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D17 Wheel Eccentrics Slipping |
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AllisUpstate
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Joined: 06 May 2011 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1261 |
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Topic: D17 Wheel Eccentrics SlippingPosted: 10 Apr 2012 at 6:39am |
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My D17 IV has one wheel with the single bolt type clamp, and the other with the older 2 bolt eccentrics. I had started a thread a few weeks ago thinking the single bolt side was making noise, however, it turns out it is actually the eccentric-style side that is slipping and clunking. My only defense is I am deaf in one ear and 1/2 deaf in the other, so every sound I hear always semms like it is coming from the side of my good ear. Drives my wife nuts. Anyway, it turns out the eccentrics aren't gripping, and that wheel is moving and clunking within the stops.
All the eccentrics are free, and I made sure they were all fully tight, but they still slip on the guide rails. Is there a wear piece internally or something? If so, can I remove each eccentric assembly one at a time while at the top, without having to remove the entire wheel? They are not totally loose, but don't hold that great either. Also, will it hurt to just run them this way for a while, with the stop taking up most of the tractive force of the wheel? I'll be doing some plowing with the tractor soon, so they will be getting a full workout. |
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 7:08am |
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You will wear the rails out if not already. MACK
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AllisUpstate
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Joined: 06 May 2011 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1261 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 7:35am |
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Mack,
Thanks for the reply. So what would be the fix? New eccentrics? |
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5909 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 7:43am |
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I would disassemble all 4 eccentrics and make sure the little bar is not missing or broken.
Gary
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Matt MN
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Silver lake MN Points: 1491 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 7:54am |
Yes, I would do this, then also you can build them up a small amount with welding them, You will have to remove the entire wheel, and all 8 bolts holding the ecentrics on to remove them safely. Also you could advertise on here for the proper wheel center to match the other side, that would be the easy fix. the rim will work on either one. |
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Ted in NE-OH
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Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Austinburg OH Points: 1703 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 10:51am |
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You could also use shim stock between the bar and the rim.
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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AllisUpstate
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Joined: 06 May 2011 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1261 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 11:02am |
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Thanks for all of the excellent input on this. I like the idea of finding a new single bolt style center hub, and think I might have a line on one from a local salvage yard.
If not, I might try to pull the eccentrics and either weld them up, or put a small metal strip in to allow them to tighten. The rails seem to be fine with square edges and no wear at the contact points. This is a relatively recent problem, so I suppose everything was rusted up a bit before, but broke loose recently, so I am catching the problem early. One last thing, if I build up the eccentrics, can I safely remove them one at a time if they are at the top of the wheel, then replace each one, rotate the wheel and do the next, etc? |
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 11:28am |
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One last thing, if I build up the eccentrics, can I safely remove them one at a time if they are at the top of the wheel, then replace each one, rotate the wheel and do the next, etc? [/QUOTE] Probably the easiest is to spin the wheel all the way out, jack up the tractor, loosen all eccentrics, and then remove the bottom one, one at a time. |
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EricSWPA
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: PA Points: 292 |
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Posted: 10 Apr 2012 at 4:16pm |
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Id think if you did one at a time you would be ok
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AllisUpstate
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Joined: 06 May 2011 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1261 |
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Posted: 11 Apr 2012 at 8:30am |
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Again, thanks for all the help on this. I lucked out with Matt's suggestion of finding a single bolt style wheel. A nearby tractor salvage yard had one, with the clamps for $125.
Now I have another question, slightly off the original thread. While I have the chance, I will sandblast and paint the wheel and weights. Is there only a single "Allis Chalmers" cream color? This is for a D17 IV. Also, is there a good match of the cream color available at TSC? I can order some from various web sites, but was hoping to find something suitable at local stores, so I can change the wheel over and get it done with. Also, this will be more of a utility painting operation. I am still planning one day to do a full, quality paint job on the entire tractor, but for now, I will settle for something close for the replacement wheel. |
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5909 |
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Posted: 11 Apr 2012 at 4:23pm |
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I use this 'Recreational White'
It is a slightly Cream Coloured, and looks very good on the wheels. Gary |
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D-17_Dave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Posted: 11 Apr 2012 at 7:22pm |
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I know this won't cure a slipping issue but what made it start slipping would concern me. Is the stop bolt in place to ride against? |
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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AllisUpstate
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Joined: 06 May 2011 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1261 |
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Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 5:41am |
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D-17_Dave,
Yes, the stop bolts are in place. I assume it worked loose because the eccentrics were rusted up internally, then broke loose finally as I used the tractor (I only got it last summer, and it has had only moderate use). Now I have another minor problem. I found a single bolt center with clamps from a salvage yard, and after painting the center, will need to change out the tire. Problem is, the loader is on the D17, so I'm going to have to change everything out without access to any lifting. The tires are 18.4 and filled with ballast, so I would prefer that they not fall on top of me. I'm trying to come up with a plan to safely change out the center wheel without the risk of the tire falling over, and without access to a loader. Any suggestions from those who have done this before? |
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 10:00am |
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I've done a lot of them by hand and I ain't that big of a guy. The trick is to keep them upright, have something near to roll them to and lean them against. I also like to set the wheel all the way out before I remove it, you don't have to lean it as much to clear the hub that way. If for some reason it gets away from you just let it go....not worth getting hurt over!
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TimNearFortWorth
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Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 12:04pm |
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Lay out ALL of your current cam lock inserts against a new one; if they are worn, it will be very visible on the thickness at the center.
I have stashed a good number of the original assemblies I collected over the years and am amazed sometimes at just how thin the cam insert or locking pin body can be when I get them apart. I viewed a D17IV here in Texas about five years and walked away as the PAW's AND rim centers (both sides) were completely ruined and non-repairable. Fella had ran with badly worn cam locks for years, letting the play do alot of damage. Found spider cracks around the lug bolt holes on the rims also. An Anti-Seze type lube is your best friend when re-assembling and I will not run mine without the snap ring retainer on the back end of the every locking pin.
Smaller PAW jobs like the CA, D12 and even my D15II rims are layed out on the floor with the mounted tire and rim on blocks about 10-12". I use a 5 gallon bucket with equal 2x4's atop the bucket, that fit the rim center on the inside. Set the rim on the bucket/blocks (rim center is surprisingly lite) and align for the flange bolts. You can slide the assembled flange/lock assy. fairly easily on good rails and install the bolts by reaching underneath. I'm too old to try this with my D17 rim without a loader/hoist to lay down/pick up when I'm finished with it and will likely just do that standing as outlined above.
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Matt MN
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Silver lake MN Points: 1491 |
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Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 12:29pm |
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I have used Rustoleum "almond" color and it matches up pretty close.
As far as switching it out, Just jack up the tractor, remove wheel/tire using a cherry picker to hold it upright, switch out rim center, and reinstall. sounds easy huh?? but yes if you don't have a cherry picker or another loader available, try to remove it and keep it upright as much as you can, and roll it out of the way and lean it up against a building or something solid. Another idea? do you have a large enough tree close by? back the tractor below it and jack it up. You can maybe use a come-along to a branch to hold the tire from falling over? |
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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