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matador 
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Location: Wyoming
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 Topic: Tractor Moving Trailer
Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 11:13pm |
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Would a flatbed truck with ramps to put the tractor on, pulling the baler on a hitch, be an option? I don't know if you can find a good older truck to modify, but I'd think that could be a slick little setup. You'd be pulling the baler only, since the tractor would be chained down on the truck
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 30 Jan 2021 at 11:38am |
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When my brother had to mow 1500 acres 80 miles away him and the farmer both drove tractors with 21' bat wing mowers and towed a ford ranger behind one of the mowers. They drove the truck back and forth and had a service tank in it. Took them 3 days but well compensated it was a forest service job.most farmers around here have a tow bar on at least one service truck and a hitch on the back of their implements. A lot of the fields we work are 20 miles from the farm so when we move to a differant set of field we leave the tractors and equipment there and drive a farm truck back and forth. We have service tanks in a couple trucks and fuel every day. The tractors start out with 400 gallons in tank when they leave the yard. A service tank only hold a hundered gallons so you can't let the tractor run out.
Edited by Dakota Dave - 30 Jan 2021 at 11:44am
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 9:46pm |
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....and then there was the story about the guy who built a trailer with a live axle connected to his pto and once he got her going he engaged the pto and put tractor in neutral....ZOOM!!!
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john(MI)
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Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 8:32pm |
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If you decide to tow like you are proposing, you must do one of two things. If you go over 25 mph you must remove your SMV placards. or if you leave them on you cannot exceed 25 mph.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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DiyDave
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Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 6:36pm |
Drive the tractor to the site, with a mini-bike strapped to the back of whatever implement you're towing. Ride the bike back to get the truck... 
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 6:47am |
reading this again and have another solution.. . you haul tractor using your truck with your trailer.. a 'buddy' hauls the hay rake(or whatever implement) on HIS trailer behind HIS truck. That way you get everything there and be haying while buddy drives back home.
everybody wins, everything's legal ,everyone's SAFE !
Jay
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Radiant
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Posted: 28 Jan 2021 at 5:01am |
I think that accidents happen because of our stupidity, so these 2 are pretty the same. I'm not a tractor driver but I guess that the rules are pretty the same. Before you want to start driving you have to check your vehicle, easy no?! Moving a trailer is not so easy that is why you have to be more careful. You know this reminds me of the accident that I had while moving to a new house. I lost all my furniture. I wanted to save some money and asked for help a cheap moving company for help. They had some problems with their car and as a result, they had an accident and destroyed everything that I had. Since then I learned how to move oversized furniture and do it by myself. Take care!
Edited by Radiant - 01 Feb 2021 at 1:38am
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Fred in Pa
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Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 7:46am |
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Think about why more then 50% of bad accidents happen close to home , Accidents and stupid are 2 different things.
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 9:34am |
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That's leagle in 28 states. If it's leagle in the state your plated in its also leagle for you to tow within 10 miles of the interstate of any other state. Here in North Dakota it must be under 70' total length. And we are on of the very few states that allows double towing with to bumper pull units. First trailer must have brakes. Second must have brakes if over 3000 lbs. most states the first trailer must be a 5 th wheel. A gooseneck doesn't cut it.
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JohnCO
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Posted: 27 Jun 2019 at 12:04am |
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I see fifth wheel campers pulled by a 3/4 pickup with a boat trailer or atv trailer towed behind the 5th wheel. No brakes on the 2d trailer. This is on I70 through the Rockies.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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bradley6874
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Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 12:44pm |
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You’re right a lot of it has to do with location we are halfway between the politicians and the beach and on the East Coast we’re all north-south trucks run
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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festus51
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Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 12:41pm |
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bradley-- I think part of the problem is you live MD where police are more strict because of more people. Here in plains states and mid west less people and police are accustom to seeing farmers tow big machines and wide machines. I just have never been harassed by police for any of my farming operations. JMHO
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We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 10:09am |
Wherever you are, get a copy or download the 'Highway Traffic Act' or whatever it's called. Up here in Ontario, I can pull any kind of 'trailer' with anything and as long as it has SMV on the back and I go under 40Km( 24MPH) I can be on any road,,except the '400' series. No trailer plate, no ownership, no lights(daytime).
Jay
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bradley6874
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Posted: 26 Jun 2019 at 8:05am |
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Dave in Maryland! If it has a ball hitch it’s not a farm trailer it has to be taged and lighted if it has a pin hitch it’s farm equipment.. we just went through this with hay wagons we started putting ball couplers on ( for safety we haul 275 bales per load of straw) and lights dot cop stoped us and advised us to go back to the pin otherwise they need tags lights and brakes on a 4 wheel wagon I asked about the three axel trailer he said put a pin hitch and an smv sign and go on haul any thing farm related
Edited by bradley6874 - 26 Jun 2019 at 8:58am
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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joelsplace
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Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 10:40pm |
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Thanks for the voice of reason DaveKamp.
Like the signature.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 10:21pm |
This all falls under 'transportation of implements of husbandry'.
Depending on the location and circumstances, and the road type, it may be perfectly legal to do as noted above, with the obvious attention to basic safety precautions.
The SPEED is a key factor. If you keep below the SMV definitions of your Authority Having Jurisdiction, you're operating under SMV rules, regardless of what you're PULLING it all with. If you exceed SMV speed rules, then you're no longer an SMV.
An "implement of husbandry" has a special exemption... it is not a 'road going' vehicle, it is a machine, which is on a public road simply for thoroughfare from one work-site or storage or service facility, to another.
A 'Farmer' is an individual who is personally invested in agrarian production. Could be chickens, cotton, beans, horses, or honeybees. Farmers often own land, but it's not a requirement to be in the category, as farmers can lease land, OR, they can contract or share-crop... but in all cases, the definition of 'Farmer' generally always includes exemptions of road travel.
For instance, when I was 15, it was my responsibility to drive a monsterous 6cyl Cummins 6x6 road tractor pulling 5 hay racks from my grandfather's south fields up to county highway, about a half mile along same highway, then up the long hill county gravel road to my uncle's hay barn. None of those trailers had brakes, or lights... and the operator did not have a driver's license, much less a CDL, or airbrake endorsement... but it was totally legal.
It was also totally legal for me to drive the Gleaner from the farm, 3 miles into town, a mile thorugh town, to the implement dealer... WITH the corn header installed... WITHOUT an oversize permit.
Re-ask the question- Let's say you have a 'faster' tractor, and you rig up a hitch that'd hook from the faster tractor's 3-point, to the nose of your haymaking tractor, and the bailer was still hitched to the back, and you towed the whole rig from one field to the other at 23mph... would THAT be legal? If you put the haymaking tractor on a farm trailer, and towed the whole rig with a faster farm tractor, would THAT be?
Certainly.
Towing it with any OTHER vehicle is no different... just as long as you respect your jurisdiction's prescribed Envelope Of Operation for Slow Moving Vehicles.
From a technical standpoint, I would NOT flat-tow a tractor, or nose-tow it (back wheels on ground) at any speed substantially above what it would 'normally' operate at on it's own, for simple reason- the gear reductions between axle and transmission would be spinning substantially faster than designed, and may fling off oil before being adequately lubricated.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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bradley6874
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Posted: 25 Jun 2019 at 10:49am |
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Around here to chicken House crusting crews they used to do that they used a short trailer with no ramps and cruster Ran on the road behind them DOT burnt them that is a $500 ticket then they all bought 40 foot trailers and then DOT got them again they’re trucks weren’t heavy enough or their license wasn’t right for that class truck and weight now they all use single axle road tractors
Edited by bradley6874 - 25 Jun 2019 at 12:02pm
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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gerkendave
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Posted: 24 Jun 2019 at 7:41pm |
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That's great to hear ACFarmer. Some of these responses made me feel like a fool to even dream of it. I can't help but to think a flatbed trailer with the axle towards the rear and brakes wouldn't be just as safe or safer than driving the old tractor by itself with the baler. But just like lots of my ideas it is something that I probably will never get around to making thanks to time constraints 😂
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ACFarmer
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Posted: 23 Jun 2019 at 7:36pm |
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They make trailers that do exactly what you are talking about. Seems they are more popular out in the south west with hay growers. Ive seen quite a few pictures of them on a hay making facebook page.
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Making A living everyday farming with and working on Allis Equipment
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WF owner
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 9:57pm |
After looking at my previous post, I realize I was pretty vague.
When we had the farm, it was covered by our farm liability. After we sold the farm, I have only homeowners insurance. I have tractors that we do parades, hayrides and things like that. That was what got me thinking about insurance coverage.
In 2011, I bought a new subcompact tractor and wanted full coverage on it (liability and comprehensive). That's when I added full coverage on the new tractor and the liability insurance on the other tractors.
If you have farm liability, you are probably already covered, but it's certainly worth a call to your insurance agent to be sure!
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victoryallis
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 9:48pm |
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How far are you talking? We are pushing 12 miles from furthest west to east fields it’s not that bad of a drive. The OPs idea is scary.
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WF owner
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 9:33pm |
 GregStremel wrote:
Regarding hayrides, I specifically talked with my insurance agent.. I confirmed it with text message that I was covered. If my agent is wrong, then I am covered by her errors and omissions insurance. She checked with the company before telling me.
It is a fact of life today that you must have adequate insurance. If not adequately nsured, then you can loose everything if ther is an accident. |
There is currently an active thread on the AC Facebook page discussing this.
I have an addendum on my homeowners policy that is called "Motorized Vehicle Liability Coverage". It costs me $46 per year (up from $38 when I first got it in 2011). It states "Farm/Garden Tractors & Equipment".
My feeling is if they charge for it as an addendum, if you don't have it, you aren't covered. My opinion is that it is pretty cheap for peace of mind.
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GregStremel
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 9:02pm |
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Regarding hayrides, I specifically talked with my insurance agent.. I confirmed it with text message that I was covered. If my agent is wrong, then I am covered by her errors and omissions insurance. She checked with the company before telling me.
It is a fact of life today that you must have adequate insurance. If not adequately nsured, then you can loose everything if ther is an accident.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:58pm |
You don't say what distance or type of roads but I'm assuming short hauls and country roads ? I don't have a technical problem with using a car dolly to tow the tractor which is hauling the baler PROVIDING the baler has a safety chain attached to the tractor AND some 4way flashing lights. I've hauled a D-14 on a car dolly, zero problems, again I did have 4ways on it. This was about 25 miles, kinda busy secondary road, rather hilly as I recall. Road laws vary ,so check with local LEOs about 'two trailer' towing. Having SMV signs on both might get around some laws.
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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WF owner
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Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:44pm |
What you are thinking of doing may sound like a good idea (to you), but I'm sure a law enforcement officer will surely convince you that it is not such a great idea. You will endangering everyone on your route of travel by having a tractor that is not secured to the trailer correctly and towing implements without brakes behind a trailer.
I just hope you don't hurt or kill someone before they stop you!
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 7:57pm |
Yep, insurance. We won't even have a hayride at the farm. What a shame. Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Bradleytrench
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Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 6:53pm |
 Problem solved. Spend $65000 for a tractor with a 2 line wet kit, $90,000 for a trailer. Oversize permit $27. Commercial insurance $24000 per year. Usdot #. You can haul anything you want. Pulling a bumper hitch trailer weighting 4200 lbs with a 3/4 or 1 ton with a tractor weighting in around 8000lbs tied down with a 8000lbs baler hooked to tractor is a USDOT inspectors steak dinner. First off you cant pull double trailers "bumper hitch trailer with a baler behind it not even attached to trailer" on a ball. 2nd off you dont have a brake on your back trailer "baler." Or proper break away brake. Call your insurance company and ask them if they will insure such a mess if you are involved in a wreck? That should answer your question right there
Edited by Bradleytrench - 21 Jun 2019 at 7:00pm
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 11:14am |
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and no a car dolly isn't heavy enough for a 190. a 190 is twice the weight of a car dolly tow rating. you'd still have tractor tires on the road and be speed limited by them.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 11:11am |
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Any thing hooked to the back of your truck must meet DOT requirements. Brakes if over 3000 lbs not more than 8'6" wide and proper lights. and single unit unless you state allows multi unit trailering. Best to just drive it. We drive 20 miles it only takes an hour and 20 minutes at 15 MPH. it takes longer than that to properly load and secure a load. put a hitch on the back of your equipment and tow the truck behind. you can then leave the tractor and equipment behind. just slap t SMV sign on the towed truck. remember to take the sign off when you unhook.
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gerkendave
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Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 11:00am |
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Do you think a car dolly is stout enough to move a tractor around safely?
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