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Ben (MI) 
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Joined: 02 Jun 2010
Location: SW Lower MI
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 Topic: black 430 corn head question
Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 6:20am |
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I need to replace a couple of the stripper plate adjusting bolts on my 430 black corn head because they are broken off. In looking at the parts diagram I can't figure out how difficult this job will be for myself with only moderate mechanical ability. If anyone has experience with this please share your thoughts. Thanks.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:04am |
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If you don't have a torch and maybe/probably a welder, don't even start.
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:25am |
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Thank you doc, I will get the mechanic to take a look. One row is open way too far causing excessive shelling. I wound up running 3 rows on a couple of acres. Is there a temporary fix to get through 25 more acres?
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:29am |
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Pound it back shut where you want it and tack weld something to hold it there.
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Lonn
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:30am |
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I'd just get it fixed myself. Or you can pick 25 acres with 3 rows. It would not take that long.
Edited by Lonn - 02 Nov 2017 at 7:31am
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:35am |
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Thank you guys.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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Tbone95
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Location: Michigan
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:51am |
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Sounds like you're lucky enough it's one of the outside rows!
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 8:14am |
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It is! I am going to try the pound and tack weld in place trick to finish up. If I fail I will just run 3 rows. Doc says the bolt replacement is a difficult fix.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:11pm |
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Just out of curiosity (we have the same head),were the broken bolts from wear and tear or "self inflicted" ? I was considering tweeking the plates next summer myself.
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 02 Nov 2017 at 7:18pm |
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One was broken and I broke the other. I beat the affected plates to where I want them and we'll try running. If they move back out of position too quickly I will get one of my helpers to tack weld it in place, thanks to doc's suggestion. I might try to replace the bolts off season but will likely just add it to the mechanics list.
Edited by Ben (MI) - 02 Nov 2017 at 7:19pm
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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GM Guy
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Location: NW KS / S.C. ID
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Posted: 03 Nov 2017 at 1:40am |
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make sure to clean the header off for storage, wet chaff is the #1 reason behind sheared off deck plate bolts.
Get some Kano Kroil and an air hammer with a long slender point before you break any more off. :)
I was able to free up an entire 6R30 header that I sold to a guy with just Kroil and the air hammer. Got the deck plates all adjusted up and I guess it worked great.
As far as getting broken bolts out, I am thinking you might have to strip the row unit bare and weld a nut to the sheared off bolt, then heat it up with a torch or use Kroil and a air hammer to break it loose. if you are lucky you might be able to get to it from underneath but I doubt it.
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 03 Nov 2017 at 6:07am |
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Thanks GM, I will probably leave it for the mechanic but may tear into it and see what damage I can do. Most of the other plates adjust freely but we'll check out the ones that are a little tight before breaking the bolts. I think I do a pretty good job of getting stuff cleaned up before storage but who knows how it was treated the 40 years before I bought it. I'm only a fair mechanic, that is why I have Dodge in my garage, haha!
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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