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What Kind of implements will my Allis B take? |
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Posted: 22 Feb 2020 at 3:45pm |
K, all good stuff to know
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810 |
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If you don't have a hole for a starter in your bell housing, you probably don't have a flywheel machined to take a ring gear. So different torque tube, different flywheel(maybe) ring gear, and the toolbox is too long to put a battery box on top of the torque tube.
If you did convert it, I would find a different toolbox and not cut that one down. Then you would have room to mount the battery box. My 38 B didn't get regular use, but the years I had it, it never failed to start on the 2nd or 3rd quarter turn of the crank. WAY simpler than keeping a battery in it charged up. |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592 |
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Don't rush into coverting it to electric. I hated my 39B to begin with but after I got all set it does crank start pretty good. Everytime it crank starts I think about what I did to make it work. (had to do alot more than you did. Bought as a non runner) Something satisfying when it goes. But that B is not much of a working tractor. Good luck and enjoy it!
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 50529 |
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You could try a starter generator off an old cub lawn tractor, but I'm not sure it would have the torque to spin the motor. Otherwise, you would have to get the torque tube and ring gear, off an electric start B, and assemble (big job)...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Yes very happy, does anyone know any electric start kits that I can buy for Hallie (that is what I named the b), thanks in advance
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592 |
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Good to hear!! Nothing more exciting than one fires up.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810 |
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Good deal.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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good news, got it started up today! adjusted the space between which the spark has to jump, it is now running. as soon as i run out of fuel i will be installing a new sedimint bowl assembly, love my little tractor
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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Bill Long
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556 |
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Congratulations!!! You have obtained my favorite Allis Chalmers Tractor - the B. The information above is very accurate and most helpful.
I can only add as you now know you will find this forum to be most helpful to any of your questions - especially on the B. As to the hydraulics facing forward check the right side of the PTO. You should have either a plate bolted on, a blank area - if so no Hydraulics - or a hydraulic pump. If you want implements you would need to find a plow, perhaps a cultivator, a snow plow blade, and a mounted rotary mower. They are available but can be hard to find Take good care of my favorite. Good Luck! Bill Long ps: a picture of my son and I with Mr. Lupno's B with a mounted cultivator. |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77742 |
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Your best bet for good/ quick operation is to do a basic tune up... New spark plugs / maybe new wires / make sure they dont have cracks or shorting out / check mag timing "SNAP" to crank TDC / fix any fuel leaks / make sure you have new gas / air cleaner cleaned out / throttle rod adjusted to carburetor max/ min .
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 77742 |
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Two things can happen with the sickle mower.. ONE is you can move the lever when the sickle is vertical and that will cause it to try to roatate and break the stick ( or something).. the SECOND is you can bump the sickle and the blades can shift slightly in the bar and PINCH or CUT something..... If you remove the belt on the back pulley, then you can run the pto and test, and run the hydraulics if you have them, without worrying about the sickle being powered.....Second is keeping the teeth/ cutters from moving on the bar... You can slide the drain tile over the bar as you said... i have a plywood bracket with a couple WOOD teeth that sets on the bar and in between a couple teeth and i strap it on with a bungie cord, to keep the teeth/ cutters from shifting.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592 |
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nvxDDuq8gSc9ex2Y4n4wH3OWvMt8Foeb/view Try this link. Also Gerald J has them online and I would think he would chime in. One other thing-looking at the video of your tractor I didn't see a lever for a hydraulic pump. I see the pto lever but not a hydraulic lever. Maybe I missed it.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Does anyone know where I can buy or download the manual so I can lean about the machine more
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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TimNearFortWorth
Orange Level Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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Have you found a manual/ops instructions yet?
Do yourself a favor and get the info, and study it as you will be more comfortable with the unit, and more safe. Go slow with initial operation until you get to know the proper operation of the tractor as the little ones can get you into trouble just like a bigger one . . . .
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Ok, yeah right now it will pull start (didn't get it though when rolling of the trailer) hopefully will get my problems fixed Friday, with flooded engine I just let sit? Or should I turn fuel off and crank it (like I was hot starting it
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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ac fleet
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jan 2014 Location: Arrowsmith, ILL Points: 2204 |
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I have a 38 and the only way it will start is to pull start it. --only time it did start with crank was when I backed it off the truck when I brought it home. Mine has the 1-row cultivator on it.
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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Alberta Phil
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3651 |
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Welcome to the Forum, Braedon. I have a '39 B like yours. The little lever on the carb is the choke, It blocks off most of the air flow to give a much richer mixture for starting, Lever down is full choke and lever up is off. As has been suggested, remove the connecting hose and watch the choke flap as you move the lever to see what we are talking about. To start mine, I turn on the fuel at the sediment bowl by turning it out to the stop. Give it a minute to fill the carb bowl. Set the throttle about 1/3 way up the quadrant. ( Where you set yours is about right). Set the little choke lever on the carb so it points down. Usually one pull over the top with the crank (thumb on same side as fingers!). Then flip choke lever up level and another pull over the top with the crank and it's usually running. Depending on temperature, it may require a little more choke until it warms up a little. What you show in your video cranking with the choke on 'til gas leaks out will usually result in flooding. When it gets flooded (far too much gas in the cylinders) it won't start until you clear it. If that happens to mine, I shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl and walk away for a while. Then come back and crank it with the throttle set wide open and NO choke. When it fires and runs, then quickly turn on the fuel at the sediment bowl, then back off on the throttle. If you need to start it again after it's been running and the engine is warm, you probably don't need to turn the choke lever down, just crank it with the choke open. Hope this helps to get it started!! Good Luck.
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Yeah I will crank with just fingers, I haven't had it running since I bought it yesterday but Friday the guy who actually drove it will be coming out to hopefully help me, it has some mag problems and doesn't always crank start, it also has a small fuel leak and will hopefully get a new sediment bowl for it today
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2592 |
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First I like looks of your tractor. When crank starting never wrap your thumb around the crank. Pull the crank with your fingers only in case it back fires. I have found that they all seem to have a different preference to how they will start. Do you have a kill switch? Spark and good gas flow? Do a search on crank starting a B. Have you had it running at all?
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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Ok thanks, yeah I might use it every now and then (the sickel) but mostly just for going to shows, yeah I like how you put it, treating it as if it were a gun think the cheapest option for me is a drain pipe cover, (saftey reliability at the show, lots of young kids go there and sometimes chase each other round the Tractors
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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CrestonM
Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8357 |
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I don't want to say they're wrong about a sickle mower being dangerous, because they can be, but unless it's going to shows, I don't see a need for a fancy cover if you just treat it like a loaded gun and be mindful of where you place your hands. When folding my mower up and letting it down, I only place my hands on the skid plate/swath board on the end of the mower. It's about the safest place as it's easy to hold on to and there's no blade very close.
I vouch for sticking to pull type implements or using mounted implements specifically made for the B. The reason for that being the B was not designed for 3pt like the Ford N-series was, and on a B, the design of all the 3pt kits places the ends of the lift arms wayyy far back. That places all the weight far from the tractor, causing the tractor to tip back much more easily. Yes, you can add a bunch of weight to the front end to counteract that. It's all preference I guess.
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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will a drainage pipe work just as good to cover the sickel? ive seen setups like it
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 50529 |
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Re your questions, in the video, choke is the little lever, on the carb, take the air cleaner hose off, and look inside the carb, to see which way is on or off. Do it this way, once, then take a paint marker and write on where the lever lands, when closed. Next, the fuel shut off should be ccw, to be open, if its a factory fuel bowl. Next, take the fuel line off, and check for positive fuel flow, at the carb. If no fuel flow, take the sediment bowl off, and check if the fuel comes down and out in 2 free flowing streams... If no flow, take the whole sediment bowl assembly off, and see what's caught in the fuel inlet screen... A word of caution, respect gas for what it is. When possible, work outside, and have buckets for collecting any fuel you drain. Likewise, have a fire extinguisher of the appropriate type handy. As to starting and running position of the throttle, answer is, have it at the lowest setting that does the job. On a new to me tractor, I always start low, cause it kicks less, on the crank, if it ain't wide open... Good luck, and let us know how work progresses...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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https://youtu.be/1oo-X5yKSwA here is the link to the video of it, forgot to mention it has some magneto problems, was told it wont always crank start, was told that can adjust the spark or something
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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thank you everyone, yes i will be careful with my sickle, or should i say "Rabbid Gun" lol. just picked up the tractor today, having trouble starting it up thought, not sure what i am doing wrong (i will post a video of it on my youtube channel and see if someone can tell me what i am doing wrong, not sure if i will end up getting 3 point for it though, maybe just some pull type implements, i will go shoot some video of it and give the link to the video. yeah ive watched some videos on the videos and they are little beasts.
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21466 |
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re: Treat the sickle bar like it's an unstable stepchild born from the crossbreeding of an automatic rifle with a samurai sword!!! probably the BEST description for it !!!!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Rhoadesy_65
Bronze Level Joined: 28 Jul 2019 Location: Versailles, OH Points: 147 |
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Welcome to the forum Braedon. Good to see more young guys on here to keep the forum going. Like creston said you might be the youngest as both of us are 21, might be a couple other of us here somewhere. Always be thinking one step ahead when using a tractor without live PTO, especially when you have something hooked up like a brush hog. It will push the tractor forward even after you hit the clutch unless you get an overrunning clutch. Our baler has one built in and it makes a huge difference when running it with the D-19 or the H. Also may want to stick to drawn implements as much as possible.
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Farmin' with 1981 7010 PD, Great Grandpas 1947 Farmall H, JD 7000 planter, JD model B drill, NH 316 Baler, NH 1411 Discbine ,JD 100 8 Shank Chisel. Darke County OH
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Wayne180d
Orange Level Joined: 08 Dec 2015 Location: Gilman, Il Points: 5923 |
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Bill Long will be ecstatic you bought his favorite tractor.
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5637 |
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Just to clarify, Braedon- 1) You got a GREAT tractor- The first Allis I ever operated, was my grandfather's D17, pulling a hay rake at around 10yrs old. The first Allis I ever owned, was a '48B with hydraulics, and I still have it. 2) I have a '38 hand-start B, looks just like yours, it has a PTO, but no hydraulics. There's a reason why they had hand-start, no lights, and no hydraulics, and there were many (not just Allis, but ALL tractors of this vintage) that were hand-start, but with battery, generator, and lights... and there's historical reasons why they were that way. Learning the socioeconomic and industrial circumstances of the time will open your eyes to things you cannot imagine, so be ready to learn some very fascinating things. 3) Treat the sickle bar like it's an unstable stepchild born from the crossbreeding of an automatic rifle with a samurai sword!!!! Just sitting there, it's downright dangerous, and I know guys that CANNOT COUNT enough reasons to exercise caution, because they lost fingers doin' it. The blade will move when you least expect it, so NEVER EVER EVER allow ANYTHING in that blade, that you don't want swept into a garbage bag, okay? Lowering the blade changes relative position between the pitman and sickle, hence, the blade will move inside the sickle bar. Bumping the drive will move the bar. Shifting the PTO will move the bar. Passing gas whilst whistling Fur Elise in the wrong key... will move the bar. Do yourself, and everyone around TWO big favors- First- Cut some planks and plywood, make a nice scabbard that fits over that sickle bar so NOTHING can get in there. it'll protect the bar, and everyone, everything, etc., around. Second- remove the wooden pitman arm, make a pattern of it, paying close attention to the grain direction and wood type... take it to someone who's a good woodworker, and have them work with you to make a couple extras. -- IF you can make a fixture in your scabbard that will allow you to remove the pitman arm AND use the scabbard to LOCK the sickle blade in position, all the better! -- Put a holder of some type on the scabbard to store the pitman arm, and a couple extra sickle teeth, and some rivets, and a hammer and rivet-set anvil. If you want a super-cool-factor, sand the scabbard, paint a manufacturer's emblem on the wood, Put a good agricultural-coat of varnish on it, then drag it up and down the yard behind your lawnmower to distress it... then clean it up, put it on, and let everyone try to figure out wether it's stock and original. Your Allis B's 3 point limitation will come first-and-foremost as a function of the amount of weight on the nose. They're powerful, but light little tractors, it won't take much load behind to have you looking at the moon. They will out-pull some of the meanest mules you'd ever meet. With ballast in the tires, and chains on it, you should worry about the strength of your draft components- shackles, chain, etc., and of course the fasteners holding the drawbar on. I use mine to pull trees, and have surprised many by hooking on things they wouldn't dream it being able. But realize that the B's function was to bring engine-driven power to farms that were previously done by 1 or 2 strong draft horses. They'd work a field, but what they were REALLY good at, is economical handywork. It will very easily pull an 8-bottom plow... ... down a mile of gravel road to the D21 waiting there... It's excellent for rounding up a half-dozen empty hay wagons and shuffling 'em down the hill to gather up this morning's bales. It'll pull a smallish gravity box over good ground to top off a feeder... and it'll run the auger to fill it, too. It'll run a small plot plow, a small cultivator, pull a pair of 4 foot spike drags, a small disc, or a small planter, and it'll maneuver through narrow trees to get to the feed plot. Unlike a Ford N, the Allis B is actually strong enough to break things, so keep that in mind when you're feeling a bit over-enthusiastic. Oh, DO get an overrunning clutch on the PTO- it'll keep you from having to extract yourself from a barbed-wire fence or low-hanging tree branch.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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BraedonAllisB
Bronze Level Joined: 16 Feb 2020 Location: Lynden WA Points: 56 |
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ok, just wanted to make sure i shouldent ditch the tractor and run, agaian first time on a tractor like this and trying to learn as much as i can about it
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1940 B
19__ WD |
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