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improving steering on HD16dc

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jerbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: improving steering on HD16dc
    Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 10:27am
Hello everyone. A request for information relative to the steering on my HD16DC.

Had my tractor out this weekend after all repairs mechanically have been done. Notice my steering was pretty sluggish, and more so than prior to changing filters and fluids. Without pushing a load or going up a grade the steering levels have no impact. With the corresponding foot brake pedal depressed, I have to really stomp on the pedal and hold for the back to engage. Getting out of the barn was tricky as in first gear and low idle, was a little scary getting it out the door. Only 2 foot on each side of the blade to get it out the door.

Questions:

1. Is it possible to have air in the lines from filter and fluid change? If so what is best way to bleed that out?
    Would cracking the 1/4" plug while running help to bleed out air?
2. I have not adjusted the actual brake bands but will do so as I have the manual.
3. Could brake linkage be an issue such as being out of spec and needing to be adjusted?

With the tractor running at medium RPM's and in low gear, with steering level pulled back and corresponding pedal being pushed on, it does nothing at first and then the brake pedal kicks in. Not sure why that lapse of time is all about.

Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 11:45am
is your machine dry or wet clutch?  I cant remember what setup you have, but the steering systems are a little different.  the early system easily bleeds itself I never have any trouble.
I was thinking you had the dry clutches which could just be  a little grabby from sitting.  when I got mine it was similar but now will turn slightly just going straight no load.
 
 
if the steering lever goes down right away without trouble your delay I is not hyd pressure but slow clutch release.  those disk teeth can wear into the drum and have difficulty moving.  bump the brake a couple times can help it move it and release easier


Edited by CAL(KS) - 04 Jun 2018 at 11:49am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by CAL(KS) CAL(KS) wrote:


is your machine dry or wet clutch?  I cant remember what setup you have, but the steering systems are a little different.  the early system easily bleeds itself I never have any trouble.
I was thinking you had the dry clutches which could just be  a little grabby from sitting.  when I got mine it was similar but now will turn slightly just going straight no load.
 
 
if the steering lever goes down right away without trouble your delay I is not hyd pressure but slow clutch release.  those disk teeth can wear into the drum and have difficulty moving.  bump the brake a couple times can help it move it and release easier



Thank you Cal for jumping on this so quickly. My tractor is listed as a Dry Clutch. You hit on something that I noticed. When pushing on foot brake with steering level pulled, if I held the peddle down hard it didn't do anything but if I bumped the brake peddle a couple of time then it would grab well. Also, not sure if this was a factor but I did not have the engine at a fast rev. Higher than idle but not 100%. I would say 50% power. I am going to adjust the brake bands per manual, then all the linkage per the manual and then try bleeding the system to see if all of that helps. Also, as I only had the tractor out for the first time since last fall, I want to run it around to get everything moving and see if that helps loosen it up.

Any suggestion on how to bleed the system? I recall Morten indicated he did a steering system bleed and also pulled off the filter in the rear tranny and cleaned that up and helped him a ton. I do not have remote pressure gauge to check each filter canister to see what kind of pressure I have but will invest in that soon.

Thank you again. engine is running strong and track, which I spent a lot of time on are perfectly adjusted in my opinion. Pulled the Hood off, for sand and paint as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 1:24pm
IMO,  the way the system is designed it would be very hard to have air entrapment or have air effect the way it works.  1.   the reservoir is bolted above and directly to the pump at the front of the motor.  2.  the system is open center so any air in the system should quickly pass through and escape in the reservoir.  3. the filters are on the pressure side and should have no effect on air suction.   unless you have some object stuck in the pump suction side (unlikely) or the pump is extremely worn it could be cavatating? maby, im no expert.
The steering clutch housing has oil provided by each pump section to each side.  in side the  oil is pumped into a cylinder with a piston which is connected through linkage to each clutch release bearing assembly.   the piston has a hole in it so oil passes continuously until the lever is pulled and the plunger blocks the hole in the piston, forcing it back until the hole is exposed again.
 
there is a procedure to ensure the correct travel of the plunger rod for each piston,  I would read up on that in your service manual as its possible your piston is not moving far enough to fully disengage the clutch. 
 
that being said,  my tractor does not have any filters at all for the steering circuit,  but the later ones do.  as the system is open until activated, you could theoreticly crack the lines without fear of being sprayed with high pressure oil but I doubt it would accomplish anything.
 
IIRC Mortens DC was newer than yours it may be wet clutches.  if that is the case I don't have any experience with that style, I couldn't say.
 
 I could see a converter machine being difficult at low rpm because travelling straight it would move but when activating the clutch/brake it could cause the converter to stall? 
I don't know I guess.
I got my new to me side shields and pusher fan installed so im anxious to see how much cooler it is to operate in summer.


Edited by CAL(KS) - 04 Jun 2018 at 1:39pm
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 1:57pm
Great explanation Cal. Very much appreciated. I may be over reacting so will not jump off any ledges till I go through the steps of brake adjustment and all linkages. I am going to follow the book to test the steering pressure to be sure I am adjusted correctly and then take it from there.

I think you will enjoy the pusher fan. Mine really keeps that engine heat off off you. Great in the summer, but miss some of the winter benefits.

Than you again and I will report back on my further testing and adjusting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jun 2018 at 2:04pm
we do most of our pushing in winter so the suction fan helps blow that heat toward the operator.  Its nice except when pushing in dusty conditions,  you eat all the dirt.  We have a chance to dig a large pond for a close neighbor so hate to turn it down but dread working in summer heat.  I also installed a decelerator so anxious to use that too.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2018 at 6:17am
You will like the deceleration pedal. Came standard with my 16DC. Took a little getting used to as stepping on the pedal does opposite as a normal acceleration pedal. Great for shifting and working in close quarters.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R.KYLE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2018 at 8:22pm
MY TRACTOR IS 16 DP WET CLUTCHES.  TRACTOR STEERS BETTER IF YOU DEPRESS TROTHEL WILE APALLYING STEERING BRAKE. EXCUSE THE SPELLING MISTAKES.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2018 at 6:28am
Thank you very much R.Kyle.

I was wrong when telling Cal I had dry clutch. My transmission is a dry clutch and my steering clutches are wet or hydraulic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2018 at 7:46am
hmmm.   well not sure how much I said will apply then because they are a little different. LOL
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2018 at 3:40pm
Sorry Cal.

Was confused when thinking about clutch and didnt think about steering clutches.

Duh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2018 at 7:06am
Hello Cal. Had the old girl out today to stretch her legs. Running great, tracks tight to spec and shifting good.

I recall you telling me earlier that a test of the steering levers function would to pull both levers back at the same time and if working properly tractor should not move. If I recall correctly, then my tractor moves under power with no difference with both steering levers applied at the same time.

Your suggestion that it might be brakes is correct I feel and pumping them with the steering lever pulled does make the correct brake grab and turn.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2018 at 8:05am
Clutch discs are probably heat warped but with brakes application will still steer would live with that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2018 at 8:32am
I hear what you're saying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 9:39am
Well team and advisors,, I am going to be draining every drop of tranny/steering fluid. I already changed out the two steering canisters in the front of the engine but am also going to drop the rear belly pan, and take out the tranny sump filter and check and clean it up.

When I refill fluid, if I can find it,, your opinions on replacing with Type A ATF fluid or a current Hytran product.

I have heard a few folks on this forum use ATF fluid and if so is that Mercron,Dexron?

Thank you

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 10:02am
ok.  so with your system, it is entirely possible to be sucking air or have difficulty pulling oil with the trans sump setup, so a good idea to pull the sump and check.
 
if it was mine,  I would use a good hytran.  I feel that oil has a better load carrying capacity than ATF but I have no facts to back it up.
 
on mine I run 80-90 in the trans as its splash lube, not new enough for trans pressure pump and the steering I run engine oil so if the pump ever leaks into the engine it wont hurt a thing.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 10:32am
Type A was predominantly used for Winter, My 7G shows that for the power shift but 10W is the preferred. A Hytrans would be a better choice.

Type A ATF was Whale Oil replaced by Dextron but NOT advised for our old ACs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by CAL(KS) CAL(KS) wrote:


ok.  so with your system, it is entirely possible to be sucking air or have difficulty pulling oil with the trans sump setup, so a good idea to pull the sump and check.
 
if it was mine,  I would use a good hytran.  I feel that oil has a better load carrying capacity than ATF but I have no facts to back it up.
 
on mine I run 80-90 in the trans as its splash lube, not new enough for trans pressure pump and the steering I run engine oil so if the pump ever leaks into the engine it wont hurt a thing.


Thank you Cal. I see the manual also you can use engine oil in place of ATF fluid. I am running straight SAE 30 W oil. Shell Rotella. Good point on the event the tranny leaks into the engine compartment. Wouldn't have thought of that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 12:11pm
Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Type A was predominantly used for Winter, My 7G shows that for the power shift but 10W is the preferred. A Hytrans would be a better choice.

Type A ATF was Whale Oil replaced by Dextron but NOT advised for our old ACs


Thank you DMiller. Hy Tran 10w it is. Do you have a brand preference?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R.KYLE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2018 at 10:08pm
MY 16DP WOULD NOT STEER. I TOOK THE LINE COMING OUT OF STEERING PUMP OFF AND FOUND THERE WAS NO FLUID COMING THROUGH PUMP. I THEN CHECKED AND FOUND NO FLUID COMING TO PUMP. THEN I REMOVED BELLY PAN AND BOTEM OF TRANS ONLY TO FIND SUCTION LINE GOES THROUGH TRANS TO CHAMBER THAT HOLDS RING GEAR AND PINION. I TOOK THE PLATE THAT COVERS WHERE WINCH GOES ON OFF. THE CHAMBER WAS ALMOST DRY AND PUMP WAS SUCKING AIR SOME TIMES. THE WICK THAT OILS BUSHING IN THE TRUCK ARM IN THE BOTTOM OF CHAMBER WAS LEAKING AND OVER TIME OIL LEVEL BECAME TO LOW.  HOPE THIS MIGHT BE SOME HELP TO YOU.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 4:45am
Originally posted by jerbob jerbob wrote:

Originally posted by DMiller DMiller wrote:

Type A was predominantly used for Winter, My 7G shows that for the power shift but 10W is the preferred. A Hytrans would be a better choice.

Type A ATF was Whale Oil replaced by Dextron but NOT advised for our old ACs


Thank you DMiller. Hy Tran 10w it is. Do you have a brand preference?



No specific brands but I am using a MFA GP Hydraulic 10W with good results. Is purple in color.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 5:21am
Thank you. That product not available in Michigan. Looking at Traveler Brand HyTran sold st Tractor Supply or for a little more Shell Rotella Hydraulic Transmission Oil. Both are 10w. Tractor Supply brand is $33.00 per 5 gal and the Shell is $40.00 per 5gallon. My tractor shares a common sump for transmission, steering and brakes. I heard the Mystic Brand is good and listed as a JT5 whatever that means. Its $35.00 per 2 gallon. No way I'm going to put 27 gallons of liquid gold in my girl no matter how much I love her!!! ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 7:32am
jerry,  on the farm we use Cenex HTB.  Dad has it in bulk and its available at our local coops in 2.5 gallon jugs.  Should be available in Orchelens or TSC type stores i would think.  its not liquid gold but its not cheap stuff either.  It meets all brand specs for hytran except a few specific applications,  but i would use what is available in your area at a reasonable price.  we use this stuff in equipment from 1937-2007
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2018 at 8:06am
Thank you Cal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 9:00am
Update on steering. On a whim, I had a new 2.5 gallon jug of HyTran fluid in the shop. I had to 16dc out last night and noticed the dip stick showed only a small amount of fluid in stick when cold, however I was checking it when it has been warmed up and it showed full.

I dumped in the fluid and to my pleasant surprise, the foot brakes worked so much better. Did not have to pump they or hold down for 20 seconds before a track would grab. They were a huge improvement. Nothing yet with steering levers yet but was very pleased the foot activated brakes worked 100% better.

I am adding more oil today to bring level up on a cold engine and see if the improvement continues. I feel like an idiot of my poor old tractor was just low on fluid.

Thank you everyone for help and advise and I will will keep y'all posted. DUHHHHHH!!   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2018 at 9:45am
LOLClap
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 12:35pm
Well more of the story on why my 16 would not turn.

Low fluid level is my feeling at this point. Like a Dolt,,, and don't everyone agree all at once, I fell into the trap of looking for something mechanically wrong in the steering system when in fact, I was checking the fluid level when warm and it showed in the range correctly. Cold, no fluid showed on the dip stick. I put in 5 gallons of HyTran and now cold has it showing in the operating range. The foot brakes work like a champ and engage with a light touch. A firmer touch locks the track down easily.

To test the steering levers, I back bladed my access road to one of my fields and with no foot brakes action, the steering lever would steer the tractor well. Just while blade was in float and going in reverse. Im sure that under load it will be fine.

Still going to adjust all linkage to spec and brake bands per manual and will also check pressure at each steering filter connection for proper PSI. At idle book says 420 to 430psi and at high idle 450 to 550.

Thanking everyone whom jumped on this thread to offer help, opinion and advise. I listened to all of your and in the end, it was the simplest solution I was overlooking.

Happy Fathers Day to all you DADS on this great forum.
HD16DC, Bobcat 863 Turbo, Oliver 1855, John Deere 855,
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