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Points gap??

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skeeters65 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skeeters65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Points gap??
    Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:01pm
Hey guys my manual says the gap for the points is supposed to be .020. Does that number differ seeing how I have converted to 12 volts.
Finished the conversion and replaced plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, points, and condenser. Tractor starts right up and idles pretty good but starts to break up when the RPM's go up.
Just trying to track down the issue.
Do all those parts need time to break in and burn off any coatings?

Thanks
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:30pm
Conversion to 12 volts does not affect point gap - no change needed.  There are no coatings that need to be burnt off either.  Is there a lot of play in your distributor shaft?
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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skeeters65 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skeeters65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 8:38pm
There is some play in the shaft.
If you mean I can turn it back and forth a little with the cap, rotor and dust cover off?

How much is normal?

Thanks
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:18pm
Back and forth would be gear lash.   I think he's asking side to side shaft play if the bushings inside the distributor are worn.  Slop there would allow variable point gap as it ran.   Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 2016 at 9:39pm
Back and forth should be centrifugal advance if its a distributor. It should be spring loaded to the most retarded position.

Timing needs to adjusted after setting the point gap every time because the point gap affects the timing. And the effect of the centrifugal advance should be checked too because to produce useful power the timing needs to be advanced more the faster then engine is running.

Gerald J.
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skeeters65 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skeeters65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 6:00am
Any links on how to set the timing on my B?

Thanks
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:15am
If you have slop like shown in this video, you won't be able to maintain point gap or set proper timing.
[TUBE]HHAvZMN0i14[/TUBE]
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:36am
Changing to breakerless electronic ignition may help a little since changing the gap between the rotor and the pickup won't affect the timing as much. It would still be best to find a better distributor.
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LeonR2013 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:58am
You might check your gap again and also check the lobes the points ride on. I've seen them get worn and give erratic fire patterns. Is your dist. a Delco Remy? If it is  you can get points for an older Chebby six cylinder and they'll work. Same thing. I guess "older" is relative here. Let's just say middle sixties. Any more, brand new electrical parts  are defective. Points, condensers, plugs,and wiring are always suspect.  Leon R   Cmo
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skeeters65 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skeeters65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 2:42pm
Thanks guys.

Just wanted to add that this tractor ran like a top before I put the new ignition parts in it.
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LeonR2013 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeonR2013 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2016 at 8:56pm
Ah Hah   Leon R   Cmo
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2016 at 11:38am
Put the original condenser back and see how it runs.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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skeeters65 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skeeters65 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 8:45am
Hey guys thanks for all the advice. Figured I would give an update to this issue.

I put the old Points and Condensor back in and it runs like a dream again. That is really aggravating that these brand new parts are no good!!

Thanks again!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2016 at 10:30am
That is pretty SAD ! It might be just the condenser, as many have had trouble with new ones. It used to be you could file points too, but the new ones have what looks like a sprayed on layer of something instead of a silver soldered silver contact. 
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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