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Replacing Tie Rods |
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George53 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Oct 2014 Location: Mead, Colorado Points: 32 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 9:19am |
I am replacing my tie rods. I was able to remove the nuts on the tie rod ends pretty easily but the tapered ends connecting the tie rods have been another story. I have used rust dissolver, mapgas, trying to twist them loose and pounding the heck out of each of them and so far I have only ben able to remove one of the tapered ends. Any suggestions on how to remove the tie rod ends (tapered boys)? Thanks in advance for the help.
Regards, George
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sparky ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1732 |
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Get 2 big hammers and hold one on the side of then steering arm where the tie rod end goes through and the smack the other side with the other hammer. Don't be a wuss when you hit it either.
![]() Edited by sparky - 17 Jul 2015 at 9:32am |
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It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3966 |
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You didn't say what tractor. I replaced the complete tierod assembly's on my wd45. The ends were $27.50 each and the complete assembly was $51.00. If you reuse one end you'll be replacing it soon anyway. Got mine from OK tractor. Couldn't be happier no rusted cobbled parts in my steering. Comes with new clamp and both ends have new rubber caps. Just wack the old tierod off with a pickle fork and put a new assembly on. It's real easy to adjust a new one.
Edited by Dakota Dave - 17 Jul 2015 at 10:10am |
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George53 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Oct 2014 Location: Mead, Colorado Points: 32 |
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I forgot to mention the type of tractor - I have a D-17. Thanks for the advice!
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thendrix ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Feb 2013 Location: Fairmount GA Points: 5021 |
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Might also try a pickle fork
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"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7452 |
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Heat also helps too!
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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As said above, pickle fork. Any reputable tool store should have one, probably come in a set with about 4 different sizes. Will make the job very simple. Darrel
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lowell66dart ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Paulina La. Points: 964 |
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I used to fool with old Mopars in the junkyards and we had no air tools, electricity, etc. When I was remoming front end componets I did like the man above said, two hammers.
Press one big hammer against the female side and on the opisite side hit the heck out of it. What you are trying to do is make that round hole slightly oval and the tie rod stud will fall out. If done correctly it will work every time. Good luck.
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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18923 |
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Use a pickle fork. The easiest way and you will use it in the future PLENTY of times...
The shipping is CHEAP http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=pickle+forks |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5983 |
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Pickle fork + air hammer + large ID hose + V4 air compressor.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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I learned about the two hammers on the side of the arm years ago in a book on VW maintenance. Beating on the threaded end makes the taper tighter because it expands it. The pickle fork also works because the wedge gives some mechanical advantage and it pulls on the taper which tends to make the taper a bit slimmer.
Gerald J. |
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