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Don(MO) 
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 Posted: 12 Jan 2019 at 6:38am |
 Allis Wd45 wrote:
I also Noticed that the Timing Cover isnt perfectly lined up with the bottom of the engine block. Does this mean that the cover isnt aligned correctly? |
No, but it needs to have the same alignment side to side of the block , the cover can be lower or higher than the block just needs to be the same misalignment on both sides of block. Most of the time it will be about the same alignment.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 11 Jan 2019 at 8:47pm |
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I also Noticed that the Timing Cover isnt perfectly lined up with the bottom of the engine block. Does this mean that the cover isnt aligned correctly?
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 11 Jan 2019 at 8:45am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Hummm, I dont think I ever set the gear backlash on the governor housing? Something else to learn about!:) Regards, Chris |
Don't feel bad Chris most don't know to check them. Call me sometime and I'll help you will the setting of it.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm |
Hummm, I dont think I ever set the gear backlash on the governor housing? Something else to learn about! :) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 8:18am |
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Chris is right about shimming on the mains will change the center line of the engine. The seal will not line the cover to the crankshaft because the spring in the seal is not strong enough to hold the weight of the cover up. If you had a let's say a D17 gas 226 engine cover off you'd find lining pins on the front of the engine because the engine doesn't use shims. It's just like the governor housing needs to have the gear back-lash set too, the older engines are not like a new engine, the older engines where built to be adjusted was they wear.
Edited by Don(MO) - 09 Jan 2019 at 8:20am
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Ranse
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Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 6:07am |
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I figured the holes had to be intentionally over sized. Now this my be a dumb question, but why couldn't you put the seal in the cover first? That way you use the seal itself to alien the cover. Just simply slip it on the shaft, install the bolts and tighten. I'm just trying to learn too, a WD or WD45 may be my next AC.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 10:12pm |
Ranse, Don and others will answer better than me. But there are no dowels to align the cover with the engine block/crank and I think this little bit of extra effort may help keep this seal alive longer on the rotating crank? My guess without measuring is that the clearance in the holes in the cover allow the seal to be offset by as much as .030 inch off center from the crank. That's a guess. I will wait to see who provides a actual dimension? Maybe when/ if I ever get my WD45 engine back together I will try to measure the possible offset between the crank and timing cover in the area of the seal seat. I also think that the use of shims under main bearing caps on some WD series engines,was part of the reason to do the alignment of the cover/ seal to the adjustable center of the crank. Again just a guess on my part. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ranse
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 9:11pm |
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Don used the 1 1/2 pvc to drive the seal in, not to line up the cover. That's what I assumed anyway. He used the other thing he made to line it up. It's obvious I've haven't installed one either. I understand lining the cover up with the crank. I just don't know why it's necessary. Are the holes in the cover bigger than the bolts? It looks like once all the bolts were in, everything should be lined up perfect.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 8:18pm |
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Don, I watched the video, A 1-1/2” piece of pvc pipe fits the crank snug. But does the out side of the pipe have to fit the timing cover snug also?
Thanks, Aaron
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:40pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Don mentions that Allis sells or had a tool for this task too. Basically a close fitting I.D. /O.D tube to slip over the crank and into the cover prior to the seal being installed. I just don't know the dimensions of what the tube size needs to be.Regards, Chris |
Chris I don't remember the sizes  but it's the OD of the seal for the OD of the tool and the OD of the crankshaft at the seal area for the ID of the tool. it's made from PVC pipe.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:31pm |
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I start talking in the video about the front cover/seal around 28.00. hope it helps.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:29pm |
Don mentions that Allis sells or had a tool for this task too. Basically a close fitting I.D. /O.D tube to slip over the crank and into the cover prior to the seal being installed. I just don't know the dimensions of what the tube size needs to be. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 5:11pm |
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Ok thanks Chris. Don I didn’t remember seeing anything about that in your video I will watch it again thanks.
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:40pm |
Aaron, Yes the timing cover is installed loose then the crank seal hole in the cover needs to be centered around the crank shaft. Don uses a simple tube for this. I used a drill bit at three places. Then the cover is tightened down. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 7:14pm |
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I talk about the front seal and cover in the video, if you watch it a lot of the questions will be answered.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 5:47pm |
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I don’t understand what you guys mean by centering the timing cover on the cankshaft. Are you centering the cover it’s self or the seal? Can you please clarify. Thanks
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 1:52pm |
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Another thing I’ve noticed is the tractor never has gotten the temp guage into the green area. Even when baling hay when it’s 90 degrees out. It normally runs at about 160 degrees. Is that ok or would it be better to put a 180 degree thermostat in? What issues could be created by putting in a hotter thermostat?
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 1:50pm |
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TedJ mine is a work tractor and kind of a show tractor. We’ll see how it goes back together.
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Ted J
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Posted: 06 Jan 2019 at 5:27am |
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The more of these I read, the more I DON'T WANT to pull mine. Heck, it's a work tractor, not a show piece. MAYBE,,,,,,,some day.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 9:25am |
WF owner wrote:
I still say that pulling the engine is actually the easier way to fix the oil pan leaks. If you do pull it, you will be amazed how easy it is and how much easier it is to work on the engine. It's also easier to put just the engine into a clean heated place to work on it! |
X2. I'd remove the engine too if you are going to stop all the oil leaks. 
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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WF owner
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Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 9:19am |
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I still say that pulling the engine is actually the easier way to fix the oil pan leaks. If you do pull it, you will be amazed how easy it is and how much easier it is to work on the engine. It's also easier to put just the engine into a clean heated place to work on it!
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 7:48am |
Aaron, You are setting your self up for pulling this engine! I seen your thread on oil pressure too. The bushings for the cross shaft in the front cover can be changed but I think you may have to pull the cover. I did replace a set in one tractor. Good job getting the seal out. I didnt think you would find numbers. New seal will be a rubber lip type. Distributor can stay in place when you remove the front cover. Sounds like its leaking in all the right places too!:) Good time to do these projects! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 7:46am |
If you are going to work on the bushings in the front cover the cover will need to come off first.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 05 Jan 2019 at 1:43am |
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I also noticed that the governor linkage going into the governor has some play in the bushing and looks to be leaking a little oil. How hard is it to replace the seal and bushing there. Do you have to remove the distributor to replace the bushing? I’m not sure 100% but it looks like the timing cover may be seeping a little also.
Aaron
Edited by Allis Wd45 - 05 Jan 2019 at 2:43am
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WD45
IH Cub Cadet 149,1650,1250
#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:07pm |
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DrAllis, Thanks I got the seal out I used a paint can opener bent it straight put it inside the seal clamped a pair of vise grips onto it. Tapped them with a hammer it came right out. I dont see any numbers on the seal. But according to Steiner there seal part# ABC1996 is a rubber lip seal and will work before SN 269166 you just dont reuse the seal retainer. Which means it should work on my
tractor since it didnt have a retainer. There don’t seem to be any grooves wore into the Crankshaft. Is it better to replace the seal with a rubber lip type or a felt?
Aaron
Edited by Allis Wd45 - 05 Jan 2019 at 2:40am
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WD45
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#2 Cart, IH#2 Tiller
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DrAllis
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 9:01pm |
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289000 is an engine serial number. They never made that many WD-series tractors in total, somewhere around 235,000 or so. There were always more engines made than tractors for gen-sets, merry-go-round engines, etc.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:39pm |
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Ok, I got the crank pulley off and I can’t see any numbers on the seal. It is a rubber lip seal. I assume that’s what I want to put back since they probably seal better than felt seals. Also, can I get it out with a screwdriver or should I buy a seal puller. Or remove the timing cover.
Thanks for all your help
Aaron
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 12:15pm |
Aaron, Sounds good on the gasket set from NAPA. I know you can call several of the suppliers on here and get the crank shaft seal. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Allis Wd45
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:17am |
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I’ll wait till I get it apart and then get a number off the seal. The NAPA set has 2 side gaskets 3 end gaskets 2 f gaskets and the rear main seal.
Aaron
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:57am |
Yes I would assume tractor serial number too not engine.
(Just a note if you work on enough of these you may find that the tractor has been repaired and have a different rear with different serial number).
I don't remember if I even ordered the seal from AGCO? I may have just orderd a lip seal from my local bearing company, based on dimensions? Don(MO) Or Dr Allis may have the AGCO part number available. I am pretty sure some of the original seals from the factory were of a felt type and I am really not sure they are still available? Guess I am not able to help you much on this one without doing some digging!:)
Aaron, You lost me on the NAPA gaskets and combo? I think you should have 6 pc fo rthe oil pan gasket change. 2 for the ends (following the round shape) 2 flat ones for the sides and then the 2 "F" gaskets. Its been a wilie and I did not get mine from NAPA. I got mine from Sandy Lake.
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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