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5020 clutch housing |
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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the clutch went out on my 5020 a couple of years ago, and it became one of those projects I never got to. finally brought it in the other night to start the project. tractor has been sitting outside. On the left side of the clutch housing is a large inspection hole. Discovered that the housing was filled with water. Checked the parts book, it doesn't show a plug or anything for this hole. I had never worried much about it, figured any water that got in would run out the bottom, but there doesn't seem to be any opening in the bottom of the housing. so, couple of questions......do any other 5020 owners have a plug in this hole?......and what would be wrong with adding a drain hole to the bottom of the housing when i have it apart?? you can see the hole in the pic below.
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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Dale East Tn ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2015 Location: White Pine Tenn Points: 17 |
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I have a 1980 5020 it doesn't have the hole in the bell housing my brother has a 5020 I checked with him and his doesn't have a hole in his bell housing.
Edited by Dale East Tn - 30 Mar 2016 at 6:44pm |
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EricPA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Watsontown,PA. Points: 2578 |
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Just checked, mine don't gots it either
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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hmmmm.....so is your housing solid at that spot, or is there a knockout or soft plug there?? i'll have to put a plug of some sorts in mine. in the pic below, you can see the hole from the inside of the housing, and there's some other pics. its a bit ugly in there. the clutch disc actually looks OK, thickness wise. i think my problem wasn't the clutch itself, but either the pressure plate was rusted stuck or everything was rusted to the shaft and wouldn't move. . . ![]() . ![]() . ![]() . ![]() . ![]() .
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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JoeM(GA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4768 |
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A quick look at the Parts book shows that they didn't add the famous vibrating cotter key
to the early tractors, I's sure be adding one before putting it back together!!! from the parts book -
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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joe, i just took a look at the parts book......its the first i've heard of this.....tell me a bit more....
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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JoeM(GA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4768 |
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Alan, almost every tractor manufacturer always drilled a hole in the bottom of the clutch housing and then put a cotter pin in the hole with a loose fit after bending so that the vibrations and movement of it would keep the hole open so any oil that leaked out of the engine or the transmission would drip out instead of filling the housing and soaking the clutch disc. In your case, I would add the hole to the case and then find me a rubber expanding plug to fill the hole you have on the side to prevent water from entering the housing again.
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
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LeonR2013 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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Sure looks like it's been standing about half full of water doesn't it? Leon R Cmo
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sandylakeimplement ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Sandy Lake, PA Points: 399 |
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You are right Alan.....It's pretty ugly....LOL
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Sandy Lake Implement
Sandy Lake, PA 724-376-2489 www.sandylakeimp.com FIND US ON FACEBOOK |
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CAL(KS) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3800 |
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i would be checking the transmission and changing the input seal with that much water in there
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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farmtoybuilder ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Dresden,Ohio Points: 1457 |
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Add hole to bottom and plug the side hole! In japan they run in rice paddies in water up to foot boards and such. Most compacts had a drain plug in bottom. Agree with changing seals and brgs also!
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5 different TT-10's,5 TT-18's Terra Tigers,B-10,2 B-207's,B-110,2 B-112's,HB-112,B-210,B-212,HB212,2 Scamp's & Homilite T-10. Still hunting NICE HB-112 & anything Terra Tiger & Trailers for them.
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HudCo ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3820 |
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think i would also do the rear main seal also
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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Joe thanks....i was pretty much planning on adding a hole and a plug, but i wouldn't have thought of the cotter pin to help keep it open and deter the mud daubers.
Yes, you can certainly see the high water mark. I had to drain the hydraulics to split it, which is also the transmission fluid, and surprisingly the hydraulic oil looks OK; engine oil looks ok on the dipstick too.
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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EricPA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Watsontown,PA. Points: 2578 |
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Here's the same shot on mine.
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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EricPA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Watsontown,PA. Points: 2578 |
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Mine is SN.1587, one of the first off the boat. The clutch actuator arm that sticks out the side is different than mine, looks a little "improvised" compared to mine.
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Life is tough,but it's tougher when you're stupid. - John Wayne
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tadams(OH) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10687 |
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go to Lowe's in the plumbing section, expandable drain plug will fill the hole
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Dale East Tn ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2015 Location: White Pine Tenn Points: 17 |
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Ours are solid in that spot on the housing.
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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eric, thanks for the pic. except for the hole, i think ours are the same. BTW, i'm serial number 1369.....must have pushed in line for the boat a bit ahead of yours.....
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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zutanz ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 28 May 2016 Location: Eugene, Oregon Points: 15 |
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Good day to you! I realize this is an old thread and I'm a very late comer, however, I've just purchased a 5020, from a neighbor - that's had it sitting for a few years, and it appears to have a slipping clutch. It's functioning as a rear-wheel-drive tractor now, due to lack of available parts, and this is acceptable, for now; it cost me $400.
I had the idea, yesterday, to ask someone that's replaced a clutch in my model, before undertaking the task myself. The AC repair manual describes a very straightforward process which seems a little too simple. I'd like to get a clearer picture of the task involved before undertaking it, which I will schedule for this Winter. So, please let me know if you're interested in chatting about this. Thank you! Michael, Eugene, Or. |
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alan-nj ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: oxford, nj Points: 847 |
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Michael
changing the clutch itself wasn't too bad. it was more of a project disconnecting everything to split the tractor. i do also remember some annoying bolts at the top of the bell housing. hydraulic lines were a pia too...take your time, you'll be fine
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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zutanz ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 28 May 2016 Location: Eugene, Oregon Points: 15 |
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Thanks for the encouragement. I've done a lot of automotive and other mechanics, it's just that this is a new type of beast for me. I may contact you, in the future - when the job gets underway, if I run into any snags that don't make sense - which probably won't happen. Thanks again for the encouragement.
Sincerely: Michael Neukirchen, Eugene, Or. |
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