WD 45 next? YES!!!

Ted J wrote: Ahemmm,,,,,,,don't want to get somebody (Don) irked at me, but did he MAKE you check the timing AFTER you did all that??  If not, after the cold spell drops back in you'll be scratching your head again... When I bought my one WD45, it had a 3-point on it and it didn't have the lift arm latches.  It was bolted directly to the lift arms.  I kept those special doo-hickeys that were on (attached to the lift arms) it as I'd never seen them before. Chris, it's ALMOST that season,,,,,,,,the maple run....it's just around the corner... (Thank God!!) Stay warm and pray for an early spring....

Jim,Folks,

Edited by Sugarmaker - 11 Jan 2018 at 6:28pm

JC(WI) wrote: I was thinking a couple thoughts, Sugarmaker might want to try a. put a tank heater or some kind of heater on it so just plug in the heater an hour before. b. Change his fuel to a faster burn grade. ... I have been plugging the 170 in when it is below zero, the other day I tried to start it at -10 below without plugging in and it did not want to start despite flooding the intake hose. It use to start down to -40 below without any aid, but that day, I poured a pitcher of hot water over the carb while holding a cloth around it so the water didn't just run off and when the pitcher was empty, I stepped the clutch in and turned the key and the tractor popped off almost like summer and then after a few seconds, had to pull the choke out again.  I have had to do that to several of the tractors over the years... Use to be I would put in premium fuel and didn't have troubles, but this year just before this cold start, I had dumped premium in when the cheap fuel was starting it... go figure.. c. Maybe the coil has a resistor in it already and just doesn't have enough spark to start... WD45 here got changed over and used a GM 12v coil on it that needs external resistor... and needs direct voltage on cold starts. My uncle back in the early 50's bought a used Plymouth that was a couple years old and first cold snap he had troubles starting it and continued on into the winter and he kept trying to figure out why it was giving him troubles and finally he figured it out. the car was a cheapened model and did not have the wire from the solenoid on the starter up to the coil and when he put that wire on, it would start in any weather.

Dave,

Dave,

Folks,
 I had a few minutes to load up some pictures of the WD45 as I worked on a few things this fall. This was in the garage during the time I was laid up so things did not happen very fast. For these I am using the Imgur program to hold the down sized pictures prior to uploading them on here. Once learned it seems as easy as photobucket. Haven't found the limits of it yet.

Added new shift knob, These little things just make it work easier:
(New 12 volt battery correct is installed, will fit original battery box if it ever gets one? )


Hood off and the air box is coming off. I did get that worn slot in the vertical pipe, Mig welded/ repaired when it went back on:
New temp gauge installed.


Just a shot of the crudgy old 45 engine. Need a nut for the valve cover too:


As you can see the fenders and sheet metal are there, but have been worked on many times and need a bunch more repairs too:


This one you better be setting down for! This is what the plugged mesh screen in the air box looked like when I took it off! Wow! No wonder the hose to the carb was off?:
Added new carb to air box hose and clamps after this was cleaned and re assembled. No need to weld that course screan back in the center fits tight and holds it up in place.


This is the course metal screen that is spot welded to the outer can in about 8 places. Drilled those out to release this, which then allows the mesh to be removed and cleaned. Bottom mesh was too bad to save so just went with the upper two after soaking in gas for a couple days: She can breath again. Installed new used air cleaner bottom cup from Sandy Lake too.
Look close you can see the crack in the manifold, just below the muffler. I have a pretty good used mainfold off the spare WD engine that may work on here? Any flow differences between WD and WD45 manifolds?


One of the many oil leaks was this left hydraulic packing. Couple turns of the nut tighten this up nicely, and slowed the leak down a lot:


I know these are butt ugly pictures of a crusty old WD45 but that's what we have at the moment.
I have found another oil leak from the flat belt pulley area? Have never seen that before?
Question: Where is the best place to drain the hydraulic oil? (so many plugs under there I have forgotten which one?):) There is a small one at the very bottom of the pump. I may try to drain that if the weather is warm tomorrow?
Regards,
 Chris


Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Jan 2018 at 9:07pm

Steve, folks,
Today the schools had a 2 hour delay due to new snow and blowing and drifting conditions on a lot of east/west roads. Yes with temps going to be near 50 degrees F on Wednesday, we start to think about heavy, wet snow loads on roofs. We have about 4 feet of drifted snow on the garage attached to the house. I have reinforced it in the area under the snow load when I rebuilt the garage 20 years ago. If the back felt better, I would shovel some snow off. We keep our fingers crossed too! There will be buildings collapsing from excessive snow loads withing the next few days!

Have to get over to the WD45 and take that starter off. Today's fun was plowing the 4 inches of new snow and 6 inches of softening snow under it. Also worked on the TD6 to see why it wont start? Trying to track down a antique starter switch for that, or I may have to go into a rebuild mode on it.
Regards,
 Chris

I was thinking a couple thoughts, Sugarmaker might want to try

a. put a tank heater or some kind of heater on it so just plug in the heater an hour before.

b. Change his fuel to a faster burn grade. ... I have been plugging the 170 in when it is below zero, the other day I tried to start it at -10 below without plugging in and it did not want to start despite flooding the intake hose. It use to start down to -40 below without any aid, but that day, I poured a pitcher of hot water over the carb while holding a cloth around it so the water didn't just run off and when the pitcher was empty, I stepped the clutch in and turned the key and the tractor popped off almost like summer and then after a few seconds, had to pull the choke out again.  I have had to do that to several of the tractors over the years... Use to be I would put in premium fuel and didn't have troubles, but this year just before this cold start, I had dumped premium in when the cheap fuel was starting it... go figure..

c. Maybe the coil has a resistor in it already and just doesn't have enough spark to start... WD45 here got changed over and used a GM 12v coil on it that needs external resistor... and needs direct voltage on cold starts.

My uncle back in the early 50's bought a used Plymouth that was a couple years old and first cold snap he had troubles starting it and continued on into the winter and he kept trying to figure out why it was giving him troubles and finally he figured it out. the car was a cheapened model and did not have the wire from the solenoid on the starter up to the coil and when he put that wire on, it would start in any weather.

Chris,
I agree.  Sounds like the starter is not turning fast enough--especially because you say it fires as you release the switch.  Can't imagine dealing with all that snow and cold.  I heard that the NE is supposed to get near 50 next week?!  Weird.
Steve

Wow, 120 inches!, I've only had to plow once this year so far. We've had maybe 12", but it all came a couple inches at a time. Glad you're healing up so you can keep everything cleared.

Folks,

Man, y'all still getting pounded. I really like the garbage can pics. They look like giant mushrooms, very cool.

Ted/ Folks,

Edited by Sugarmaker - 04 Jan 2018 at 5:35pm

Folks some pictures:

Ted,

Edited by Sugarmaker - 01 Jan 2018 at 3:26pm