wiring

Yes, it is possible for a gas line to be plugged.  A quick check is to take a quart jar or such to catch gas in, and remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carburetor bowl and see how much gas you catch in the jar in two minutes.  You should get at least a pint.  If it doesn't flow that much in a steady stream you will need to drain the tank and start checking for a blockage.  It may be plugged right in the sediment bowl housing above the tank shutoff valve.  You have to remove the sediment bowl housing to check and clean it correctly.  I have fixed a number that were plugged in that location.  Blowing back through the gas line can open it up for as while ( the air can also blow the sediment bowl gasket out), but if the tank is dirty in will plug again. 

If you don't have a compression tester available you can squirt a little gas in each cylinder then install the plugs and try to start it. If it runs for a couple of seconds then you have enough compression for it to run and then I would look at the carburetor next.

He said the final drive seal

As Steve said, try some ATF in the cylinders to loosen things up. A compression gauge would tell you a lot. When you turn it over with a crank, does it seem that each turn takes equal force?

My grandpa said a seal went bad

Ok, sounds like you don't need a coil, you agree?

Compression is made by the mechanical the action of the pistons and valves. Do you have, or can you borrow, a compression test gauge? It is best to actually check compression with a gauge, not guess. A gauge can tell you if there is one of more bad cylinders. After setting 14 years rings or valves could be stuck. There are is a way to get an indication of the problem possibly being rings or valves. So can you get a gauge and do you know how to do a compression test.

Do you know why it was parked 14 years ago?

Ok, remember I can not see what you did or what you are seeing. Can you explain what you mean by "the points are working"? Did you check using the flashing test light method to see that they are making and breaking as the engine is cranked over? Fill us in, you are our eyes on this.

Put a plug wire in the coil tower and hook a plug to it. Ground the plug to the engine block and crank the engine over. Do you see a spark at the plug electrodes as the engine is cranking? If you remove the plug, slide the plug boot back and expose the clip that slides on the plug, you should be able to hold that clip about 1/4" from the block and the spark should be bluish white and jump that gap. If it does your coil is ok. Be careful if the insulation on the plug site is bad you could get a shock. Best to hold it with insulated handle pliers, if you have them. Let us know how this goes.

Ok

so I should clean the points and see if they are opening correctly

Ok

I was going to order this

If you replace the coil, the point and the condenser, you should be in good shape... If you want to try the coil only, that is a good first step, but drag some fine sand paper or etc thru the point faces to make sure there is no CORROSION on the faces.. Setting for 14 years is almost 100% guarantee of some contamination on the faces.

Me and my dad think it is the coil or the distributor or the
Sparkplug wires

Now that you say it is 6 volts, that makes me question the coil... It may be VERY OLD ?  Still need to check the point for clean first.

Should I have 6 volts because it is a 6 volt system