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WD 45 next? YES!!!

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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2018 at 9:49pm
I would bet, your ignition wire is connected at the starter swtich instead of the battery. When the starter draws enough current to turn it over, there is a drop in voltage to the coil, making a weak spark, When you let off the starter, the spark is stronger and it fires up. Several things can cause that. Poor connection somewhere, a weak starter, drawing more current than normal, or a less than ideal battery.
 If you could run the power to the ignition switch straight from the battery, instead of coming from the starter switch stud, it might make enough difference to fire up while cranking.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 07 Jan 2018 at 9:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2018 at 1:28am
I was thinking a couple thoughts, Sugarmaker might want to try

a. put a tank heater or some kind of heater on it so just plug in the heater an hour before.

b. Change his fuel to a faster burn grade. ... I have been plugging the 170 in when it is below zero, the other day I tried to start it at -10 below without plugging in and it did not want to start despite flooding the intake hose. It use to start down to -40 below without any aid, but that day, I poured a pitcher of hot water over the carb while holding a cloth around it so the water didn't just run off and when the pitcher was empty, I stepped the clutch in and turned the key and the tractor popped off almost like summer and then after a few seconds, had to pull the choke out again.  I have had to do that to several of the tractors over the years... Use to be I would put in premium fuel and didn't have troubles, but this year just before this cold start, I had dumped premium in when the cheap fuel was starting it... go figure.ConfusedWacko.

c. Maybe the coil has a resistor in it already and just doesn't have enough spark to start... WD45 here got changed over and used a GM 12v coil on it that needs external resistor... and needs direct voltage on cold starts.

My uncle back in the early 50's bought a used Plymouth that was a couple years old and first cold snap he had troubles starting it and continued on into the winter and he kept trying to figure out why it was giving him troubles and finally he figured it out. the car was a cheapened model and did not have the wire from the solenoid on the starter up to the coil and when he put that wire on, it would start in any weather.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2018 at 5:31am
Originally posted by JC(WI) JC(WI) wrote:


My uncle back in the early 50's bought a used Plymouth that was a couple years old and first cold snap he had troubles starting it and continued on into the winter and he kept trying to figure out why it was giving him troubles and finally he figured it out. the car was a cheapened model and did not have the wire from the solenoid on the starter up to the coil and when he put that wire on, it would start in any weather.
The problem with this configuration is the solenoid will load down the coil input voltage. It really should be isolated through a relay or with the proper ignition switch. A solenoid with another set of internal contacts, like GM used, works too.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2018 at 5:04pm
Steve, folks,
Today the schools had a 2 hour delay due to new snow and blowing and drifting conditions on a lot of east/west roads. Yes with temps going to be near 50 degrees F on Wednesday, we start to think about heavy, wet snow loads on roofs. We have about 4 feet of drifted snow on the garage attached to the house. I have reinforced it in the area under the snow load when I rebuilt the garage 20 years ago. If the back felt better, I would shovel some snow off. We keep our fingers crossed too! There will be buildings collapsing from excessive snow loads withing the next few days!

Have to get over to the WD45 and take that starter off. Today's fun was plowing the 4 inches of new snow and 6 inches of softening snow under it. Also worked on the TD6 to see why it wont start? Trying to track down a antique starter switch for that, or I may have to go into a rebuild mode on it.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2018 at 7:52pm
Folks,
 Went to check on the new pup (Luna), and the WD45. Well the 45 started right up on the first pull of the switch rod. Hydraulics came right up and it worked well to plow the slushy snow from the drive at Kel's place. The 30 degrees higher temp seemed to have a positive effect!
It really ran and worked pretty good for a 60 year old unit!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2018 at 9:05pm
Folks,
 I had a few minutes to load up some pictures of the WD45 as I worked on a few things this fall. This was in the garage during the time I was laid up so things did not happen very fast. For these I am using the Imgur program to hold the down sized pictures prior to uploading them on here. Once learned it seems as easy as photobucket. Haven't found the limits of it yet.

Added new shift knob, These little things just make it work easier:
(New 12 volt battery correct is installed, will fit original battery box if it ever gets one? )


Hood off and the air box is coming off. I did get that worn slot in the vertical pipe, Mig welded/ repaired when it went back on:
New temp gauge installed.


Just a shot of the crudgy old 45 engine. Need a nut for the valve cover too:


As you can see the fenders and sheet metal are there, but have been worked on many times and need a bunch more repairs too:


This one you better be setting down for! This is what the plugged mesh screen in the air box looked like when I took it off! Wow! No wonder the hose to the carb was off?:
Added new carb to air box hose and clamps after this was cleaned and re assembled. No need to weld that course screan back in the center fits tight and holds it up in place.


This is the course metal screen that is spot welded to the outer can in about 8 places. Drilled those out to release this, which then allows the mesh to be removed and cleaned. Bottom mesh was too bad to save so just went with the upper two after soaking in gas for a couple days: She can breath again. Installed new used air cleaner bottom cup from Sandy Lake too.
Look close you can see the crack in the manifold, just below the muffler. I have a pretty good used mainfold off the spare WD engine that may work on here? Any flow differences between WD and WD45 manifolds?


One of the many oil leaks was this left hydraulic packing. Couple turns of the nut tighten this up nicely, and slowed the leak down a lot:


I know these are butt ugly pictures of a crusty old WD45 but that's what we have at the moment.
I have found another oil leak from the flat belt pulley area? Have never seen that before?
Question: Where is the best place to drain the hydraulic oil? (so many plugs under there I have forgotten which one?):) There is a small one at the very bottom of the pump. I may try to drain that if the weather is warm tomorrow?
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Jan 2018 at 9:07pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 7:05am
Hi Chris,
I know, soo many plugs! The farthest one underneath up front it for the hydraulic compartment. That little one on the bottom of the pump only drains the control linkage section so it doesn't spill all over you when you take the pump off over and over, and over... until you finally get it to work right
 
that was one plugged air cleaner!!
 
Funny, after I repainted my 45 back in 2010, my hood started wearing on my air cleaner too! Hood just doesn't quite fit right. When I had it off last year I finally egged the hood hole out just a little so it doesn't rub.
 
It looks like you've got a nice dry and warm place to work there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2018 at 4:56pm
Dave,
 Thanks for the drain info. I did have that one out and it had lots of gunk plugging the hole.
 Maybe get to this hydraulic issue tomorrow. Warmer weather for a day or so.
On one of the tractors I shimmed the air cleaners vertical position to allow more clearance too. 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 7:44am
shimming... Why didn't I think of that!?? Great idea
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:25am
Dave,
 I have seen more that one of these Allis hoods not fit well. They were never very accurately positioned due to the tank being able to move and the radiator shell out of position. But the engine to frame is pretty much fixed. So the exhaust to hood fit is the toughest to fix.  Moving the air box is pretty easy with some washers behind the attachment points.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:30am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

I would bet, your ignition wire is connected at the starter swtich instead of the battery. When the starter draws enough current to turn it over, there is a drop in voltage to the coil, making a weak spark, When you let off the starter, the spark is stronger and it fires up. Several things can cause that. Poor connection somewhere, a weak starter, drawing more current than normal, or a less than ideal battery.
 If you could run the power to the ignition switch straight from the battery, instead of coming from the starter switch stud, it might make enough difference to fire up while cranking.

CTucker,
Thanks I plan to check this out and begin to change out some of the questionable things like the coil, which does have a external resistor that has very loose connection points!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 8:35am
Originally posted by JC(WI) JC(WI) wrote:

I was thinking a couple thoughts, Sugarmaker might want to try

a. put a tank heater or some kind of heater on it so just plug in the heater an hour before.

b. Change his fuel to a faster burn grade. ... I have been plugging the 170 in when it is below zero, the other day I tried to start it at -10 below without plugging in and it did not want to start despite flooding the intake hose. It use to start down to -40 below without any aid, but that day, I poured a pitcher of hot water over the carb while holding a cloth around it so the water didn't just run off and when the pitcher was empty, I stepped the clutch in and turned the key and the tractor popped off almost like summer and then after a few seconds, had to pull the choke out again.  I have had to do that to several of the tractors over the years... Use to be I would put in premium fuel and didn't have troubles, but this year just before this cold start, I had dumped premium in when the cheap fuel was starting it... go figure.ConfusedWacko.

c. Maybe the coil has a resistor in it already and just doesn't have enough spark to start... WD45 here got changed over and used a GM 12v coil on it that needs external resistor... and needs direct voltage on cold starts.

My uncle back in the early 50's bought a used Plymouth that was a couple years old and first cold snap he had troubles starting it and continued on into the winter and he kept trying to figure out why it was giving him troubles and finally he figured it out. the car was a cheapened model and did not have the wire from the solenoid on the starter up to the coil and when he put that wire on, it would start in any weather.


JC,
Thanks for the suggestions. I never think about fuel types. Something to consider.
Not sure how a heater would be configured in a 45? Would be like a oil heater in the pan somehow?
The coil is going to get changed soon. Would like to get the rest upgraded too! Will see how ambitious I am today.:)
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 11 Jan 2018 at 6:29pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim Hancock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 2:54pm
Hi Chris! Smile
Glad to hear that you're healing up is coming along good. 
Suggestion on an oil warmer: 
Katz magnetic heater that's about 3" x 4" with a handle stuck to the bottom of the oil pan should do you good. 
Or, 2 of them since it's really cold up there and going to get colder. 
Maybe even a heated dipstick.

Well, I got sidetracked in midstream of reading you last post and thought that you were looking for a way to heat up you engine oil. 
But, I suppose the same set up would work on the hydraulic oil reservoir. 


Edited by Jim Hancock - 11 Jan 2018 at 3:02pm
How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 6:19pm
Jim,Folks,
 No your fine with any suggestions! These deep freeze conditions test everything!
Update:
Thanks to Don(MO) for helping me with the tune up on the WD45 this afternoon! We talked for a hour or so while I tinkered with the tune up! 
Don had some very good suggestions on details such as a good set of Belden wires, (done).
Using a piece of the condensor box to set the point gap at .020 approx. Getting points that have the extra lead plus the spring (NAPA) (done)
I installed the new 12 volt coil. The rule of thumb on any coil is to wire it back wards from the distributor as if the coil is the same as your battery is grounded. In other words the wire from the distributor to the coil In this case went to the negative terminal on the 12 volt internal resistor coil. (Tractor has been changed to negitvive ground at the battery) Then the wire from the plus side of the coil would go back to the switch where it will get power.
Added the new dust shield, points, rotor and the new cap too. Only th old cap looked worth saving.
Plugs did not get changed today as NAPA accidentily gave me a Autolite #45 plugs. On the way home I picked up a new set of Autolite 295's, which is whats in the tractor now.

Also drained the hydraulic oil and the small bottom of the pump sump too. Added back about 5 quarts of 10W hydraulic oil.

Started the tractor just as the weather turned to crap! It fired right up and sounded good.

 Hydraulics came right up. Now consider that the temp was near 60 F not 0 F!
I did take off the snap coupler latches and shortened the links to the three point by bolting the links direct to the lift arms.
Thanks for checking in on me!
Time to hunker down for the next storm and cold spell. Which will be a good test to see if the 45 tune up helps!
Most of our snow is gone, typical January thaw in our area. Makes me think about making maple syrup too.

Regards,
 Chris



Edited by Sugarmaker - 11 Jan 2018 at 6:28pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2018 at 9:22pm
Ahemmm,,,,,,,don't want to get somebody (Don) irked at me, but did he MAKE you check the timing AFTER you did all that??  If not, after the cold spell drops back in you'll be scratching your head again...

When I bought my one WD45, it had a 3-point on it and it didn't have the lift arm latches.  It was bolted directly to the lift arms.  I kept those special doo-hickeys that were on (attached to the lift arms) it as I'd never seen them before.

Chris, it's ALMOST that season,,,,,,,,the maple run....it's just around the corner... (Thank God!!)

Stay warm and pray for an early spring....
"Allis-Express"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 9:01am
Originally posted by Ted J Ted J wrote:

Ahemmm,,,,,,,don't want to get somebody (Don) irked at me, but did he MAKE you check the timing AFTER you did all that??  If not, after the cold spell drops back in you'll be scratching your head again...

When I bought my one WD45, it had a 3-point on it and it didn't have the lift arm latches.  It was bolted directly to the lift arms.  I kept those special doo-hickeys that were on (attached to the lift arms) it as I'd never seen them before.

Chris, it's ALMOST that season,,,,,,,,the maple run....it's just around the corner... (Thank God!!)

Stay warm and pray for an early spring....
Don't worry Ted I talked about so much about the old WD's I don't remember if I said one word about checking the timing. lol
 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 9:07am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

Jim,Folks,
 No your fine with any suggestions! These deep freeze conditions test everything!
Update:
Thanks to Don(MO) for helping me with the tune up on the WD45 this afternoon! We talked for a hour or so while I tinkered with the tune up! 
Don had some very good suggestions on details such as a good set of Belden wires, (done).
Using a piece of the condensor box to set the point gap at .020 approx. Getting points that have the extra lead plus the spring (NAPA) (done)
I installed the new 12 volt coil. The rule of thumb on any coil is to wire it back wards from the distributor as if the coil is the same as your battery is grounded. In other words the wire from the distributor to the coil In this case went to the negative terminal on the 12 volt internal resistor coil. (Tractor has been changed to negitvive ground at the battery) Then the wire from the plus side of the coil would go back to the switch where it will get power.
Added the new dust shield, points, rotor and the new cap too. Only th old cap looked worth saving.
Plugs did not get changed today as NAPA accidentily gave me a Autolite #45 plugs. On the way home I picked up a new set of Autolite 295's, which is whats in the tractor now.

Also drained the hydraulic oil and the small bottom of the pump sump too. Added back about 5 quarts of 10W hydraulic oil.

Started the tractor just as the weather turned to crap! It fired right up and sounded good.

 Hydraulics came right up. Now consider that the temp was near 60 F not 0 F!
I did take off the snap coupler latches and shortened the links to the three point by bolting the links direct to the lift arms.
Thanks for checking in on me!
Time to hunker down for the next storm and cold spell. Which will be a good test to see if the 45 tune up helps!
Most of our snow is gone, typical January thaw in our area. Makes me think about making maple syrup too.

Regards,
 Chris

Chris I had a ball talking to you about your tractors. The door is always open to come by or a call it's all good. Let us know how the 45 starts and if the hyd works in the cold.
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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I didnt check the timing. It was running quite well after the tune up. I was scrambling to beat the rain and timing was the last thing on my mind. 
Cold and snow coming in this afternoon again. Maple syrup season may begin during the next thaw? Usually start hanging tubing and thinking of tapping by late January to mid February. 
We have a new great grandson coming April 3. His name is Cooper. Looking forward to having some fun with him in the future too.
Regards,
 Chris 
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 5:34pm
Folks,
 Installed the new Autolite #295 plugs in the WD45 this afternoon. Tractor started up on the first pull of the starter handle. Just a small ammount of choke to get it settled in to a nice idle. Weather temps droped 35 degrees F today We are back to sleet then snow and 24 degrees. Expected 3-6 inches of Shamless' best stuff!
Hydraulics came right up and worked good at that temp. 
Regards,
 Chris


D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Maybe you finally got it!
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Dave,
 I hope so! This old 45 has not had good care in its prior life! I am sure glad this is not my first one. Most of the stuff I know how to work on! I appreciate the help on the drains for the hydraulics too! Worked out real good so far. Started like a different tractor after the tuneup. Starter did not drag down and spun good. Also engine fired as normal not at end when you would let off cranking. 
Acted way more normal needing just a few on/off tugs of the choke, to let it warm for a few seconds. Then did not need choke. May have to time it a little as mentioned. Spark may need advance just a tad. Will just try to tune this by ear for now, just rotating the distributor a little.
As with a lot of these old tractors they have leaks, which will be evaluated as required when the weather gets warmer (summer)!
Back to winter here for a while! I will let you know how it starts and works as the temps head towards 20 deg F or lower.
Regards,
 Chris






Edited by Sugarmaker - 12 Jan 2018 at 7:52pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Folks,
 Thanks for following along and checking in on me too. Got some positive feed back on the WD45 updates last week. Ryan said it started good and the lift worked as it should yesterday when the temp hit 15 F as the high!
With the old chains secured and the back blade working, they make a pretty good snow moving machine to clear the driveway.
Hope things are good in Orange Land! Stay warm. Bring the pets in tonight!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dawntreader74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2018 at 5:24pm
what kind of plug gap; do you use?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2018 at 4:27pm
Originally posted by dawntreader74 dawntreader74 wrote:

what kind of plug gap; do you use?

Dawntrader74,
I must admit that the plugs came out of the box, I did a visual that they had gap, and installed them. For some reason I think .035 is about what they need (per spec) to be but have not referred to a book in a long time on that?? Out of the box they looked close. Maybe now that I think about it they may have been .043, I did not calibrate my eyeballs that morning!:) I believe the Autolite 295's are a little hotter plug. I think Don(MO) mentioned a 303 Autolite as the recommended plug for the WD45. I have put mostly 295's in the WD's.

FYI I had to go let the new pup out and of course I had to play with the 45 too! It fired right up with just a little choke dance. Hydraulic came up right away! Much Better! Was zero last night so a good systems test. I did not have the foot clutch disengaged.

Yea weather looks about the same as the previous posts, cold and blustery in our little neck of the woods!

Here is where I shortened the links for the 3 point, and boltyed direct to the lift arms.

Hey someone turned my blade around! Ryan was pushing some snow back out of the way and I hadn't noticed this till I posted the picture. This is a pretty stout blade, I bought it from a friend and it needed welding repairs. 

Where is a little of that Hubnut weather when you need it??:)
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2018 at 4:41pm
Folks,
Sorry if the last pictures were a little big! Still trying to get the picture thing figured out too.

Just thought of something else after looking at the pictures too. I am going to get two heavy muffler clamps and place on either side of the top link attachment clevis. Put them around the round pivot bar. That should hold that in place and bee safer too? 
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 15 Jan 2018 at 4:45pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 3:08pm
Folks,
Had a chance to add some clamps to hold the top link in position on the WD45.
1-3/4 inch exhaust clamps seem to look about right for this:


The 45 started good and lift came right up. We are gaining on a few of the issues.

Regards,
Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 19 Jan 2018 at 3:13pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2018 at 2:11pm
Folks minor set back today. Weather was a tad warmer and the 45 started up immediately. Very little choke dancing. It seemed to be reving a little high and laboring a little as it ran. I plowed the drive with it and the lift worked awesome! As I was completing, it smelled warm. When I shut it down there was steam in the rad area. Checked the temp gauge and it was just into the red zone. I think whoever mentioned about the timing may have been correct. Next time I will play with the timing a little and see if it will idle better and hopefully not get hot.

I know, another snowy picture! Winter just does not want to let go.

Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Feb 2018 at 2:12pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2018 at 6:08pm
Well folks, I still don't have this 45 totally figured out.
Called Don(MO) to review the tractor status. Well he was right on a couple things. I checked the coolant level. For some reason most of it was gone? Either boiled out or leaked out? Back to town to get some antifreeze. Gallon of straight up and about 3/4 gallon of water. Started the tractor and adjusted the timing by ear to sound much better. Let it warm up and no apparent large anitfreeze leaks ??? Temp didnt even get up to normal range??
Plowed the drive and temp was still low.
Will check the rad next time.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2018 at 7:41pm
Not sure you southern folks can stand another snow picture but here goes! This is why Erie PA just broke a record for snow fall today!


The 45 plowing more of the white stuff.
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 07 Feb 2018 at 7:42pm
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2018 at 7:30am
Keep working on it Chris! You're getting closer every time. It's probably hard to get it up to temp in this cold. Unless the thermostat's sticking. You'll see
 
We're forecasted for some snow tomorrow. I've seen predictions from 1"-12". So who knows??
 
I goofed. My 45's parked over at the house I'm working on to move into. I pulled a wagon over there in Dec so I couldn't take the blade. Now I don't want to drive it 20 minutes one way in the cold to where the blade is. Not sure if I can pickup the whole blade and put it into the truck either without taking it apart either... This house has about a 100 yard drive. Come next year I'll be having some snow blading pictures of my own!


Edited by Allis dave - 08 Feb 2018 at 7:31am
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