car bumper, pallet of roofing material, air compressor, etc... just to get to the ignition side of the motor.  There's a lot of stuff half sticking out of the dirt to trip over.  

I would like to get the Roof 3 wheeled rider to the left of the AC going again.  I haven't even investigated what's wrong with its motor yet.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2021 at 3:44pm
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

Make sure you have oil pressure ! 


I will make a point of that next time I work on it.  I forgot to even look at that gauge.  There's so much junk around the tractor it's hard to move from side to the other.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2021 at 6:25am
ovlovwd45,
That tractor runs better than a new one! Awesome work getting it going. I love to get in and work on things in not great conditions for some reason? Just the way I grew up on the farm and around things. Doesn't bother me a bit. It really sounds good! 
Looking forward to seeing more!
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2021 at 6:17am
Make sure you have oil pressure ! 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 9:43pm
I did get it running today!

After installing the starter I found I had no spark.  I replaced the points and condenser.  Set the gap.  I had already replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.  Got a nice fat spark after that.

Still wouldn't start.  I finally realized the gas line was bone dry despite there being gas in the tank.  I guess there wasn't enough gas in the tank to get it flowing out of the sediment bowl?  I added some more.

After all that...

I didn't try driving it today.  I'm going to have to move a bunch of junk that's sitting behind it.  You can probably see in the video it's not the most ideal place to work on anything.  


Edited by ovlovwd45 - 21 Jun 2021 at 9:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by Steve in NJ Steve in NJ wrote:

I've been rebuilding starters for 50 years. If you're interested, you can send it here, and I'll rebuild the unit for you. If you leave it on 6V, I'll put one of our rewound arms in it and it'll spin over great on 6V. The rewound arm improves the torque output of the unit providing everything else in the system is in tip top shape.  

As I mentioned earlier, the 201 WD engine has the plate on the side of the engine. If it has a plate, its the 201 engine. If there is no plate, then the Tractor might have had a WD45 engine installed in it sometime in its life. The 226 version takes the TSX-464 Carburetor. Maybe that's why your Dad was talking to Steiner about that particular Carburetor for the Tractor.  I offer Carburetor rebuilding also.  HTH
Steve@B&B

Thanks for the offer.  I may end up taking you up on it down the road.  In the meantime I bought a remanufactured starter.  

The other one has a short I can't locate.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 9:32am
Yeah Steve does good work . He rebuilt my D 15 starter and carb . He'll also answer any questions you may have .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 9:07am
     Steve in NJ does great work; he has done a couple starters and generators for me in the past. Converted the generators to 12 volt to keep the original look. No problems whatsoever. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2021 at 6:35am
I've been rebuilding starters for 50 years. If you're interested, you can send it here, and I'll rebuild the unit for you. If you leave it on 6V, I'll put one of our rewound arms in it and it'll spin over great on 6V. The rewound arm improves the torque output of the unit providing everything else in the system is in tip top shape.  

As I mentioned earlier, the 201 WD engine has the plate on the side of the engine. If it has a plate, its the 201 engine. If there is no plate, then the Tractor might have had a WD45 engine installed in it sometime in its life. The 226 version takes the TSX-464 Carburetor. Maybe that's why your Dad was talking to Steiner about that particular Carburetor for the Tractor.  I offer Carburetor rebuilding also.  HTH
Steve@B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 5:26pm
Down State...



Up by Chit-cago...


Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 5:01pm
It seems like there must be a starter shop in your area. 

I have a local guy that does all my generator/starter work. He is not inexpensive, but he uses quality parts, does excellent work and gets it back to me quickly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 12:37pm
I don't of anybody that rebuilds them. I called one place that occasionally has old tractors in their shop and even they didn't know anyone who rebuilds them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2021 at 5:53am
ovlovwd45,
Pk you are now the starter expert almost. I would not take one and doo a rebuild but I would take it to a starter shop and have a good core rebuilt. Your issue maybe in your rebuild? or something as simple as a bad ground. There are a lot of good used starters out there. I am wishing you the best. You dad is keeping a eye on you. Make him proud! The old WD will run I just know it!
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 2:27pm
I got the starter all back together.  I tested it out before installing it and of course it does not spin at all.  I'm not sure what I did wrong.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2021 at 6:13am
Disassembly on these old tractors can be a challenge. Remember that the last WD's were built in 1953 which makes it at least 68 years old.

it sounds like you are making progress. Good luck !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2021 at 9:49pm
The used starter I purchased never arrived.  eBay refunded me the total cost.

I bought a starter rebuild kit online instead.  I have each individual part of it assembled.  I'm almost ready to do the final assembly of it.  

It's put up a fight every step of the way.  The field coil screws wouldn't budge even with an impact tool and heat.  I ended up welding misc. hardware to them and then zipping them off with the impact wrench.  

The brass? bushings didn't want to come out.  I had to use a hobby saw to cut them and then hammered them out with a chisel.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ovlovwd45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2021 at 10:30pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

If you have no spark, i would guess the POINT contacts have some contamination on them. You didnt say if it was a MAG or had a distributor and coil. Normally getting to the POINT and running something over the contact faces will wipe the corrosion off.. VERY fine sand paper, or even a dollar bill can work... sometimes.

You can also help the starter cranking by using 12 volts if you want to.. The starter does not know the difference, just spins faster ... if you do, dont have the 6 v and 12v batteries connected at the same time.

It has a distributor and coil.  It looks like it was wired so the switch in the control box could turn the ignition system on/off.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2021 at 8:51pm
If you have no spark, i would guess the POINT contacts have some contamination on them. You didnt say if it was a MAG or had a distributor and coil. Normally getting to the POINT and running something over the contact faces will wipe the corrosion off.. VERY fine sand paper, or even a dollar bill can work... sometimes.

You can also help the starter cranking by using 12 volts if you want to.. The starter does not know the difference, just spins faster ... if you do, dont have the 6 v and 12v batteries connected at the same time.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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