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akmountainman 
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Joined: 23 Aug 2014
Location: fairbanks, ak
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 Topic: dd wheel removal
Posted: 25 Aug 2014 at 10:40pm |
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hello all,
I am beginning to separate the wheel from the brake part on a dd grader.
It looks like I should thread 2 bolts through from the outside and they will push the wheel from the brake backing plate, after the castle nut is removed?
Does anyone know the length needed and thread size of these bolts, elsewise I'll be getting a whole cart full of bolts tomorrow!
thanks for your help
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DonBC
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Courtenay, BC,
Points: 941
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Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 11:51am |
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You will be dealing with a tapered shaft with a tapered hole in the wheel hub. These are usually tough to get apart as anyone who has taken off a tie-rod can attest. I would say that you will have to use the two bolts with a heavy bar across the end of the axle. Tightening the bolts might pull the hub off but you may have to wallop the bar across the end of the axle with a very heavy hammer to get it to release.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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akmountainman
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Location: fairbanks, ak
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Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 12:26pm |
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any idea of the thread size, bolt dimension? I was going to use a caliper and bring my measurements to the bolt store.....
how heavy of a bar? 2" square tubing, heavy wall? or something stouter?
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DonBC
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Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 2:32pm |
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I would say that the threads will be standard American coarse threads, probably 5/8" dia. I will take a couple of bolts from my collection and check my grader. You will probably want it to thread in about 1/2" - 3/4" to start. I wouldn't use hollow square tubing as you want to have maximum shock value when you hit it. I would use a solid bar about 2" wide and 3/4" - 1" thick. I will get back to you on the bolt diameter.
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akmountainman
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Posted: 26 Aug 2014 at 4:36pm |
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thanks, that is very helpful.....now i'll go look through the scrap pile...
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akmountainman
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Posted: 29 Aug 2014 at 4:02pm |
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well its a little disheartening, DonBC said 1" was too big, and I just got back from the hardware store with a 7/8" bolt that is too small
does anyone know if there is some kind of plow edge, industrial style bolt that is 15/16th" or a similar metric size? the hardware place only had 7/8, 1, 1&1/8, etc, I didn't ask about metric 'cause we were pretty sure it was American coarse thread
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Macdell
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 06 Sep 2014 at 8:53pm |
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Hi just checking to see if you found the correct bolt to take the drums off? I have a M65 I attempting to replace the brakes on also. I haven't been able to find a shop manual to change the brake either. I did get a 1" x8 thread to start with 1 or 2 turns then it locks up . I think the threads are different but I don't have another way to check it either. Any info on how to service these brakes would greatly be appreciated.
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akmountainman
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Posted: 07 Sep 2014 at 3:49am |
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I did successfully complete a wheel removal and brake removal, 1" coarse thread, they spun in by hand before bottoming out. the shoes were shredded, and I needed to finish up some work before the ground freezes, so I just cleared out all the brake parts, re-installed the backing plate and then re-assembled the wheel.
I just received my copy of the service manual from ssb tractor, I don't know how different the M65 is from my DD, maybe someone else does?
if it's similar I'd be happy to scan and email/upload the pages from my manual
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DonBC
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Posted: 07 Sep 2014 at 12:33pm |
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From an article in Construction Equipment in 2007 on the Allis Chalmers compact grader, in 1971 the D and DD graders were superseded by the M65. The article says the main changes were an increase in weight and power and the introduction of hydrostatic steering and new sheet metal. This suggests that mechanically there were little or no changes.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 07 Sep 2014 at 5:42pm |
 Macdell wrote:
Hi just checking to see if you found the correct bolt to take the drums off? I have a M65 I attempting to replace the brakes on also. I haven't been able to find a shop manual to change the brake either. I did get a 1" x8 thread to start with 1 or 2 turns then it locks up . I think the threads are different but I don't have another way to check it either. Any info on how to service these brakes would greatly be appreciated.
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Stick a light into the hole, and see if there is rust, or a foreign object in the hole. If not, stick a re-threading tap into the hole to clean it out. Mud, rocks, and other stuff has a way of finding a way into any open bolt hole around here...
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Macdell
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Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 5:08pm |
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Thanks for all the help. I was finally able to get the 1"- 8 thread bold to screw in . It was all corroded in there ,I cleaned it up and it went in good. I used a piece of 2" heavy wall tube with 2 holes drilled in it. Then shimmed it up to the spindle, the two 1" bolts pulled it right off. Thanks to you all.
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akmountainman
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Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 2:10am |
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sorry I haven't had a chance to scan those pages yet for the brakes, do you still want / need them, I might need an email address, don't see any way to upload something here
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Macdell
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 7:27pm |
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Thank you very much, I don't think I need them at this point. Once I got them off everything was pretty self explanatory( replace everything) lol. I got a master cylinder at ( industrial brake and clutch.com),wheel cylinders at Napa,brake hardware from Kevin one of the supplier on this form.
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