G 230 6 cyl swapped into a D 17 diesel

Look at Gleaner A combine specs.

Looks like the rears are also off a combine

Engine specs probably easier to find under an A-2 Gleaner and still would be the same as a D-19 tractor except for the bore and stroke. All tune-up specs would be the same as a D-19 gasser.

Looks like the rear part of that loader is missing!?  BE DARN CAREFUL with it!  The only blots holding it on look like the 1 on the front and the 2 in the mid section.... I'd show some better pics and ask the gurus on here about it before I would trust it.  Just a word of warning....
It looks great though!!

Thanks.... No the loader is missing the parts that go under the rear axle but its working well at least... I have a friend in the welding business Im gonna ask to see if he can make me something... Its a Koyker loader but I cant find any info on it as far as what model it is, I could probably buy the parts from them if I knew what model it was, they are here in SD... I have no real need for it right now but I will soon and we'll get it right.... I mostly bought it and  a post hole digger to use to build a deck and some fencing but I can see were gonna find a lot of work for it around here

Tried messing with the points, they were at .35 and I set them at .22, it had a little miss to it that went away and a little more power but I think it's still not right... The plugs, wires and cap and rotor look newer and it does run very smooth, no smoke out the pipe but it seems weak under load... There is hole underneath that I can see the flywheel/clutch through, I can set the timing through there right??? What kinda marks do I look for??? Id like to put a pertronix conversion in it, anyone know a part number to look for???

This is my first tractor, never even drove one before so I really dont know what to compare it too

 

That loader needs to be moved back and bolted to the rear axle. Put any kind of load in that bucket and best case scenario you shear the bolts on the frame rail. Worst case you bend the frame rails and have a real mess.   I would find a good allis loader they look better and were made for the tractor.

Congrats on your first tractor. It looks nice under the loader. Lots of info on this forum. Thats one of the most popular models.    

Thanks I looked at it and the holes are there on the frame to move it back, I'll still need to make some parts to bolt it to the axle but that will make it easier to do for sure...  I didn't put it on there but that makes a lot of sense to me!!!

Honestly as long as the loader works and this one does I don't care who made it but I do want it done right... Like I said I don't know much about this stuff and it's my first tractor so I can't say Im loyal to any brand in particular LOL

There are some other things that Im gonna fix that seem half assed on it...

Gonna try some fresh gas in it and then pull of those side panels and look around in there... I have no clue what the difference between a tractor and a combine governor is or even what it would look like, only see the rod from the hand throtle and the choke cable hooked to the carb

Theres a hole on the bellhousing to see the marks on the flywheel then you loosen the distributor and turn it to adjust. but I wouldnt mess with that odd are it is set fine.    Does the tractor hold RMP?  I mean when you set it half throttle does it speed up or slow down on its own while driving? it should stay a constant rpm, it should "correct" itself. if its running wild high rpm when no load, then slowing to idle under load, then your governor isn't working. that would make it seem to have "low power".

Can set it at a nice slow idle and it doesn't seem like its too high at WOT to me, just bogs down under a load... 

You should be able to set that throttle at say 1500 rpm and drive up and down the hills (within reason) and it should hold around the 1500 rpm... If it does not, then chances are, the governor is still a combine gov.

Tom Miller, 30 years ago I had contemplated putting a 6 into an old D17 and thought that with enough thought and some alterations, that combine governor could be made into a full govenor... but time and age as taken the solution I had thought that would work away from me.  I should go and check out my 230 engine and refreash the dead brain cells and see if I can remember how I would have done it.  The 262 engine that I talked of earlier had the whole governor assembly exchanged with a tractor governor, housing, internals and linkage as I recall.

Internally, the governor is pretty much the same. The big difference is the external governor spring tension and how it is applied. Combines are set for full speed (adjusted with an eyebolt) only and are around 2200-2300 RPM. Tractors have linkage that varies the spring pressure to allow for engine speed control (and governor action/response) from the operators seat. Combines also have a different carb throttle shaft and linkage, but that really doesn't affect the tractor part if it is adjusted correctly.

If you adjust the forward to back position of the loader make sure you leave enough room so it doesn't hit the pump when the cylinders are fully retracted. Ask me how I know that one... There is typically a cover for the pump built out of half inch steal to protect it the covet also joins the two front prices of the loader frame to stiffen then up a little.

Hey Mack you're right! My old brain cells got confused with my new ones(very few) and after I had kicked the putor to the wall, had a cup of coffee and one (1!) egg I got things lined up. The old Massey that I rebuilt the engine for was a Chrysler industrial. A good engine for the time. Now to 230. I also worked on one, but it was in a Gleaner , and I don't remember the number. All that crap out of the way, if it makes any difference now I agree that your problem has to be with the governor, perhaps in a minor way. I would think they would be a neat little engine and very durable. You'll like it when you get the bugs out. I recommend that you call Orkin. Leon R  Cmo