My D15 Series 1 Build

I watched your hitch video. I don't think that would bother me. I am guessing the Draft control is probably not setup perfect but to know for sure you would have to add some weight on the hitch. Ti my eye the supports that hold the lift arms are bouncing probably have some serious play in them from age but the two upper arms doing the actual lift move smoothly.

I would say get about 300 pounds on it and see how it acts with that load. I bet it smooths out alot with a actual work load the gravity down systems I have seen don't really behave well without a load.

Thanks guys. That really helps me a lot. Like I said it was that way when we got it years ago but I figured since I was tearing stuff apart now would be the time to repair it if needed.

cottonpatch wrote: bigredisb wrote: Thanks guys. That really helps me a lot. Like I said it was that way when we got it years ago but I figured since I was tearing stuff apart now would be the time to repair it if needed. I can appreciate what you're doing. I have gone through my D15 front to rear and top to bottom. I am going to split it this fall for a leak at the PTO lever seal and rework the power director as these are the last two items to address. I don't even want to post how much money I have in it.

I will just say yours might not be the most expensive one out there. Mine has had the shuttle clutch rebuilt the motor rebuilt the loader towers rebuild for a price that I could have bought an entire tractor. It has a 100 percent new custom hydraulic system and now I need to rebuilt the hydraulic cylinders because they leak by too much to use. I don't know what else I have done but these old tractors need alot of love if they are to run right again.

Tractors from the 90s are hard to keep running newer then that are about hopeless.   Once you get the electronic circuit boards in them they don't want you to fix them so the boards are expensive or just not out there. When I bought my ih 5240 someone told me I was lucky that was the last generation of case ih you could actually fix. He had one in the next generation beyond that and had to send it back because it was about 4 years old and was already have a very hard time keeping the circuit boards working.
New ones are disposable.   It pains me to say that because I worked as a controls engineer for years building electronics in industrial equipment but that stuff has a 20 year lifespan and the market is just based on the concept that in 10 years it is obsolete and no one would want to fix it anyway they will replace it.

I don't think $250 is bad. I'd say average. I can't tell from the picture if it has a gauge wheel or now. When you see it you can see if the slats, shin, and landslides are very wore. as long as their not completely thin and gone, you won't wear it out on 10 acres a year.

Well I picked up that plow this weekend. One bottom has a couple of welds on the slats and two of the ends cracked off which I can fix but I negatiated the price down a bit more on it. He had it setup as a 2 bottom which I am going to try it that way first but the 3rd bottom had the big landslide on it so I put the 3rd in the second place and the second in the first place so I can repair the first bottom.
I had one bolt that was bent and rusted in that took me over 2 hours to get out but it's swapped and I also got all the adjustment hardware all freed up.



I already started stripping it to get it panted. If anytime knows the model number of this plow I would be thankful for a leed on it.

Also got all my lights and wiring done. Ended up putting a JW Speaker led work light on the back and got my new headlights on and working.

If tractor has set without use for some time, arms will act like the video. Personally, I see nothing wrong with the way they operate and agree you should cycle them with the plow weight on repeatedly. Do they stay up with the plows on? I picked up a D15IISC years ago and just had to work the arms enough with a 5' A-C cutter and it acted better as time passed with nominal use. I would not mess with the settings at all, until you have put some use on the lift arms by working it as you will likely find it is set right where it needs to be. The lift on that unit is hell for stout and quite bullet proof.

Yeah I think the lift is fine. It has tons of power and 0 drift at all. With the engine speed up its fairly smooth lifting the plow assembly.

You know... Some guys just buy a garden tiller, or change their own oil, or mow their lawn...

That looks great, glad you got the plow. That looks like a model 63 plow. Meaning a 60 series 3 bottom. but I goes now it's a 62 plow. LOL

The 63 refers to the plow frame series and number of bottoms. The actual plow bottom has it's own model, but that's harder to figure out. There's a plow article in the knowledge base section if you want to read up some day.

You can also change a couple bolts around and switch those between a 14" or 16" width. Pretty cool, I don't know have any other plow manufactures that you could do that to their plows.

I have one just like it only without the slat bottoms.

**edit
Just did a little plow reading. I lied a 60 series plow did not have an adjustable frame for 14" and 16". Only the 70 and 80 frames were adjustable

Edited by Allis dave - 09 Sep 2016 at 9:22am

There is a 70 series plow that has a sheer bolt. I don't think that's a sheer bolt if it's 3/4" That's too big. It'd be more like 7/16 or 1/2.

You're on the right track to setup the plow. I usually try to plow about 8" It's a litter better to drove up on a block then to jack up the tractor. You're loosing your tire squish. You're going to be close though. You'll always have to do some adjusting once you get going.

More important, you need to do like Doc says and get your wheel tread set correctly. That will change between a 2 and 3 bottom. When standing behind the plow, you need to set your right tires line up with the right edge of the plow share. If your tires are too wide, you won't be cutting all the dirt and you'll be more tearing it and trying to plow like 18" wide instead of 14". If your tread is too narrow you'll be cutting like 12", not a full cut.
It will be trickier to set the 2 bottom. You might have to slide the whole plow right on the lift bar to bet it correct. Ideally, you want half of your plow cutting on each side of you hitch for correct draft. That's not always possible on a 2 bottom because it's so narrow.

Sorry for being so windy. Grandpa likes to teach me about plowing.

Edited by Allis dave - 09 Sep 2016 at 9:23am

The shear bolt indeed was 3/4" Grade #2 (soft). The top bolt was Grade #5 and the bottom pivoted on it.

Did a little reading on plows and realized I lied up above. only 70 and 80 plows had the 14" to 16" adjustable frames. 60 plows were fixed. My plow is a 70 and it looks like your's is too. oops

Thanks Doc, I could never figure out how the 70 shear bolt was. It'd take one heck of a rock to shear a 3/4 grade 2 bolt. I have the setup on my 45 that throws out the hand clutch if it hit's a rock.

I don't like leaving incorrect information out there because of me. Don't want people searching later to read and start repeating it as gospel.

Sounds like a good fix. Mine were all froze up when I got the plow. Had to use some heat and oil to get them freed up. Bet you can't wait to try it out!
I had to tell my wife about your neighbors commenting about some people just change their oil or mow the lawn. She says the same thing about me! Funny stuff



Edited by Allis dave - 09 Sep 2016 at 2:58pm

Well it's been at least 20 years since I used a spray gun and painted. I made a ghetto booth and a good friend of mine just gave me a refrigerated air dryer so I had some decent air to use.
It's just Valspar AC orange which I know isn't a perfect match but this is going to sit outside most likely.



Also found some good photos of D15 in her prime. Damn she looked good!