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Redwood 
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Joined: 16 Jan 2012
Location: Ontario
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 Topic: WC rebuild started...slowly
Posted: 16 Apr 2012 at 8:22pm |
Here is the first restored sub assembly. looks like there is a tractor under that rust and dirt. Once cleaned up only the boot, shifter knob and reverse spring to replace. Works smooth.
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Don(MI)
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Location: Michigan
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Posted: 16 Apr 2012 at 8:41pm |
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Lookin good. Those gear shift towers on WCs/RCs are notorious for wearing out with alotta slop. Replacing the pin with the square head, and building up the slot in the gear shift itself, usually does the trick.
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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Jim Lindemood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 7:06am |
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Ya gotta start some where -- great. Keep posting pictures of your progress.
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hamman01
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 11:55am |
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I am doing the same thing right now Redwood. I just got the gears freedup in the trans and the tower is the next project. Looks good.
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Redwood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 12:13pm |
It went pretty easy, hardest part was putting the ball bearings and springs and only because three hands would have made it quicker. If you have any questions let me know. I'm no expert but it is fresh in my mind.
I'm going the other direction the gears are next on my list...not sure if my wife will be happy when the tranny finds its way into the family room lol.
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Redwood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 12:29pm |
On a side note
Does anyone have the material specs for the gaskets (cork/parper). Any advise or tips in the products. Since these won't be seen, functional is overriding authentic.I'm looking at making my own and I want to get the appropriate material. I have a computer cutter to cut them or atleast try.
What is the best paper material for those that are paper, like the transmission? or is there a better material now.
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hamman01
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 1:36pm |
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I got the gears free from rust and they are good to go. I'm not taking the trans apart, just going to give it a good claenaing and fresh oil. It looked like the tower gasket was paper. I am going to use cork this time with a small bead of permatex. The lower one is cork. I don't know if Steiner Tractor Parts carries the gaskets or not. Was it hard to rebuild the reversr lever and spring? Thanks.Roger
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Redwood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 2:40pm |
The reverse lever is very simple.
How ever if you need to pull the vertical rod you will have to pull atleast one of the shafts for the forks to reattach the spring on the inside, unless you get really creative. In my case I took the entire thing apart not only to clean it properly but to inspect all of the parts.
If you find the vertical rod is free and pulls easily from the top and you don't want to pull the rest apart be sure to tape it to the shifter or it will fall in far enough for the spring to fall off...back to more tear down.
Easy enough to tear the whole thing down, just becareful with the ball bearings and internal pins as once you start pulling them apart, if you're not careful you could loose them.
I'll check tonight to see if I took a picture of the disassembled parts.
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hamman01
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 6:49pm |
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Did you have to remove the plugs on either end of the tower? I have the rods soaking in MMO right now. I hope I don't have to take them apart. I got the geras cleaned up tonight and they look really good. I used Simple green and a stiff parts brush. The rust was mostly superficial and hadn't pitted anything yet. I then sprayed it down eith PB Blaster and re- brushed it again. I removed the plug and plate from the bottom of the trans and there certainly wasn't very much oil in the trans. I am going to make new gaskets for the tower and the bottom plate before I put them back on. I will brush the tower and rod once I have it cleaned and prime it. Thanks. Roger.
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Redwood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 8:01pm |
sounds like a similar story. The oil had just about draind out and as you can see in the picture the rust had just started on the inside but everything was still soaked in oil, saving any damage. I did take the plugs out of the end. the one in the side I left. Made putting the pins in a little harder but it was easier then taking out the side explansion plug as there is no easy way to knock out that one. As for the ones in the end, the open end I used a rod the I hammered it, and it popped out easy, the other end I used the rods in the tower to knock them out. once the rods pop over the notch and ball bearings they move easy. again just be careful as there is a fair bit of pressure on the ball, once the rod moves past the end of the ball it shoots out, you need to have the hole blocked ( I used my hand). the spring clip in the top of the tower can be screwed out by using a nail set hammer and screw driver. by using the notch in the top pry the spring clip one end up. Then use the nailset to spin the spring.
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hamman01
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 9:03pm |
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Thanks Redwood, that makes it a little simpler for me. I was curious how to get the plugs out. Did you have to buy new plugs or can you use the old? Are you going to pu the safety wire back in? I think to keep it as original as possible I am going to rewire them. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Roger.
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Redwood
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Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 9:19pm |
the plugs popped out very easily and undammaged. I have not put them back in but a little sanding to smooth the edge and a 5/8" wood dowel about 4" long and a hammer it does not look like an issue at all. I'm putting the wire back as well, not only is it original, it was put there for a reason. and the pictures helped as my memory aint what it used to be, and the agco parts book online gives a good schematic as well.
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hamman01
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Posted: 19 Apr 2012 at 1:40pm |
Well after soaking the tower in MMO for a couple of days I went out this morning and took some crocas cloth and cleaned the rods where they move and tried them. They moved freely. They fell very crisp and tight. I finished cleaning the old oil. I am going to cut new gaskets from manila folders and replace the bottom plate and fill the case with trans oil and put the tower back on. It should work fine. Will know in a few days. Thanks. Roger.
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Redwood
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Posted: 19 Apr 2012 at 2:10pm |
Sounds like everything went smoothly. Not too much to these old machines.
I'm restoring/preping for paint all the parts so it will be a while before mine goes back in.
Glad it went well
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hamman01
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Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 10:47am |
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After trying to get it to work properly it doesn't. I can't get the reverse lever to work. Seems like it may be froze up. Maybe the spring is broken. Do you have to take the rods out to get the shift lever out? If so I need to get a clean spot and do this. If I just need to move the rods out of the way which way do I push them to? Toward the shift pattern side or the front? Thanks for letting me hijack this thread. Roger
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Redwood
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Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 12:43pm |
Before you take it al apart take the vertical rod of the triangle lever piece and see how it moves. and if it springs back. If it doesn't then you do have to take it apart. Atleast one of the rods need to come out to be able to work with the pieces inside the tower. Once you take the set screws out of the fork and level pieces it shouldn't matter which way you push the rod out. Keep in mind, each rod has one spring and one ball bearing in the central bridge in the cast. When you push the rod out the spring will shoot the ball out of that hole. Don't get hit or loose the bearing. There is also two bullet bearings between the rods and a tiny pin. The shifter I believe should be in nuetral so the rod will move freely past the bullet pins. I did not have to tap too hard to slip the notch in the rod over the bearing ( think of the amount of force to put the shifter into gear). Go to agco parts book and look up WC agcoallis and look for the picture there. it has a good visual for you. Though I might take some to reply I'll check back to see if you have any questions.
Hmm just a quick update... if you send the long bit of the rod up towards the central bridge piece in the cast you won't have to take the ball bearings out. it will give you enough room to work. But if you do it this way be careful not to let them slide out while you're working on it.
Edited by Redwood - 22 Apr 2012 at 12:46pm
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hamman01
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Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 1:56pm |
I tried finding the online book but can't locate it. I will try removing the center rod only and see what happens. Thanks. We are taking my son's tractor to a Allis dealer in the morning and I might just take it along to see if they can help me. Thanks Again. Roger.
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JoeM(GA)
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Posted: 22 Apr 2012 at 2:19pm |
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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hamman01
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Posted: 23 Apr 2012 at 7:58am |
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Thanks Joe that will help. After taking a crank to the machine shop today and son's WC to the mechanic I am going to tear into this when we get back. Thanks again. Roger
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