Roto Baler question

I have been looking for a baler for our small hobby farm.  We have 6 acres of hay ground and have been splitting bales with a neighbor for his fuel and time baling small squares.  He is 75 now and stated last year that this year would be the last year he wanted to do it and I should start looking for my own equipment.  I bought a wd45 last fall that is in really good shape and my goal this year is to find a baler and a rake, and next year get a haybine.  I have recently seen a few roto balers and just can't shake the thought that they would work perfect for our setup.  I know that they are old but from what I've seen they are pretty simple and aside from the stop and go would be kind of neat.  But for every roto baler that you see there is 50 small square balers.  So I guess would it be stupid for us to get a roto baler and go that route or is it much less of a headache to just bale squares?  Thanks for any info. 

I run a few hundred bales a year with mine.  Its the only baler I use in my small beef operation.  I like it.  I like feeding the bales and I really like bedding straw that has been Roto baled.  I say go for it and be different.

There are alot of them in my area. I have one I would sell and know where there is a late one that has been in shed until the last few years.  MACK

Hey Mack: where are you at with all these roto balers around?  I've only seen 4 of 5 of them around here and all but 2 have been completely shot.  I am hoping to find one because I think that might be the only way to go. 

Well I just got done checking out that roto baler that I saw setting in a field.  I appears to be in good shape with the exception of the belts.  The bottom belts are pretty much shot, and the top ones don't look too bad but if it's not a huge job I'd rather just change all of them and be done with it.  I didn't have a camera with me otherwise I'd have taken a few pictures to show you guys.  All of the sprockets look good and the only thing that looked rough was there is a rubber looking bushing type thing on the outside of the pickup ramp on the left side that looks pretty bad.  With my horrible description does anybody know what that would be and can a guy find the part to replace it?  Also is the belt changing something that I could do myself or would I have to take it to the dealer?  He said he needed to get $275 out of it because he bought it at an auction 2 years ago and that's what he has in it.  Does that seem like a good price?  Also would it be dumb to grease it up and have him hook up to it and make sure everything goes?  Thanks for the help fellas!

So now I have another question.  That roto baler that is $275 and needs new belts has my attention but belts are around $500 and labor to change the belts is $700.  I would have $1500 into the baler assuming nothing else is wrong with it.  I would like to get the roto baler but from what I've seen I could get a really nice small square baler for $1500, but I'm sure I'd have to stick some money into that also.  But enough rambling my question is how long can a guy expect new belts on a baler to last?  And also is it possible for a guy with a little mechanical know how and determination to change the belts by himself?  I also would have to come up with a splicing tool so I know that would be another cost.  Thanks for any info fellas!

I wish you lived closer to me, I would change the belts for alot less than 700. Back in the 60s and 70s another guy and I could change a set of belts in 1 hr. Back then I would go out after work and change a set for $20.  MACK

I worked with our mechanic to replace one belt. Took about an hour. Wish I could remember what he did. Belts were endless.
Did not seem that hard. Worked from left side facing to rear
Maunal would help.
Good Luck!
Bill Long

Edited by Bill Long - 19 Apr 2012 at 2:22pm

Well I'm still milling around the idea of this roto baler.  I stopped and looked at it again last week and noticed a spring that was connected to the twine feed deal (I know technical term) that was broken.  I saw online that I could get a spring kit and new twine knife for like $57.  That's not soo bad and I would be able to do the belts by myself so I'm just wondering if there's anything else that I should be looking for before I pull the trigger.  The sprockets look good and the chains look alright also.  Were these things bulletproof or is there something else that I should look at that would be a deal breaker if it's broken.  Thanks!

Can someone advise me on the installation of the upper belts on the Allis Roto-baler?  How do you get enough slack to hook the splices together?  I have unhooked the discharge springs and opened the latches so the lower belts are loose as it would be to discharge a bale but the upper belts are still relatively tight.   I have tried a ratcheted load strap between the upper and bottom rollers (of the upper group) but that didn't seem to help much.  Do i need to raise the bottom roller of the bottom belts, the one with the gear in the gear rack?  I may try that next.  Any advise/help would sure be appreciated.   Dale

I would not advise using spliced belts. They are good to get by with until endless can be put on.

To loosen top belts, trip it open like you have, loosen brake on right side, use a handyman jack under lower roller and jack it up.    MACK

Where do you get endless belts?