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hunter321 
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 Posted: 30 Sep 2022 at 4:23pm |
nowhere around me can find the front pedistal bearing once again the race said 11480w haytt nothing on the bearing im stuck and cant move forward any help is greatly appreactiaded
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hunter321
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 10:02am |
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They are slanted
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 9:27am |
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hunter321
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 9:15am |
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There might be a slant but the front is too wide to notice right now
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 9:04am |
 hunter321 wrote:
> will put the rims on the opposite way I took them off and see if they slant properly |
That will not make a difference.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 9:01am |
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the axle stub shafts are not horizontal.. they are welded together at an angle so the rims will slope out.... Either the shaft is bent or the bearings in the wheel hubs are worn , if the tires appear to be no angle outward.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 16 Sep 2022 at 8:53am |
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> will put the rims on the opposite way I took them off and see if they slant properly
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 7:31pm |
hunter321 wrote:
Are they supposed to be at a angle? If so they where
not. They are wider than the narrow front on my moms oliver 77 |
The wheels/tires should be at an angle. On a diagram of the Front
Support, I measured 5º per side tilt outward at the top of the
wheels/tires . IDK if that's exactly correct, but it's very close......could be 4.5º This is what your WD45 should look like. If not, there's something seriously wrong !
Steve is giving good advice. Start a new post for changing topics; avoids confusion and makes it easier for people to help.
steve(ill) wrote:
hunter... you really should consider making a NEW POST
everytime you stare a NEW JOB... you have 11 pages starting with dont
run / bad wires / carburetor problem..
If your really
looking at a HISTORY of EVERYTHING you are doing on the tractor and
trying to keep it in ONE LOG... i guess thats OK... but most guys would
like to see things separated by problems. |
BTW, Here's a PDF for the WD/WD45 (and some other smaller ACs)
If you don't have a manual, it would benefit you to download it onto your computer
Edited by Gatz in NE - 15 Sep 2022 at 7:35pm
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 12:43pm |
^ true.
Dad used to reverse them in the winter time when feeding cattle to prevent mud packing up inside the rims…the yards could really get messy. It even had tirescrapers. Sometimes he wouldn’t turn them around 'till late spring. That WD steering wheel just about took your hand off when discing plowed ground…. got to where I steered with a very light grip.
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hunter321
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Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 12:40pm |
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Are they supposed to be at a angle? If so they where not. They are wider than the narrow front on my moms oliver 77
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 12:30pm |
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I have no idea what you have for front wheels. OEM front wheels can be reversed BUT, on a narrow front end it will steer very hard and kick back more than leaving them narrow.
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hunter321
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Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 12:09pm |
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are the front rims reversable
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 4:13pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 4:08pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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hunter321
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Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 3:55pm |
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What oil do I put in the final drives and how
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hunter321
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Posted: 03 Sep 2022 at 12:14pm |
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I got the race out and it had the numbers 11480w
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:29pm |
hunter... you really should consider making a NEW POST everytime you stare a NEW JOB... you have 11 pages starting with dont run / bad wires / carburetor problem..
If your really looking at a HISTORY of EVERYTHING you are doing on the tractor and trying to keep it in ONE LOG... i guess thats OK... but most guys would like to see things separated by problems.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 7:50pm |
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Remove the cotter pin on the spring. Remove the bolt that holds the reinforcing bracket. Pull the cranking shaft as far forward as possible collapsing the spring. Clamp a vise grips on the front side to hold it there. Drive out the pin OR grind the pin off flush and pull the shaft thru and install a new pin when reassembling.
Edited by DrAllis - 01 Sep 2022 at 8:41pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 1:25pm |
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is there a special way to remove it
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 1:22pm |
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YES.
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 1:20pm |
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do i need to remove the crank start shaft as well
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 12:23pm |
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You've apparently got the wheel spindles off the bottom, right ?? Remove the square cover ahead of the radiator and grab ahold of the greasy/slimy steering gear and shaft and lift it up and out of the front support. Probably has to be in the center of the steering range for the gear to clear.
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 12:05pm |
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What needs to be done to pull those things
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DrAllis
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 11:45am |
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Pull the steering gear and shaft up thru the top. Then reach down inside with a shaft long enough to get behind the cups inner edge and drive it downward.
Edited by DrAllis - 01 Sep 2022 at 11:45am
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 11:44am |
hunter is having a tough time with this. Is the race damaged? If it's not, it may be OK as is. This is not a high-speed application.
It would help if you could post pix of what you're up against. I'm thinking the shaft will have to come out to gain access to that outer race, regardless of the method of removal if needed.
Once the shaft is out, there should be areas below the race in the main casting that are recessed and would allow a long punch or drift to knock it out. Alternate from side to side as you drive it out.
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 11:16am |
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Is there anything I can make to get the race out
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:58am |
steve(ill) wrote:
That should work to CUT the race... I think what he has is the rollers and inner race out... and is left with the outer race still in the bore... but the SHAFT is still in the tube.???? . He has minimal clearance between the outer race and the shaft down the center.... It can be done with the shaft in the bore... but very careful........ Normally you remove the shaft.
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Well. . . .maybe. . . .I don't know. If you can't get a flame in there, how in the heck would he have thought he could get a slide hammer in there?  Maybe some dynamite would be in order? 
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:39am |
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That should work to CUT the race... I think what he has is the rollers and inner race out... and is left with the outer race still in the bore... but the SHAFT is still in the tube.???? . He has minimal clearance between the outer race and the shaft down the center.... It can be done with the shaft in the bore... but very careful........ Normally you remove the shaft.
Edited by steve(ill) - 01 Sep 2022 at 8:42am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:29am |
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Not frustrated, not me anyway. Of all the suggestions, what exactly did you try? Will the torch you have cut steel or no? If you have never tried it, go cut some piece of scrap or a bolt or something so that you see what it takes, see how much fuel / how much oxygen is needed by adjusting the valves. As I said, I don't have a great visual of where you're trying to get to, but it's hard for me to picture a race you can't get to with a flame. You should be able to cut it in two, and get it out, or at least cut a notch out of it so you can chisel it, grab it , whatever. But while you're cutting, might as well cut it in two and get it out of there.
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hunter321
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Posted: 01 Sep 2022 at 8:09am |
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Ok the pedestal is still on the tractor and is holding up part of the loader so I can't remove it. I have tried what you said to try but nothing is working I don't know what to do.
Sorry if all the questions are frustrating you
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