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Time to "Get more, make more, with the 66" |
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combinechris
Silver Level Joined: 20 Jul 2015 Location: wittenberg,Wi. Points: 422 |
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I use ATF on my chains and after I clean up the combine I spray ATF oil on everything, inside and outside .
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35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90
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CrestonM
Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8357 |
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I just got to thinking...if your clutch was slipping while you were turning the driveline from the backside, then yes the clutch will slip even if nothing is stuck. Just the nature of the clutch. That might make you think something is binding.
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Bill Long
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556 |
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That is one ton of work. You have done an outstanding job to get a 66 going. One of the three units that Made Allis Chalmers Farm Equipment. My congratulations on a GREAT JOB!!! Let us know how it goes. You know, I cannot get over the time and effort you all put into restoring Allis Chalmers Equipment. Cannot thank you enough for all you all do to keep a name I love alive. Again, Great Job!! Good Luck! Bill Long
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1826 |
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Well Bill, it's partially your fault. You always say the WC, the B, and the All Crop are what made Allis Chalmers. And you inspired some 39 year old kid half a country away to collect them....
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1826 |
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Got the material from the Amish tarp shop. Not sure what its called, but it sure seems strong, and it is VERY flexible. They "hemmed?" the edges over. The material was 60", so I told them to hem each side 1/4", which would leave a final width of 59 1/2".
BUT, the old, old man got it in his brain that the finished size needed to be 60". So they somehow added a little bit and then hemmed it back to 60". I even printed them a picture and wrote the sizes right on the paper, but whatever I guess. I need this combine looking complete next week, so its go time. Even at 60" wide, it still fits. Laid out the wooden slats. After laying them out, I looked in the parts book. Looks like in the parts manual there should be 4 slats on the upper canvas and 8 slats on the lower. Need to install the canvases and mark them so I can cut some slots in them for adjustment, then I can rivet, staple, and/or bolt everything on. Junior and I took a half hour and used rubbing compound on all the large panels. Compare the three panels on the left to the rest of the machine. |
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18727 |
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LOOKIN GOOD Mon.......... Who did most of the rubbing?
I'll see you next Thursday! I'll call..... |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1826 |
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Got some split rivets from Mcmaster Carr. Painted the slats, should be a nice contrast on the black drapers. Got the slots cut, and started installing the slats.
60 rivets and 700 staples, but who's counting? Got the upper one installed, I never noticed that the board above the upper draper was so old and droopy, the canvas won't even go under it. Luckily, the woodworking neighbor had half of that white oak board left, so he sawed me up a fresh one in no time. Ran out of daylight today, will have to install the lower one tomorrow.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168 |
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little marv,
Awesome work by you and your family bringing this hedgerow find back to life. I had one of these in my possession but sold it about 4 years ago. My dad was a Allis guy and love to harvest with these All-Crops! Great documentation too! Thanks for posting all the good pictures. They will inspire someone else to start on a project. Which reminds me I need to get out there and do something on orange or red machines today too. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1826 |
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Lookin sharp and ready to display at Farm Technology days! I didn't even try the PTO yet, I just put it together and took it out to the show. That was kind of a goal of mine, to be able to display it this week.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8168 |
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Congrats on getting it to the show!
Looks great! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2856 |
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I almost went to Farm Technology Days. I was near Madison for work once and followed the signs for what seemed like forever! I got there finally, but I was a week early and they were just setting up tents. Dissapointed, sounded like a funner evening than hanging around Madison.
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1826 |
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Finally getting back to work on it.
Lets take a look at the loose bearing on the back. Loosened the belt, removed the chain, tapped out the pin up by the u-joint after I ground the head off, and pulled the entire assembly out the back. You can see where the bearing housing is rattling around inside the thin metal plate. So, lets see what lies beneath the clean grain auger clutch. Stuck my phone back there, and the picture reveals that the bearing is completely out of the housing here. Removed the nut and washer from the end of the shaft, and put the three jaw puller on to pull the clutch assembly. But, something is amiss. It won't come all the way off, it starts binding and pulling sideways. Better investigate further. Noted where the nuts were so I get the spring tension back where it was. Took off the nuts, caps, springs, and inner piece, and sure enough, there is a key in there. Good thing I didn't force it any more. I could touch up the key and turn it around, or I could spend the $0.17 and get a new one. So there, another little victory. AND, I discovered what the inspection port is for! Its so you can hold the flat headed screws when taking that plate off. There. All cleaned up, ready for reconditioning and reassembly. I wonder if a fellow shouldn't just reproduce those two plates out of the next thicker gauge metal? I wonder how they were assembled when new. Just a press fit onto the bearing housing? Seems like a weak design. Theres not much torque on them, more like directional force from the belt and chain. Popped off one of the reel bats, going to ask the neighbor if he can make me a set of spokes, I have one broken and the other one is about to break, but hopefully he can just make 12 while he is at it. How about the sickle. I don't think you sharpen serrated ones? Should I just wire wheel the rust off of them? I'd rather not put all new sections on it, but if the crop doesn't get cut, the rest of the combine is irrelevant, don't you think? I think I may be softening the old man up. I've told him several times I want to combine the one acre soybean field in front of the house. His reaction is shaking his head and mumbling about how "That field ain't a playground and you can't be messing with another mans crop, that's his livelihood" and yada yada yada. Well, he used to run an All Crop when he was young, and as I get further along on this project, I think he'd like to see it in action. Plus, the poor Mennonite who rents the land, whose entire family drives nicer cars and trucks than we do, and has a brand new free stall barn and parlor, AIN'T DOIN TOO BAD. I don't see why I can't take a crack at the beans right before the combine comes. Hell, I don't know, the machine may harvest the entire field flawlessly, or, it may go 8 feet and explode. There's only one way to find out! At any rate, I was up to Pa's the other day, and we were standing on the edge of the bean field BS'ing like normal, when all the sudden the old man says "You got a bean screen for that combine?" That's all I needed to hear, I think he is on board now. I told him I would be getting a bean screen for it. I've asked on here and (gulp) on Facebook, but I can't seem to locate one. So, I started doing a little googling, and sure enough, MCMaster-Carr has perforated metal, 3/8" offset holes. Should do the trick. Couple cuts and bends and we should be in tall cotton, I mean, soybeans. Thanks for looking. |
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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Travis2766
Silver Level Joined: 26 Aug 2015 Location: Amherst, Wi Points: 389 |
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What’s the wood board that is over the top of the upper canvas just in front of the cylinder for? Is it bolted to the flange in front of the cylinder? My 66 doesn’t have this.
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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CrestonM
Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8357 |
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It's just called a cross board in the parts book, and it adds rigidity to the floating draper frame. A small canvas closure strip is nailed to the back side of it. All 60/66 machines had this, so yours must have been taken off. littlemarv...as to your question about the sickle, your sections should work fine. Mine are more worn than that one one of my 60As, and it never leaves a stalk uncut. I wouldn't even wire brush them. The crop will clean it up and have it shining in time.
Edited by CrestonM - 12 Aug 2018 at 3:34pm |
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Reindeer
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Calgary, AB Points: 650 |
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I agree with Creston on taking the machine out and cutting with it. Before you do, run the sickle and get oil on the surfaces, to make sure everything moves as it should. Also check that the hold down clamps (center of the pic of the knife) keep the knife sections down close to the ledger plates in the guards. Keeps the knife cutting clean and prevents binding which can lead to more resistance. The pitman arm will thank you.
Looks great. Good work. Edited by Reindeer - 12 Aug 2018 at 5:02pm |
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Ryan Renko
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edwardsville, I Points: 2315 |
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I have been following your progress from the beginning and have enjoyed every minute of it being shown to use Allcrop fans. We all can relate. Keep up the great work. Ryan
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13611 |
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that board also helps keep a little bit of flying grain that might fly back out, and allows the bats on the canvas to put it back in the machine.
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