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jaredgoforth 
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Joined: 02 May 2012
Location: inez, ky
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 Topic: AC CA questions ??
Posted: 14 May 2012 at 5:46pm |
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tractor drives great on level but after ive drove it around a little and you start goin up a hill it seems to slow down to a crawl, any ideas
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Wil M (NEIA)
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:12pm |
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Does it still have the hand clutch? If it does, I would bet that it is starting to slip.
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"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:15pm |
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yes it has the hand clutch, tractor does great on level but you get on an incline and it starts slowing down to a crawl but engine stile runs great
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:16pm |
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how would i go about checking that
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:22pm |
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Put the PTO in gear, put the tractor in 3rd and start driving. If you step on the brakes and the tractor and pto slow down, it's the engine clutch slipping. If the tractor slows down and PTO stays spinning at the same speed, it's the hand clutch.
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:30pm |
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ok thanks for the advice ill try that tomorow and post the out come thanks again
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:37pm |
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also if the hand clutch needs replaced would it be the same clutch kit as the foot clutch??
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:41pm |
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No, the hand clutch is built into the right brake drum and is different than about anything ever designed for a clutch. A lot of the CA's at some time or another had the hand clutch bolted together so it wouldn't slip. If you do that though, you loose the "live" hydraulics and pto capabilities of the tractor.
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 9:50pm |
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is their a way to fix it to keep the hand clutch ?
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 10:13pm |
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That clutch is fairly easy to rebuild. The hard part is getting it out.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 10:13pm |
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Yes many have done it. Sometimes things come apart hard and there is a trick of grinding off some cast iron to get them to work right.
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 14 May 2012 at 10:14pm |
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how would i go about getting it out?
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Wil M (NEIA)
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Posted: 15 May 2012 at 11:25am |
Here is a link to discussions on the removal of the CA hand clutch. There is a link within this discussion on rebuilding the Hand Clutch but I can not get the link to come up. You have to remove the final drive and pull the clutch out. Not hard. You will need a service manual to help you. Wil Here is another link to a discusson on the hand clutch removal of a CA
Edited by Wil M (NEIA) - 15 May 2012 at 11:29am
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"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs
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jaredgoforth
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Posted: 15 May 2012 at 11:31am |
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thanks i drove it today and did as yall said with pto in gear in 3rd gear, when i stepped on brake tractor slowed but pto seemed to keep goin
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Wil M (NEIA)
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Posted: 15 May 2012 at 2:56pm |
I would attempt to adjust it first before tearing into it, but I bet you need to rebuild the hand clutch. The owners manual and service manual tells how to adjust them. My hand clutch got to the point that the tractor would barely even move with the tractor in gear before I tore it appart and rebuilt it.
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"Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 16 May 2012 at 7:22am |
Mr Tucker's advice on determining whether the slippage is in the engine clutch or hand clutch is right on. There is not much "adjustment" one can do on a worn hand clutch. The cog that can be spun thru the top window is to adjust the clearance between the clutch actuator and the clutch. It may be that the actuator adjustment was tightened too much thereby "opening" the clutch; if so, backing it off may solve the problem. One needs to pull the final to access the hand clutch. My biggest concern is supporting the tractor during the removal/assembly process. I block up under the differential, chock the front tires and use an engine hoist to pull/support the final. The clutch is held onto the outer pinion shaft by a half moon key and friction; no set screws or retainer rings. I use long pry bars thru the access windows (and sometimes penetrating oil and/or a long chisel to act as a wedge is needed for the more difficult ones). Patience, persistance, and panther pi$$ will get it done. One should replace the inner pinion shaft seal and thoroughly inspect the actuator before reassembly (especially the bearing); may also be a good time to replace the brake linings also. Friction material, rivets, balls and springs for the clutch are still available from AGCO (altho I like the friction material that ChrisCT provides better than that from AGCO). And yes, one should remove some metal from the clutch ears when rebuilding it; however, I recommend the amount be determined by the clearance between the friction material when completed (I have one that someone took too much off and the clutch could not be opened). I can email you two PDF files with pictures on rebuilding the clutch; pm me your email address if you want them.
Edited by GregLawlerMinn - 16 May 2012 at 7:24am
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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