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Allis-Chalmers Damon 
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Joined: 13 Apr 2015
Location: Deer Park, WA
Points: 108
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 Topic: A couple questions on my D14
Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 11:57am |
Hello all,
I have a 1959 D14. Great grandpa owned an Allis Dealership in the 50's and it has been in the family ever since. It is all original and has never been rebuilt...the main problem is that my grandpa is not the most savvy mechanical or maintenance guy so I want to get it tuned up again.
A few questions I have are...
Is there a clutch adjustment that can be done? The clutch works fine right now, but every time I go to shift gears it grinds slightly before going into the correct gear. I always stop before shifting and have the hand clutch in neutral. It seems to me the clutch is not fully engaging. I am pretty mechanical and have read the manuals, but I enjoy getting opinions on here before I dig in...
Along the same lines, I notice when I put the transmission in neutral and let out on the clutch, I can hear something turning in the transmission area like it is not fully in neutral. The tractor also acts like its working a little hard when I let out of the clutch in neutral because something is turning... Is this pretty normal for these tractors?
The tractor is in great shape and I hope to keep it that way, below is a picture of the D14 and WD45D for a visual!
Thanks! 
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1955 WD45 Diesel, 1959 D14, All-Crop Drill, 2015 John Deere 5075e, New Holland 279 Haybine, New Holland 575 square baler, New Holland 1032 Stackliner, 10ft Industrias Disc, 6ft Titan grapple
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 25242
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 12:55pm |
If you look at the clutch pedal and the rod, you'll see how to adjust it. From memory, you need to disconnect te rod from the pedal, then turn the rod one way or the other, to lengthen or shorten it. You need 1-2" 'free play' (before clutch engages) ? I'm thinking the clutch is at it's end of life. When you do goto replace it ALSO replace the throwout bearing AND the pilot bushing as the tractor is 'split' anyways. And... be sure the throwout bearing 'fork' is on the CLUTCH side of a cast tab NOT the engine side of the tab whe you go to put tractor back together. When you do this, post a message as there's a few safety things and 'helpful hints' we can offer....
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Jim.ME
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 972
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 1:18pm |
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Welcome,
Yes there is an engine (foot) clutch adjustment. You say you read the manuals, so you should have seen the engine clutch adjustment procedure. If your clutch pedal free play is not as specified in the manual you should adjust it.
There is an adjustment procedure to the power director (hand clutch as you called it), but those seldom need adjustment since they run in oil.
There is no need to put the power direct in neutral to shift. Slow the engine rpms, push the clutch pedal to disengage the engine clutch, and wait a few seconds for things to stop turning, or it will grind going into gear.
As for noise be sure the PTO (and belt pulley if it has one) is fully disengaged. They do make some noise setting in neutral running. It is hard to say without hearing it if yours is normal or not. Make sure the lift (lower) hydraulic lever is not locked in the upper detent. It should be in the center when not lifting or lowering the arms, as explained in the operator's manual. If locked in the upper detent it will load the engine as the pump is putting pressure to the lift cylinder. HTH
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Allis-Chalmers Damon
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Joined: 13 Apr 2015
Location: Deer Park, WA
Points: 108
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 2:27pm |
Thanks for the reply guys, great information. I just reviewed the owners manual again and noticed the clutch adjustment on the pedal. I will start there....
I also suspect the noise I am hearing in neutral is from having a load on the pump...I believe the lift arms are locked in the upper position as I do not currently have the mower attached to it and I try to keep them out of the way. That makes sense.
Edited by Allis-Chalmers Damon - 19 Apr 2019 at 2:31pm
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1955 WD45 Diesel, 1959 D14, All-Crop Drill, 2015 John Deere 5075e, New Holland 279 Haybine, New Holland 575 square baler, New Holland 1032 Stackliner, 10ft Industrias Disc, 6ft Titan grapple
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Jim.ME
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Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 4:04pm |
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Look the operation of the hydraulic system over in the Operator's manual. You should lift the arms up then move the lever back towards center. The arms will stay up (may settle some after a time, if so just bump them up again) in the hold position without the pump keeping them under pressure.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 5:54pm |
gear grinding is standard, iffn you're in a hurry. Remember these are straight cut gears, with no synchronizers on them... 
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Tim NH
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Joined: 16 Oct 2012
Location: Lancaster NH
Points: 1154
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Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 6:47pm |
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The noise your hearing is the hydraulic pump. It gets louder when you raise the 3pt arms up. When the arms are up where you want, pull the lever back down some to take the pump out. My D14 does not jump out of gear. If I can't put it in gear, I may have to push clutch in and out maybe 4 times, till it goes in gear w/ out grinding. Tim
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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