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captaindana 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
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 Topic: Factory either kits
Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 5:51am |
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Does everyone use theirs to aid in starting? Anyone have one for an XT for sale? captaindana@msn.com Thanks!
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:32am |
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I installed one on the 7050 and use it once in a great while and it works good. Got it at the local CaseIH dealer. I think they are all about the same in that vintage. I went with the little copper tubing to the manifold but they also had plastic. Eventually I'll probably put one on the 190 too.
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Orange Blood
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Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4053
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:35am |
We don't have the factory units installed, except on the 7000 series tractors, but the aftermarket ones, which look the same are installed on the 190, and 220, and seems like after a couple years they quit working. There is also a bit of a delay in getting the either through the line, vs. a direct shot into the intake, so you crank longer, and it always seems like the batteries are a little weak. I also don't like the kits, because I try really hard, not to over either an engine, and just use a very light drizzle almost, just to give it a few extra RPMs while cranking, not to get it to knock hard, and the either kits don't let you do this.
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Lonn
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Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:39am |
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To avoid the knocking just crank the engine until you see smoke then hit the either button while still cranking. Anyhow, it works well for me.
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Mike_426
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Joined: 07 Dec 2011
Location: Ypsilanti Mi
Points: 138
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 6:43am |
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I use the heater on my 200 hold it on about 60 seconds ( what the manual recomends ) I even use it in the summer fires right up but without it there's a whole lotta crankin goin on. I'm not a big fan of ether ... Mike
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G, 200, 8050 mfd, D17, 195 chainsaw, c-wide front
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bill2260
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Joined: 30 Mar 2010
Points: 215
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:01am |
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Future son in law bought a massy that needed overhaul. Had either kit on it and top of pistons looked like they had been attacked by a black smith hammer. Bill
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 33503
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:15am |
I put a Kold-Ban company unit on my 180, minimal adds of ether, just enough to get kick started, they have a web store and will exchange the cylinders. Pricey for the hazmat fee to ship but well worth the cost to get a quick start. Mine is piped into the intake at the old restriction indicator port.
www.koldban.com
Edited by DMiller - 15 Mar 2012 at 7:16am
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DonDittmar
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: MIllersburg, MI
Points: 2513
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:42am |
Ether, used properly, will not harm an engine.
Used properly it just burns with the diesel fuel, although much faster.
Been using ether all my life on numerous vehicles and never had one become "addicted"
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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darrel in ND
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Hebron, ND
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 8:03am |
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Captain, does your tractor have a manifold heater on it that works? If so, it should be just about all the cold starting aid that you would need. If you do choose to go with an ether kit, make certain that you do not use ether and the manifold heater together! Darrel
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Butch(OH)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lucerne Ohio
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 8:04am |
Something is wrong if the crank times are longer with a manifold mounted kit vs drawing the starting fluid all the way from the pre-cleaner when it goes in right beside the ports?
Our 220 has the kit but starts without it down to about 45 degrees. Below that all it takes is hit and release the button as fast as you can do it and the engine starts in about 2 revolutions. If its really cold out another quick hit keeps it going on all 6 instead of blubbering along on a few. Arguments about it's usage will continue forever but I am of the opinion that PROPER usage harms not a thing, as a matter of fact it saves starters and batteries over cranking the engine forever to start without it. I have witnessed engines slowly (or quickly) destroyed with either too and understand where the other thinking comes from. When I see people spray it into the air cleaner continuously while cranking until the engine fires and the engine fires and runs away for a couple seconds hammering like heck because the entire intake system is full of either,, DUH!!! Like who in their right mind thinks that is good for an engine!! Properly done you would give it a shot and wait for it to be drawn from point A to Point B and it will fire and run Off my box, for now anyway 
Edited by Butch(OH) - 15 Mar 2012 at 8:08am
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Orange Blood
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Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:29am |
 Butch(OH) wrote:
Something is wrong if the crank times are longer with a manifold mounted kit vs drawing the starting fluid all the way from the pre-cleaner when it goes in right beside the ports?
Our 220 has the kit but starts without it down to about 45 degrees. Below that all it takes is hit and release the button as fast as you can do it and the engine starts in about 2 revolutions. If its really cold out another quick hit keeps it going on all 6 instead of blubbering along on a few. Arguments about it's usage will continue forever but I am of the opinion that PROPER usage harms not a thing, as a matter of fact it saves starters and batteries over cranking the engine forever to start without it. I have witnessed engines slowly (or quickly) destroyed with either too and understand where the other thinking comes from. When I see people spray it into the air cleaner continuously while cranking until the engine fires and the engine fires and runs away for a couple seconds hammering like heck because the entire intake system is full of either,, DUH!!! Like who in their right mind thinks that is good for an engine!! Properly done you would give it a shot and wait for it to be drawn from point A to Point B and it will fire and run Off my box, for now anyway |
Hey Butch, I should have been more clear, I am talking about the port directly on the intake manifold, on the side of the head. You are correct about getting either through from the air cleaner. In fact the port I use, requires me to pull the either kit pipe port out, since it uses the port on the side of the intake.
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Butch(OH)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lucerne Ohio
Points: 3837
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:43am |
Orange Blood wrote:
Hey Butch, I should have been more clear, I am talking about the port directly on the intake manifold, on the side of the head. You are correct about getting either through from the air cleaner. In fact the port I use, requires me to pull the either kit pipe port out, since it uses the port on the side of the intake. |
Oh OK, On our 220 there is a 1/8" pipe threaded port just behind the center of the manifold and that's where I plumbed the kit to. For me the worse thing about the kits is the small can and you don't know when it is getting low until it quits working. Of course the spare can I had purchased and thrown in the tool box always gets carted off somewhere else and used,, 
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 9:49am |
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I use just a whiff on my D17D when it's below 40. When I say whiff, it's just that, a whiff. I crank it a bit so it's making good smoke first. Then I take the intake plug out and stick the button on the can against the threads and just tap the bottom of the can, then quickly put the plug back. That gives it maybe a 1/2 second shot. Unless it's really cold, it lights right up. Using ether correctly doesn't do damage. I'd rather be sparing on the ether and crank more.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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BobHnwO
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Location: Jenera Ohio
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 10:31am |
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Always make sure your gettin plenty smoke before you hit the ether button.
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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stray
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Location: Tipton, Missour
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 7:05pm |
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One thing to keep in mind either shouldn't be used in place of good batteries. The biggest secret starting a desiel engine is good cranking speed.
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1969 190XT series 3
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captaindana
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Location: Fort Plain, NY
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Posted: 15 Mar 2012 at 8:20pm |
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Mine had a working manifold heater which I unhooked because of using starting fluid. We'll see as time goes on if the starting gets better, worse or same. It sure seems to run smooth but of course I havn't pulled anything with it yet. But I'd like to install a kit anyways. Thanks, Dana
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