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Corn farming question |
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 6:53pm |
I just had my first year of planting corn. Went fine but a dry year. I use a JD 7000 with dry fert and put out 500lb of 17-17-17. Which is the best way to plant corn?
17-17-17 19-19-19 10-20-20 with 30gl 32% at planting 10-20-20 with 30gl 32% over top later and does it make a big difference if you use the planter to fertilize or just broadcast it when you plant? The fertilizer system on this planter is wore slap out so wondering about rebuilding it or just leaving it off. See a lot of planters without any fertilizer on them. |
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Start with some soil samples and find out what fertilizers and the quantity you need first.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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I do soil sample, pretty decent land and just a maintenance app. of fert. Just my grandfather always put between 400-500lb under his corn.
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Lynn TN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2009 Location: Maryville, TN Points: 130 |
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We used the planter until this year. Broadcast 100-80-80 right at planting. Which come to about 450 lbs per acre. Then come back over top with urea when corn was knee high and put another 60 units of N. Couldn't tell any difference in corn. Though we are in a bad drought and only made 115 bushel corn. Couldn't tell a difference from years past with emergence and color, till it stopped raining and went 80 days above 90 degrees.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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100-80-80? I thought the sum of the numbers couldn't be greater than 100.
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JarrodACFan ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 Jan 2012 Location: Delaware Co. IN Points: 732 |
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Before you rebuilt the dry fertilizer system, I would just get rid of it and get a liquid system. I would think you could pick up some knives, tanks, and a pump for not a whole lot if you do it right and are able and willing to build some of the mounts and stuff. We use 28-0-0 for all of our nitrogen, split about 25% planting, 75% sidedress. We like it pretty well.
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Lynn TN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2009 Location: Maryville, TN Points: 130 |
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100-80-80 is total units not per 100 pounds.
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Dmpaul89 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Mar 2013 Location: Edwardsville,IL Points: 1689 |
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I used 370lb per acre Urea along with Dap and potash. All preplant. Total of 190lbs of Nitrogen plus whatever last years soybeans left. Did fine, well above farm average. Plants did show a N defficientcy late season though. So next time I will top dress some AMS or more urea in june
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shameless (ne) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Location: nebraska Points: 7463 |
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dad always used 6-18-6, banded in row. (starter) then came back with NH3 when corn was about knee high. I would just broadcast 150 lbs of accual fertilizer before planting. if the soil is all up to snuff, around here they figger 1 pound of N, equals 1 bushel of corn.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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I already use liquid on my beans (3-18-18) at 3gl. thought about a liquid system on planter and use 3-18-18 liquid and 30gl of 32% at knee high.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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Seems to me, all of the methods you have mentioned are all a little low on N. As Shameless said, 1lb N per Bu yield potential, or even a little more.
That fact that you got 500 pounds per acre out of that planter is pretty amazing! Can't be that wore out, haha. But good grief, you were filling FREQUENTLY to keep it flowing right, about an acre per every two rows on your planter, right? You are right, there are a lot of ways to plant corn and fertilize it. Some of the nutrients are more mobile than others, N is pretty mobile, so some of your N can be broadcast to lessen the volume that must go through the planter. Guys with no fertilizer on their planter at all either have an applicator or hire it done by someone with an applicator. What I do, and I have a very similar setup, is I try to limit my fertilizer through the planter to approximately 300 lb or less. And I make up the rest of the N, and anything else like usually potash, with a spreader preplant. Analysis used is based on soil test. |
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tomNE ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: dorchester, ne Points: 1225 |
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Any fertilizer besides nitrogen, actually should be put on the fall before, here in Nebraska.
I been raising corn on dryland for many years, just don't forget a sharp pencil, when figuring out if it's even worth your time, at this price. Here, it's a money loser! |
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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2971 |
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Why are you guys broadcasting urea after the corn is up? Doesn't urea need to be either worked in, or heavily rained on almost immediately after application to avoid it breaking down and being wasted?
I would never broadcast urea when you can't work it in. Urea is the most expensive and least efficient application of N. Even when worked in, it washes away more quickly than anhydrous. That's why guys sidedress and apply preemerge N. The preemerge gets the corn started with the N right where the corn can get to it. A few weeks later you sidedress, so when the starter is gone, the sidedressed N takes over and doesn't have time to wash away. This is a generalization because I had a couple acres I didn't use any starter on, and used only Urea and AMS and it looks beautiful. I applied the Urea about 2 days before planting and ran a disk over it within an hour. That corn's beautiful, but it's generally not the most effective and least expensive way. Shoot for the old rule of 1N per applied bushel like shameless said, but keep in mind you could need less depending on soil type. Muck has a lot of organic material that decomposes and creates N, so you get some free N. Legumes like soybeans should leave some N behind too, but I'm not sure how it really pencils out. |
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old farmer ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Oct 2011 Location: Sturgis, Mich Points: 341 |
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The cheapest way to save fertilizer money is to grid sample. We started doing it and our fertilizer bill is less. Our total cost with grid samples less than when we applied what we thought was needed.
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shameless (ne) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2016 Location: nebraska Points: 7463 |
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we found...using 98% uran, when corn was about knee high or sum less, dribble it between the rows. it'll soak into the dirt some, then the water in it will disapate until it rains, the rain will carry it down to the plant. then the plants get both water and fertilizer at the same time, putting it in the grow mode! and if it's dry, the plants are not stressing as much after receiving the fertilizer, searching harder for water to support it's faster growth!
another plus to this is it takes less fuel to pull the rig thru the fields.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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As others have eluded to, test the soil. If you don't know the optimum amount of fertilizer, consult someone who does. As for the 1 pound per bushel increase, there is a diminishing return here. Of course you can increase your yield if you apply lots of fertilizer, but you also need to increase plant density. Water becomes a factor when you do this. Don't just throw fertilizer on for the sake of more is better.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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Allis Dave, I don't know if you were talking about me or not, but I don't broadcast urea post emerge. I do work it in preplant. If I put a little extra on, it's still cheaper than buying or renting an applicator and getting it put on at just the right timing.
NH3 takes time to convert to usable N also, just choices to be made. Agrotain in the urea is supposed to help it have some staying power, but I personally haven't tried it yet. |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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And yes, 1 lb. of N per bushel of yield potential is only part of the equation. Yes, you need the other nutrients, water, population, weed control, etc. to round out the crop.
I do pretty well for my area, nobody touches 200 much in this neck of the woods, it's more like 140 country, and I do from there to 170. Or 90 when the weather sucks. It' farming, it's a gamble. |
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2971 |
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I think LynnTN said they broadcast more urea when knee high
You're right, you have to know your ground. We have several small plots we do use urea on either because of rock, tree roots, or mucks. Sometimes the extra cost is justified. Sometimes you tear out more corn in odd shaped fields with the toolbar than you do good |
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D17JIM2 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Brazil, In Points: 246 |
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Agrotain does work to allow Urea to be broadcast w/o incorporation. But only for 7 to 21 days depending on amount put on the urea ( more expense for more days). It still needs some rain to save it after that time period.
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Dmpaul89 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 06 Mar 2013 Location: Edwardsville,IL Points: 1689 |
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topdressing urea is becoming more popular. you just need to do it with rain in the forecast. have heard of guys doing 200lb an acre or more. it will burn the corn a little where it comes in contact but its just cosmetic. here urea was the cheapest form of N this past spring at $330 a ton.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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A lot of people around here put down 30 gallons of 32% uan at burndown. I don't like the idea of spraying a liquid out on bare ground, the way it sounds to me is it will either run off with rain or evaporate without rain, don't make sense to me. With 3.73 units of nitrogen in a gallon of 32% that will give you 111.9 units which sounds like plenty to me. I did 17-17-17 at 500lb/acre this year which gave me around 85lb/nitrogen which showed that it wasn't enough. But with dry weather I averaged 130bu/acre. And YES I was filling that thing just about every pass in the field. THAT SUCKED
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Lynn TN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 29 Nov 2009 Location: Maryville, TN Points: 130 |
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We use Nutrisphere treatment on our urea, urea is the cheapest nitrogen we have here. We have it treated and do our best to spread when they are calling for rain. It does pay and you can see the difference from years past with no treatment.
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rw ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 28 Oct 2009 Location: United States Points: 384 |
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In a cold wet spring and in no till starter on the planter especially N can really help even on soils with good to great fertility. That is an opinion of mine. A really good soil/crop consultant familiar with your soils and not employed by the fertilizer dealer is the best investment.
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