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7000 hitch mod

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Ron(AB) View Drop Down
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Joined: 27 Dec 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 7000 hitch mod
    Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 12:08am
Anyone done this?



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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 12:27am
nope....I gotta be able to move mine each way!
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 8:12am
I agree with Shameless. MACK
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Michael V (NM) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 10:54am
for pto work a drawbar needs to be locked in place...
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Stan R View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 12:01pm
Our D17 IV 3pt hitch has clevis pins for quick removal, in lieu of the bolts in the picture above. Drawbar may move 1/2" back and forth, but nothing to worry about.
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Ky.Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ky.Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 12:36pm
Looks like a good idea you came up with. I did something similar on my 200 after the square headed bolts became worn. I know some guys like the drawbar to move sideways just a little but never knew why. I like the drawbar to be 100% solid and rigid with no side movement at all. You don't want the hitch on your truck to be loose and flopping around so why on a tractor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dmpaul89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 2:00pm
On my 7000 i have to slide the drawbar all the way over to clear the deck on my 3pt brush hog. Also nice If your pulling something offset like a baler or pull combine.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:42pm
Makes it much easier to hook up if you can swing draw bar to side then into implement.
 That is why the PTO has ujoints.    MACK
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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 9:50pm
yep...what Mack says, so much easier to hook up implements that you can't wiggle by hand!
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 10:08pm
One of my 175's has bolts with bigger heads that just drop in the holes. Drawbar has very little movement, but bolts can be easily pulled out to move drawbar in either direction.
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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2015 at 11:51pm
I've gots rail road spikes in one of my tractors drawbar, the big head don't let it move much, and like Eldon's, can pull them out easy to move it.
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Ron(AB) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2015 at 1:16am
This setup is for making hay with a round baler.

Up north we sometimes have swaths so big they roll up under the tractor and start pushing the swath in front of the tractor. This leads to more hay/chaff getting sucked into the rad and blocking the air flow.

Double windrows can be double trouble if you're not careful.

The 7000 is one of the few tractors with a lot of clearance under the trans, and with this smooth hitch system it makes baling that much easier…

Besides, didn't those original allis hitch bolts wear out fast, say 5000 hrs?   My 7000 has over 8000 hrs.
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Ky.Allis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ky.Allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2015 at 6:48am
Yes-- the original square headed bolts did wear and cause sideways slop in the drawbar but the joke is the price of them if you want new ones from AGCO.
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Alex (wi) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex (wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2015 at 4:55am
I can see your point, this set up certainly keeps those pins/bolts on the sides of the drawbar from catching the windrow!
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Herb(GA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Herb(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2015 at 9:53am
Our 1938 CC Case 3 plow tractor had a similar rolling drawbar arrangement; plus a half inch forward/backward movement such that the drawbar would lock into a row of 1/2" holes an inch apart as soon as one backed up. The front of the bolt holding the roller was a 3/8" tapered rod that fit into this row of holes in a heavy strap iron on edge. This strapiron and the drawbar holder were one (a heavy duty angle iron); this necessitated the roller being on a stub bolt supported only from the backside of the drawbar.
We seldom used the rolling drawbar so we had little or no need for this automatic locking feature when backing up, but thought it was a neat, inexpensive design for incorporating this feature.  
Thought it worth mentioning in case someone sometime had need for such unusual feature.
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nanuk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nanuk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 6:23am
Originally posted by Herb(GA) Herb(GA) wrote:

Our 1938 CC Case 3 plow tractor had a similar rolling drawbar arrangement; plus a half inch forward/backward movement such that the drawbar would lock into a row of 1/2" holes an inch apart as soon as one backed up.
 
my 930CK has the same style... moves forward to lock solid when backing up.  I assumed that was designed in so one could run with a total swinging drawbar.
 
and i have yet to figure out what application would require a swinging drawbar....   one way disc perhaps?


Edited by nanuk - 11 Oct 2015 at 6:24am
AC7060Pd 1975
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truckerfarmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truckerfarmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 8:44am
I know it's a different tractor, but, on page 27 of the WD45 operators manual it says, "The bolts may be removed from the sides of the drawbar and the drawbar allowed to swing. This will allow easier steering on sharp turns with heavy loads."
Looking at the past to see the future.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 10:14pm
When we pulled the old drag disc, you could not raise or straighten  them at end of field, so a swinging drawbar made them easier to turn at end of field. Some later drag discs had a hydraulic cylinder to straighten  them when you turned. Alot of tractors at that time had NO hydraulics system.    MACK
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SHAMELESS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SHAMELESS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2015 at 11:24pm
also when using the old pull type go-dig cultivators, the drawbar needed to be able to swing, and also pulling a drag harrow
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nanuk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nanuk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2015 at 8:37am
Thanks for the info guys! I learned two things today!
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2015 at 8:42am
Don't think we used it on the drag disc but drag harrow needed a swinging drawbar on the WD.
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