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DennyS 
Bronze Level
Joined: 08 Feb 2012
Location: Savona,NY
Points: 26
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 Topic: Snaps Unsnaping with blade
Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 6:07pm |
Scraping gravel in driveway. Snaps opening and dropping one side of blade. Seems that arms are dropping and pushing snaps open. Blade caught grass when I was turning around and tractor almost felt like it was gonna roll. I'm thinking about removing snaps and hooking blade up direct to arms. Suggestions ?? I use blade for snow and I can't have it unhooking itself. It may have not been as scary as it seemed, but I didn't like it.
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Rfdeere
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Idaville, IN
Points: 3283
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 6:12pm |
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Are your springs on your lift latches good ? If they are old,rusty, or streched they may be weak and not holding correctly.
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Dave in il
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Manville Il
Points: 1748
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 7:39pm |
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My WD45 was unlatching from one side of the SC disc. I turned the coupler on the disk around and and relatched it and it stayed in. Not sure why, but it worked and if you turn it back around it pops out.
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AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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MBwcIll
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Joined: 03 Oct 2009
Location: Chapin Ill
Points: 175
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 7:50pm |
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We have had the same problem in the past. Replacing the springs on the upper latch solved one. The other was similar to Dave's comments. We ended up with an aftermarket SC blade. It's lift arms did not stay in the upper latch. By rotating the after market lift linkage on the blade 180 degrees, the latches stayed latched.
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Lester
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Joined: 08 Jan 2010
Location: Indiana
Points: 521
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 7:58pm |
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When you turn with a semi mounted disc, raise up on your lift arms some to keep weight on lift arms.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:01pm |
DO NOT remove the latches and bolt the lift arms solid. They are
supposed to release if the bell comes unhooked or something like this
can happen.  Now maybe the blade won't reach as far but the latches are there for a good reason. If they don't work, fix them or buy a new set and sell yours to somebody that will fix em.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 05 Apr 2012 at 9:24pm
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:07pm |
 DennyS wrote:
1.Seems that arms are dropping and pushing snaps open. Blade caught grass when I was turning around and tractor almost felt like it was gonna roll. I'm thinking about removing snaps and hooking blade up direct to arms. Suggestions ?? I use blade for snow and I can't have it unhooking itself. 2.It may have not been as scary as it seemed, but I didn't like it. |
1. The arms can't go down any further than the weight pulls them. 2. I bet it would be a lot scarier to have the blade smack you in the middle of your back and pin you against the steering Wheel. Just put new springs on them.
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Bolivar Boy
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Joined: 27 Dec 2011
Location: wooster, ohio
Points: 641
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:09pm |
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very sound advice mr. tucker. picture worth a thousand bad headaches or worse........
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DennyS
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Joined: 08 Feb 2012
Location: Savona,NY
Points: 26
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:01pm |
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Ok, Springs are not weak, Now that I think about some more, and see the picture, I guess I won't be hooking them up direct. Also the snap may have opened when I was backing down the driveway when the tractor died on me on the steepest part of the driveway again. I had to coast slowly backwards and the blade was down. Couldn't raise the blade cause tractor wouldn't start again until I coasted back down to a more gradual grade. It seems that the fuel tank must have at least a half tank or it will run out of fuel as soon as I start to climb the steepest part of the driveway. I'm still trying to figure out the personality of this 17. My old Massey would climb the driveway with a gallon of gas in it. If I put too much in this thing, the gas runs out of the gas gauge, which of course doesn't work. Also unlike the Massey I guess I can't just put the back blade down and not put the control into hold. If I leave control to down position the arms will drop under their own weight and take the load off the clips.
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Dave in il
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Manville Il
Points: 1748
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Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:41pm |
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AGCO has the gasket for your gas guage. Get one, then go to a local car repair shop and ask if they have a junk fuel pump/sending unit laying around, they're pretty common. If they do, get the urathane float off it. I've got two so far and the best part is they were free! Now remove the 4 screws holding your fuel gauge to the tank, pull out the guage and clean it up. Use your "new" float to replace the nonexistant cork float that was on the end of the gauge arm. Reinstall with the new gasket. In about 15 to 20 minutes you'll have fixed your leak and have a working fuel guage.
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AGCO My Allis Gleaner Company
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Jim Lindemood
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Dry Ridge, KY
Points: 2569
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Posted: 06 Apr 2012 at 7:49am |
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Charlie's picture says it all -- need those latches!!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 06 Apr 2012 at 9:04am |
DennyS wrote:
Couldn't raise the blade cause tractor wouldn't start again until I coasted back down to a more gradual grade. 1. It seems that the fuel tank must have at least a half tank or it will run out of fuel as soon as I start to climb the steepest part of the driveway. I'm still trying to figure out the personality of this 17. 2.If I put too much in this thing, the gas runs out of the gas gauge, which of course doesn't work. Also unlike the Massey I guess I can't just put the back blade down and not put the control into hold. 3.If I leave control to down position the arms will drop under their own weight and take the load off the clips. |
1. Sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem. Do you have a rubber hose for a line that might be a bit too long and have a droop in it? Is the tank clear of any obstructions? Maybe the float isn't set high enough but that could cause a problem on the level if the governor is opened up for long. 2. Like said in the earlier reply, fix the gasket. Old Standard Auto Parts has a neoprene float for a model A Ford that is a perfect replacement for the gas gauge float and costs $4. They have a web site and you can find a toll free number there. 3. The springs should be heavy enough that the arms will go back up with the blade when ground level changes, lifting the blade. Cylinder gland packings should be tight enough to prevent the arms from going down without some down force on them. With that said, I have been known to let little things go too long before attempting to fix them. 
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JimD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mounds, OK
Points: 2116
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Posted: 06 Apr 2012 at 9:09am |
My D15 leaked gas around the gauge for years and I put up with it. Then one day I finally decided to tackle it. Pulled it off, and studied the gasket. I put a neoprene sediment bowl gasket on there, and can now fill my tank. Fit almost perfectly! JimD
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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DennyS
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Joined: 08 Feb 2012
Location: Savona,NY
Points: 26
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Posted: 06 Apr 2012 at 1:50pm |
The float of course is missing, but the magnets that move the gauge are gone too. There does not seem to be a connection between the rod that the float turns and the gauge. If it was just the float I woulda fixed it. The fuel line is solid,no rubber. I set the float level when I had the carb off and cleaned it all out. The answe is simple, I need to keep the fuel level to at least 1/4. I put 3 gallons in it today and it climbs fine. This is a long driveway increasingly steep at the top 1/3 of it. Nobody comes to visit in the winter unless they have good 4 wheel drive. And sometimes that isn't enough. When there's ice, it means get a running start,keep the right wheels in the ditch and go for it. 
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 06 Apr 2012 at 4:04pm |
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From here your hill doesn't look steep enough that you have to fill your gas tank to a quarter full.
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DennyS
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Joined: 08 Feb 2012
Location: Savona,NY
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Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 7:43pm |
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I took a good look at the fuel delivery from the sediment bowl. The Fuel inlet is on the front corner of the tank. Fuel line to carb is steel line which looks original, it is a small line looks like the size to feed an oil pressure gauge. It's a long way to gravity feed the carb going up a steep hill. Driveway at the top is alot steeper than photo shows. I guess it makes more sense to just insure enough gas in the tank. Figured out today that traction booster control can be used as a draft control just like a ferguson system. I can limit how far blade drops so it won't be pushing open the clips.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8613
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Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 9:57pm |
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worn latches can come open easily. if you study the geometry of the closing you'll notice the top piece closes more from the back than the top. anyway,they should not be easily opened from an implement pushing on them. let the pin holes get worn and it's a differet story. i've worked some over with a welder and file that wouldn't stay closed and that took care of it. no new springs needed. I'd bet your top half has more of a cresent shape than a round to it
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