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175 brake fun.... |
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Decided to check out why there was no RH brake on the last 175D that I bought. Of course it is on the "difficult" side. I decided to try this setup to get the hydraulic controls out of the way.
![]() ![]() The cylinder pin slid right out with a little nudge from my hammer and chisel. Bracket came off in no time. ![]() This is the bolt that holds the cylinder bracket on and is behind the cylinder pin. I drive the chisel between the head of this bolt and the cylinder pin from the hole in the front of the bracket. ![]() The cylinder bracket has to be removed to access this pin that holds the bottom of the brake bands. I use a half inch bolt, washers and a big nut to pull the pin. This one came out pretty easy without heat. The top pin was another story, I heated it up orange 3 times, finally torched off the brake bands so I could get a large vice grips on it. Then I got the whole pin red hot and used the vicegrips to twist it. As it cooled it finally broke loose....but now I had a bend in it, so had to torch a section out of the middle, took the inside piece out with the vicegrips and drove the outer piece into the housing with a hammer and punch. ![]() No wonder I had no brakes...bands were just steel and the drum was ground down 1/4" undersize. Fortunately I have spare parts from other tractors and a stash of new linings. ![]() Top view after everything was removed. ![]() Found a spot to hang the cylinder.... ![]() Hopefully tomorrow I will get it all back together. Ironically this came in the mail today, the company I bought my little rivet tool from 3 or 4 years ago to replace the linings. ![]() |
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Tracy Martin TN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10797 |
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Eldon, great step by step on the brake job. Helps us that are going to tackle the job in the future! Thanks Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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DanD ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: WI Points: 856 |
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Be sure to measure and then set correctly the distance between the friction plate in the axle housing and the differential bearing carrier to ensure good brake performance and long life.
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Got it....this is the 5th tractor that I have done. |
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Rocket 88 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2015 Location: PA Points: 57 |
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Eldon if you ever run out of lining there is a little company here in PA. that can put brake lining on anything had one done for a driveshaft parking brake that was obsolete they even did my little brake band on my Allis for 10 bucks.
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SHAMELESS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EAST NE Points: 29486 |
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ye-gads...all that just to replace brakes? whew! looks like my 190 will not have brakes for awhile!
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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D19 and 190 are actually easier as the brakes are external...no need to pull the finals. Of course if you have a cab it might be in the way.... |
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BennyLumpkin ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2010 Location: Centre Hall, PA Points: 2657 |
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This looks like no fun...my 170 is due for brakes. ..next year lol
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1751 |
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I also am not looking forward to the brakes on my 170!
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Finished up in about 3 hours today. I wound up only putting on one new face on the drum, I had a stash of good used parts with good linings on them. I decided not to change out the shaft seal since I didn't see any leakage. I slipped an O-ring on the shaft just outside of the seal to act as a slinger just in case. I also figured out a little trick to getting those little springs on that go from the bands to the holes in the casting. I put the band assembly in, installed the lower pin, hooked the rear spring to the band, then thru the hole and then slid the top pin in far enough to catch the first ear of the band. Did the same to the front band, and then slid the top pin all the way in. Had to add a .010 shim to adjust the gap...again, nice to have a stash of parts available.
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