Update on 7020

Went down and took a look at it. Tach is broken and farmer figures it to be around 4200hrs. Looks really good. Has a factory coolant filter. Runs nice. Shifts nice. 4-5 shifts feels a little soft, but 6-5 shift is good, so I'm not really sure what to think about that. IOS 4-5 normally a really smooth shift? My biggest concern is the clutch. When you press the clutch down, you get a grinding noise/hydraulic whine noise when the pedal is almost out of travel. If you press down all the way, the clutch works, but there is still a hydraulic whine there. When you press on the clutch all the way while driving around in the lot, it stops rather abruptly. Almost like it's a brake. it shift from H to L really nicely as well. One hydraulic lever feels pretty stiff, the other feels really nice. 3pth arms drop without standing on them. Quite different from a 200. Was actually pleasantly surprised at how quiet it was. Comparable to a Deere SGB. Does anyone have any ideas on price? Seems really high at $13,000. I don't feel like you could ever get that back out of it. Thoughts? Tires are maybe 30%, needs a cab kit, radio, tach. It's nice for the age, but by no means is it perfect. Was a PFC hydraulic system standard on these tractors?

Any weights or duals? $13,000 is way too high I think. Maybe $9000.

Too much. Thats tractor house pricing. Offer 7500

is your $13,000 CAD$ or USD$?   quite a difference.   $13k CAD should be around $9700 USD, so an offer around 8500 should be fair if thats the case.  At worst, take the asking price and back off new tires and cab kit.

Pressure & flow compensating

Correct !!! Allis-Chalmers pioneered "pressure and flow compensated" hydraulics in the 7030-7050. It took John Deere until their 7000 series about 20 years later to offer it on their tractor line.

So just wondering if pressing the clutch down all the way is supposed to bring the tractor to a quick stop. It vary much acts as a brake. That is my biggest concern with this tractor at this point. Thank you for all the replies and expertise.

joe wrote: So just wondering if pressing the clutch down all the way is supposed to bring the tractor to a quick stop. It vary much acts as a brake. That is my biggest concern with this tractor at this point. Thank you for all the replies and expertise.

You should not use that transmission brake to stop the tractor. It's only to stop a rotating transmission so it can be shifted without clashing. If I remember right the transmission brake is the application of oil pressure to two clutch packs which locks the transmission up. Kinda like getting into two gears at once. It's not meant to stop the tractor. It is however a very robust system.

No disrespect intended, but it's been known as PFC for the last 40 years. It is pressure AND flow compensated. It doesn't say how it achieves it, and for the sake of argument, it doesn't really matter. It makes only the pressure necessary, and only flows what is necessary.

It was an important milestone in Farm Tractor hydraulic engineering, and Allis-Chalmers pioneered it in 1973. I believe Case was next, then maybe IH and on down the line with Deere 20 yrs later. I believe Caterpillar was the first to use it before A-C did.

Just don't push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. Push far enough to stop the tractor as a normal clutch would do. The last inch or so of pedal travel activates the transmission brake for shifting. The operator's manual will explain how the tractor should be operated. Eliminating it or lessening it would probably make it very hard to shift.

joe wrote: .........Is there a way to adjust it, (the clutch) so the clutch would stop the tractor by letting it coast to a stop(like most clutches), but maintain the aggressiveness of the transmission brake when the clutch is pressed fully.

Was the tractor good and warm when you test drove it? It sounds like the tractor wants to creep it will be worse when cold but should be less noticeable when warmed up.

You say the clutch brake was the only way to stop the tractor did you try the regular brakes? They should have no problem stopping you.

As doc said. If you work the clutch pedal with the engine off you will notice a heavier spring in the last little bit of pedal travel. This is the brake zone. It's a two stage clutch pedal of sorts. And it should coast to a stop like a normal clutch without getting into the trans brake with warm oil.